Correct wiring for delta wired motor

Control: L1-SS-P-O-OL-OL-M-L2 In series, L1 is line 1, SS is start/stop switch, P is pressure switch, O is oil switch, OL is overload contact, M is magnetic coil (solenoid), L2 is line 2.
The voltage of M must be rated for the control voltage, across the line voltage (240V) or of a control transformer voltage, e.g. 240v/24v. A control voltage would be wired across the line, to L1 and L2.
Power: L1-T1-OL-M1, L2-T2-OL-M2. Line one to Line 1 on contactor, T1 on contactor jumpered to OL (overload heater) and out the overload heater terminal M1 to the motor terminal 1. Same for line 2, Line 2 to L2 on contactor, T2 on contactor jumpered to OL (overload heater) and out the heater overload terminal to M2 motor terminal.
The heater overload relays needs to be chosen by the motor full load current, a chart is given with a motor starter on selecting heater size. If no chart is available, go 115% of the motor FLA (full load amps) to select a heater size. E.G. 25 FLA motor at 115% is 28.75a. Sorry, no schematic available now, draw your own from this info. If using 3 phase, add the third line as duplicating one other line1 or line 2

1) When oven turns ON, Power flows between the timer and the oven.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-pin-timers.html

2) For example the oven might be connected to pins 8 and 1.
Connect a light bulb to terminals 8 and 1.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/10-pin-wiring-350.jpg

3) Since the H3CR timer is rated max 16 amps, I suspect the timer controls a contactor and is not directly attached to heavy oven wires.
So if max amp load on timer is 16 amps, then it is safe to add light bulb wire without line fuse between timer and light.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Fuseholder.html

4) Add comment and say what you are doing.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hello, you need to run 18 gauge thermostat wire from the Y and C terminals on the control board to each low voltage terminal on the outdoor contactor side terminals. Best way is th run it along the suction line and support it with wire ties. The high voltage wires will run from the disconnect box on the outside to the high voltage terminals on the contactor coil. The high voltage wires will be run in liquid tight conduit.

Following page has Dayton timer wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Dayton-Off-Delay-Timer.html

Terminals 6 and 7 are wired with 120Volt power as shown.
The push button gives momentary impulse of electricity to timer.
Timer activates when impulse of electricity ends.
Timer activation turns Load ON and begins countdown.
When countdown expires, timer turns Load OFF.

Terminal 2 is 125V Hot from breaker.
Terminal 3 is Neutral.

Terminal 1 goes to Load.
Load cannot exceed 1 amp.
So Dayton timer can only control single 100 watt light bulb, or it can control 120Volt coil on contactor.
Contactor turns on Load with any voltage: 120, 240, 277, etc or 3 phase contactor.


Suggest busman in-line 1 amp fuse between terminal 1 and Load to protect timer.

Hi, the new motor takes its own capacitor to run it. This is what the 2- brown wires are for, one will have a white stripe. You will need to but a seperate run capacitor for this motor, a 5 uf, 7.5, or what ever it calls for. they should have told you when you bought the motor. It will have to spade connectors on it where the brown wires connect alone. Use the dual capacitor if that is what you have for the other 220 volt wires.Black and purple will be your 2 hot wires.You can connect either one to the old capacitor on the fan terminal and the other to the load side of the contactor, so when the contactor closes it will energize the motor.Or, take both the black and the purple wires and to the load side ( outlet side ) of the contactor, connect one to one side and the other to the other side. The line side is where your 2 hot wires that connect to the contactor from the incoming wires from the electrical box, you want to be on the other end. I would connect the black to the contactor load side and purple to the old capacitor as long as the old wiring is still on it as it has to be fed by a hot wire from the contactor. Each wire, blk, and purple has to have 120 volts to each one and you can get this a couple of ways. The contactor has several terminals that are not used and if you wire them on the outlet side, they will only be energized when the contactor is closed on a call from the stat, very easy to do. You will have to get a coulple of crimp on connectors to put on the ends of the wires, but the brown ones should already have them for this capacitor. Do not try to put the brown wires on the old run capacitor as you will burn out the new motor! Go get the small run cap for these 2 wires for about $10. I know that you can do this wiring change just remember the blk is hot 120, and purple is hot 120, = 240.volts. If you have removed all of the wires from the old capacitor, then use the contactor to connect to. The compressor wires must stay on the old run cap on the hermetic side and this old cap. must be fed by a hot wire from the contactor to the common terminal, that is marked with a C..If you look at the new motor diagram, it will show you also. Please dont forget to rate me as I know you will be kind, and I will check in on you to see how you are doing. Get this capacitor and it will run. This is a must!! Please keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

The tan/white wire can be insulated/capped and not used. Use and ohmmeter to take a resistance reading between the tan/white wire and L1 & L2. There will be no resistance between the tan/white wire and one of the others. This will be the common wire. Connect it to one side of the contactor. Connect the tan wire to the fan terminal on the contactor and the other wire to the common terminal on the capacitor (that is if you have a 3 terminal capacitor, if you have a 2 terminal capacitor connect tan to one side and the other wire to the other). Then connect the other side of the contactor to the common terminal on the capacitor (on a 2 terminal capacitor connect the contactor to the side that doesn't have the tan wire on it).

Angel Eyes can be fitted to any motor vehicle!
Having not fitted these specific lamps before, the general idea is as follows:

Spot lights come with a +Ve terminal for the power & a -Ve for the ground (earth) and a possibly another wire for the angel eye itself.
You need to confirm if there is an in built relay already within the spot light unit which makes things more complicated.

Generally - standard spot lights:
To connect to a vehicle , you must introduce an in-line fuse + a relay to handle the load of running the two lamps. The relay has four terminals, 1) trigger terminal directly to the Main beam wire of your headlamp (white), 2) +Ve directly from the main power to the engine bay fuse box (red), 3) Earth directly to the ground of the vehicle or battery (black), 4) Power to your lamps (red or yellow or white).
Above is only a guide, you can assume two wires will certainly be power to the bulb and earth. Confirm what you have got, circuit diagrams are a must, always use correct grade of wire otherwise you will overload and overheat the overlay harness between spot lights and relay etc....

Thanks.

I had the same problem as you.

You will find these two links useful:

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/motor_connection_diagrams.htm

http://books.google.com/books?id=DDsh3lPokL4C&lpg=PA100&ots=N26cU5VS66&dq=wiring%20standard%20single%20phase%20dual%20voltage%20motor&pg=PA101#v=onepage&q&f=false

The first link shows you the NEMA standards for wiring a single phase dual-voltage motor. In the 'Dual Voltage: (Main Winding Only' table, the numbers are the terminal numbers on the motor. You will see to the left the standard color coding for each terminal number.

The second link shows you how a two mains winding/one start winding motor is wired, using the same terminal number convention. Note that Figure 8-32 is mislabeled; The T2 at the bottom should be labeled T4.

The reason it is a bit confusing for 220V as factory wired by Delta is they switch the T8 (Red) wire with the T5 (Black) wire against what the name plate recommends.

These leads are for the starter winding, which is used to get the shaft spinning in the direction that you want. The nameplate on the motor is for clockwise (CW) rotation, but the motor as mounted in the DJ-20 runs in counter-clockwise rotation (CCW).

So, the starter winding leads are flipped to get the shaft going the other direction (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor#Split-phase_induction_motor for a brief discussion; important takeaway 'phase lag' generates a magnetic difference that gets the shaft spinning).

For the question you asked: For 110V wiring,you need line 1 (probably black from the switch, its not too important) should blue, orange, black and for line 2 (white from the switch) should be red, white, yellow.

If for some reason the motor runs clockwise, just switch the red and black wires.

To add, on my motor name plate, it spells out you need to switch these two wires for CCW direction.

Don't forget to review your switch too. Generally, the black and white wires are both wired through the switch (dual pole), but for 110V, you just want the black wire running through the switch, and the white wires twisted together. In theory, this should be shown on the switch, but I haven't opened mine up yet.

this problem has to be solved by process of elimination first make sure the voltage used is the correct voltage the next step is to disconnect the motor wires from the starter and turn on the power if the starter engages u have a bad motor if breaker trips starter or power cable is shorted a direct on line 220 volts rated at 20 amps motor starter will work just fine or contactor and overload relay at 20 amps 220 volts ( GE, allan bradly,merlin gerin,legrand are some brand manufactures

Ok you have to trace the wires on down to what terminals they go to on the fan and especially the compressor. Usually you cant go by colors but always by the names on terminals and the like.

The capacitor has labels like (C or Com) (Fan or F) and (Comp or Herm). The compressor has terminals like (Com or C) (S or start) and (R or Run)

Write all the colors down on the compressor and the terminals that correspond to the colors.

Then do the same for what you can trace to the fan motor (usually there are only 1 or 2 going to the fan motor) If it just goes into the fan motor write down all the colors that go from the capacitor to the fan motor. The other wires from your description haven't been chewed or removed correct? If this answer is other than correct we have another step to perform.