GE top freezer refrigerator automatic ice cube maker leaks water into the freezer, and eventually on the floor. Water seems to be coming from the area that fill up to make more ice cubes.

Tube may be a ice maker supply line. You can replace it at any home depote

If there is an ice maker in the freezer, look to see if the water is coming from there. If it is then replace the solenoid valve where the water comes into the back of the refrigerator.

first replace the water valve

you have a broken line at the solenoid valve

Check the ice maker to see if there are ice cubes in the ice maker. If so, there is a problem with the ice maker heater and / or motor. You may be able to rebuild the ice maker by replacing defective parts, but it might be easier to replace it as a whole unit instead. If there is no ice present, it is likely a problem with the ice maker water lines / solenoid.

There are usually two solenoid valves and tubing systems for these types of fridges. One actuates on demand for water whenever requested, and the other operates automatically to make ice cubes until the ice cube reservoir is full.

Carefully push/pull the fridge away from the wall.

Unplug the fridge from the outlet.

Shut off the water supply to the fridge.

Remove access cover (usually the on the bottom) from the back of the fridge. Follow the tube that comes from the top of the fridge (for the ice maker) down to the bottom of the fridge.

Inspect visually for sources of the leak on tubing and related parts. Carefully check by hand for leaks in areas not readily visible - including the back sides of all the tubing, too. There may be sharp edges that can cut if not paying attention. If a leak is found where the tubing connects to other parts, you may be able to simply remove the tube and cut it back an inch or so if there is enough slack.

It may require that some special fittings and parts be obtained to reconnect and some compression type parts are designed for single use. If this is the case, gather the parts and bring them to a local hardware store for assistance obtaining replacements.

If a solenoid valve is found to be the culprit, due to a crack, etc. a trip to an appliance parts store will be required - unless able to purchase online. Part prices can vary widely , depending on the source.

Once replacement parts have been secured, reconnect after disconnecting power & water supply lines. When satisfied with the installation, reconnect power and water lines and test.

Carefully slide the fridge back into position - taking care to not crush the power or water lines.

If it overfills and drips, look for an adjustment behind the plastic endcover with a +/- on it. - is less water.

If it continuously drips, replace the water inlet valve on the back where the house water supply comes in.
The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze diverting the water. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

the problem is an unlevel icemaker to prove this do you see little droplets of water freezing from the icemaker or a remote possibilty is do you have to an R/O system and have you change the filter if unit has one.

The water inlet valve may be staying open. You can swap the wires on the dual water inlet valve and disconnect the water line at the valve which goes to the ice maker. When you try the water dispenser the water will come out there. When you stop the water dispenser, if the water at the valve doesn't stop, the valve isn't closing so you'll need to replace it. If it does stop after trying it several times then the problem is with the ice maker.



The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

Normally, when the temp of the icemaker gets to about 14 degrees F, the icemaker goes into the harvest mode, turning on the mold heater and attempting to eject the cubes. When the heater has warmed the mold sufficiently to release the cubes, the ejector can continue and push out the cubes, then the icemaker fills with fresh water to beging to make a batch of ice again. Manually starting the cycle as you have done only allows the cycle to start without the temp sensor seeing the 14 degrees. The mold heating generally takes a couple minutes. If your mold heater or the temp sensor are not working, you will have to replace the icemaker, as they are not available as a repair parts.

The ice maker has a float or full detection device that shuts the water off when trays are full. If you are sure this is where the water is coming from, then that's it.