SOURCE: Pro-Form Sport 1000 treadmill does not stop inclining
Do a Calibration on the treadmill. Take out the safety key. With 2 fingers, hold down the stop button and the speed up or spped plus button. keep holding them down as you insert the safety key, then let go of both.
Press the stop button 1 time, you should see all 0's in the windows, or EP 2P or something weird like that.
Press the Incline up button and then wait. If the incline go up until it stalls then down until it stalls the stops at the bottom, the you are recalibrated, take out the safery key and put it back in to see if all is well. If the incline takes off up again without touching a button, the you have wiring problems or control problems. Call service company to get it repaired.
SOURCE: Proform 765 treadmill slows down when step on. Do
Hi,
More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.
BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish)
This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a
person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the
belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time
with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our
experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have
adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has
demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC
amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying
to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if
you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a
coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the
Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections
instructions.
The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting
and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should
take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few
Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this
tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at
3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs
down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over
for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily
worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for
this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank
down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep
everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with
the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3”
without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you
don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be
turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating
position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping
and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set
of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any
motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not
that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose.
If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts
aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem.
DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE
MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS
IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a
foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction
of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the
motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward
pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not
attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as
you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically
you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once
you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core
by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core
against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good.
If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
Controller:
This
is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in
this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will
end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is
dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests
of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a
current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning
up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible
problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace
the control.
The site :-
http://www.treadmilldoctor.com/Treadmill-Belt-Bogs-Down
Any further assistance, let me know.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
SOURCE: got a 390pi proform and when I step on the
Go to your local hard ware store and purchase silicone spray. Apply Lubricant by lifting one side of the running belt spray contents length wise starting at motor shroud to the back end repeat this process the other side. If this unit bogs down again then you will have replace the running belt and possibly the deck.
SOURCE: Proform Crosstrainer 5.0 Treadmill
ICON CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS- INCLINE
1) Press the Stop and the Speed Up keys down while inserting the safety key. If this doesn’t work, click on the help topic entitled “Alternate Calibration Codes” for key sequence instructions to enter calibration.
2) Press the Stop key one time. The Time window should read EP:2P. Some newer models may also say FP, Pass, or the like. This means that it passes the EPROM test.
3) Press either incline key and the incline will calibrate automatically.
4) THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP BECAUSE YOU WILL GET AN ERROR MESSAGE IF THIS STEP IS SKIPPED.After completing calibration of incline, press the Stop key and then remove the safety key.
SOURCE: The incline on my proform treadmill is not working
ICON CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS- INCLINE
1) Press the Stop and the Speed Up keys down while inserting the safety key.
2) Press the Stop key one time. The Time window should read EP:2P. Some newer models may also say FP, Pass, or the like. This means that it passes the EPROM test.
3) Press either incline key and the incline will calibrate automatically.
4) THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP BECAUSE YOU WILL GET AN ERROR MESSAGE IF THIS STEP IS SKIPPED.After completing calibration of incline, press the Stop key and then remove the safety key.
If the incline moves but you it will not operate normally nor calibrate, check the wiring from the incline sensor to the power board. If all looks normal, put it back in calibration and see if you see a blinking “- -” symbol in the incline window when you are calibrating. If not, the incline sensor is bad.
If the incline moves but only just a bit, it could be a problem as simple as the gearbox on the motor being jammed. We remove the motor from the treadmill, reconnect the wiring, and then try to run the incline motor outside the treadmill. Many times, this will unjam it if that is the problem and then reinstalling it in the treadmill will get it to work. If you have the same problem or it doesn’t run outside the machine and you can hear it try to work, you need to replace the incline motor.
If the incline motor does not move, we need to figure out if the motor is getting voltage. Use a simple multi-meter and set it to AC volts. When you put it into calibration, it tries to calibrate the directions one at a time. Measure across the white and black wires first, then measure across the white and red wires second. If the motor is getting voltage you will read 120VAC (or
thereabouts) one one of the measurements. If you have voltage but the motor won't move, you need to replace the motor.
4.
If the incline motor does not move and you have done the voltage test and you do not have any voltage present, there is a problem in the electronics board that supplies the power. If the console is powering the drive motor as normal, you can bet it is getting an incline signal and the power board needs to be replaced (some models have an integrated power board/controller) so if there is only a single board the whole board has to be replaced. It is possible the console is not giving the proper signal but we've never seen it happen in thousands of treadmills.
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