Wheel horse The spindles are on a 36" deck, model 57361. No grease fittings on spindle housing; sealed bearing assembly. I need to replace the bearing shaft assembly, Toro part number 103119. It looks like I just remove the belt pulley, re-insert the pully bolt part way then smack the bolt to drive the pully / spindle shaft from the spindle housing. Wish I could post a photo and diagram on FixYa. Effectivly, the bearings are fixed to the shaft. I have access to a new shaft assembly. So... am I correct in saying the shaft drives out of the housing from the top and drops to the floor below the deck? Any pointers on re-installing the new spindle shaft? Thanks, [email protected]

By loose blade I assume you mean that it can be moved up and down at the tip of the blade. It is most unlikely that the central nut has come loose, but check anyway. If this nut is tight and the shaft is loose in the bearing this means the bearing has worn out. Remove the deck from the machine. Photograph the run of the belt as this has to be removed. Also the direction of the grease nipple. Remove pulley from loose spindle. Turn deck on its edge or mount on two saw horses or similar so you can get to top and bottom of spindle bolts. Remove cutting blade. Remove spindle housing and clean area so no rubbish gets caught when reassembling. Otherwise spindle may be set different and mower will leave a line of differing cut. Take spindle to vise and remove any retaining nuts or circlips from shaft and clean as clean as new. Apply light oil or CRC etc to help move bearing along shaft. Open vise wider that outside of bearing, usually 44 to 50mm [1 3/4" to 2"] and refit nut on thread. Check nut is always spaced free of top bearing. With cushion of hardwood or nylon tap the shaft to move it down with lower bearing coming out of spindle housing. To remove top bearing from housing, turn housing up other way and use a wooden shaft such as a broom handle to tap bearing free of housing. Clean out grease and replace when reassembling. Do not reuse other bearing. They are cheap and likely to fail shortly anyway. These bearings usually have no seals on inside.

Remove deck and place on two boxes or saw horses so that you can access both top and bottom of bolts holding spindle housing. Remove drive pulley from spindle. Remove cutting blade. Remove four bolts holding spindle housing to deck frame, noting which way grease nipple is pointing. Take spindle housing off and scrub deck frame clean of rust etc and also clean housing with wire brush. To remove bearings, look for retainers such as nuts or circlips. Remove these and ensure that the shaft is clean so bearing can be slid off. Apply CRC or light oil to assist bearing removal. Use a vise and set jaws wide enough that the bearing outside can fit between. This is usually 45 to 50mm. [1 3/4" to 2"] Place a hard wood block [or something that will not bruise the thread such as solid nylon] and screw nut well on to thread but make sure there is space for movement between nut and bearing. Firmly tap spindle end. Shaft should go down into top bearing and bottom bearing should start to emerge between vice jaws. Make sure that there is always space between nut and bearing before knocking end of shaft again. To knock top bearing out, place it on bottom over vise jaws and take a length of wood such as a section of broom handle and knock it out. Normally there should be no seals on the inside of these spindle bearings as they are greased from a grease gun thru the grease nipple.

To replace spindle bearings: Remove deck and either rest on two saw horses or similar mounts, or stand on its side and fix to make safe and secure. Photograph the belt layout and also the grease nipple so you can easily refit.The object is to access the top and bottom of the spindle. Remove cutting blade. Remove pulley on top side. I reccomend that you also remove the spindle housing from the deck. You can remove bearings while still fitted but it is not so easy. Clean the shaft and remove any circlips or retaining nuts from spindle. Take the unit and clean shaft as clean as new. Use emery paper if necessary. Use light oil or CRC to lube the shaft to slide bearings off. Do not hold shaft in vise as this will cause deformation of the shaft surface and jam the bearing. Place lower side of housing on vise which should be open slightly more than bearing outer diameter. Take hardwood or industrial nylon [to protect the thread from bruising,] after refitting nut on shaft thread, and ensuring there is space between nut and bearing, tap down firmly with hammer. The shaft will move more easily after the initial freeing up. When it moves easily remove nut and tap down with wood between hammer and thread end. To remove the top bearing use a wooden shaft, a broom handle is ideal. The replacement bearings should have no seals on the inside. Remove if necessary. Make sure to scrub clean both housing end and deck where the housing fits. Any rubbish there will cause lines in the mowing as it can tilt the blades. The thickness of paper can mean 3mm at the end of the blades!

I am not familiar with Cub Cadet but would suggest that if spindle is loose [wiggles] then one or more bearings need replacing. Remove the whole deck from the machine and turn over. Check the blade [s] are firm. If not undo the nut holding the blade on and remove the spindle and its housing from the deck frame. Remove the driving pulley also. Usually these types of drives have a spindle with a special fitting on the lower end for the blades to fit onto. Some are forged on the end of the spindle and the bearings come off the other end. Others will be removeable and so the bearings will come off each end. What ever, clean up with fuel and replace both bearings. You may have to remove the seals on the inside to let grease in. Make sure the top bearing has plenty of grease as it may miss out if all the grease goes down. Some machines it is better to leave the seals on top bearing. I have found that it does not pay to use the hose connection to clean the deck as the water destroys the bearings and only half cleans the deck. Best to put planks onto trailer or ute deck and run mower up so you can get underneath with big screw driver every now and then. Take blades off and sharpen them then also.

If the deck was supplied with grease zerks, they will be located on top of the spindle mandrels. If there are no zerks on the spindle mandrels, the bearing are a sealed bearing and need no greasing.

I remove spindles,drilled and tap housings for fitting. In middle of housing. Remove inner seals on bearings. Light oil on idlers.

Brake Rotor (Disc) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.
   
2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support on jackstands.
   
3. Remove the wheel and tire.
   
4. Remove the brake caliper assembly as described earlier in this section, but do not disconnect the brake hose.
   
5. Suspend the caliper assembly by a piece of wire. Do not allow it to hang by the brake hose.
   
6. Follow the procedure given under wheel bearing removal in Suspension and Steering for models with manual and automatic locking hubs (lines down).

New rotor assemblies come protected with an anti-rust coating which should be removed with denatured alcohol or degreaser. New hubs must be packed with EP wheel bearing grease.

1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Front Wheel Bearings - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 1 )

Fig. 1: Inspect the bearings for abnormal wear and/or damage

With Manual Locking Hubs
(see Figures 2 through 17)

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
3. Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the manual locking hub assembly from the spindle.
   
4. Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
   
5. Remove the outer wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
   
6. Remove the locknut washer from the spindle.
   
7. Remove the inner wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
   
8. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
   
9. Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
    
11. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
    
12. Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.

Fig. 2: Before beginning the wheel bearing removal, and after the outer hub is removed, wipe off any excess grease

Fig. 3: After the grease is wiped off, remove the axle shaft snapring ...

Fig. 4: ... then pull the splined spacer from the axle shaft end

Fig. 5: Use a 4 pronged socket to loosen the outer wheel bearing locknut ...

Fig. 6: ... then remove the outer locknut

Fig. 7: Remove the lockwasher from behind the outer locknut ...

Fig. 8: ... then loosen and remove the inner locknut-note the lockwasher engagement pin (arrow)

Fig. 9: While pushing inwards on the rotor/hub assembly, remove the outer wheel bearing ...

Fig. 10: ... then pull the rotor/hub assembly from the spindle, taking care not to scratch the bearing cups in the hub

Fig. 11: Pry out the grease seal on the back of the rotor/hub assembly ...

Fig. 12: ... then remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts for wear or damage

continue...

Hello Friend:

#1) Raise Car in The Rear Support it Good on Jack Stands.

#2) Remove your Wheel or Wheels if Doing Both Sides.

#3) Now Right in The Center of Your HUB you'll see a Dome Cap Remove the Cap,Now Remove the Cotter Pin, then the Spindle Nut and Washer.

#4) Now you'll pull your Hub Assembly Off ,The Outside Bearing will more or Less Fall off the Hub.But you'll need to Remove the Outer Bearing Race Its the Metal Angled Race.

#5) Before you remove the Outer Race take a Seal Remover and Remove The Grease Seal on the Inside of Hub.

#6) Now the Inner Bearing Will Come Out.You NOW Can Remove Innner and Outer Races.Use a Puch and Hammer Lightly Tap it by Working your Punch Side to Side.

#7) Now You've Remove BOTH inner and Outer Bearing Assemblies.

#8) Before you Start to Install New Races ,Get some Brake Clean and Clean The Inner Hub and the Spindle Good.

#9) Use a Bearing Race Installer Tool to Tap your New Bearing Races in.NOTE: you Don't want to Scar the Beveled Part of the Race Cause thars Where your Bearings Rotate.

#9) Races are in : Now take a Wheel Bearing Packer if you have 1 Availible: If not Pack As Much Heavy Duty Hi Temp Bearing Grease Into the Bearings. And Put some on the Spindle Were your Bearing Run on.

#10) Now Using a Seal Installer Tap your Inner Grease Seal into the Inner Hub Housing.

#11) OK Now your Ready to Put Your Hub Back on:Note: Put a Little Grease in The Domed Cap after you've Got the Hub On.

#12) DON"TS Get Grease on your Brakes or anywhere in The Brake Pad Assembly. #2) Don't Use the OLD Cotter Pin Get a New One. :#3) When Adjusting your Spindle Nut Don't Under Tighten or Over Tighten==Just Snug it down where theres no Play when you Take your Hands 1-Top=1 Bottom and Make Sure theres No Play.

Rotate The Hub During And When Tightening your Spindle Nut.

Put Hub Grease Cap on and Whell or Wheels and you Should be Good to Go.

Thanks for Using Fixya Please let me Know the Quality of my Advice/Solution by Voting Thank You From: d_hubbs

Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
   
2. Remove the wheels.
   
3. Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
   
4. Remove the hub grease cap.
   
5. Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
   
7. Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
   
8. Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
   
9. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
    

To install:

1. Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
   
2. If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
   

If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.

1. Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
   
2. Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
   
3. Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
   

Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.

1. Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
   
2. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
   
3. Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
   
4. Install the new cotter pin.
   
5. Install hub grease cap.
   
6. Install brake drum or disc.
   
7. Install the wheels.
   
8. Lower the vehicle.
   

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the caliper from the spindle and rotor, but do not disconnect the brake hose. Suspend the caliper inside the fender housing with a length of wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
4. Remove the grease cap from the hub and remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and adjusting nut.
5. Grasp the hub/rotor assembly and pull it out far enough to loosen the washer and outer wheel bearing. Push the hub/rotor assembly back onto the spindle and remove the washer and outer wheel bearing.
6. Remove the hub/rotor assembly from the spindle.
7. Inspect the rotor for scoring and wear. Replace or machine as necessary. If machining, observe the minimum thickness specification.

1. If the rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor with brake cleaner. Pack a new set of bearings with high-temperature wheel bearing grease and install the inner roller bearing in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly between the lips of a new seal and install the seal, using a seal installer.
2. If the original rotor is being installed, make sure the grease in the hub is clean and adequate, the inner bearing and grease seal are lubricated and in good condition, and the rotor braking surfaces are clean.
3. Install the hub/rotor assembly on the spindle. Keep the assembly centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease seal or spindle threads.
4. Install the outer wheel bearing, washer and adjusting nut. Adjust the wheel bearings according to the procedure in , then install the nut retainer, cotter pin and grease cap.