Water tank water doesn't flow to external water tank

1) Cheapest and most reliable solution: Install tank-type electric water heater from local box store for $250. Get store coupons, offer 10% off store price. Repairs are made same day with generic off-the-shelf parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-install-electric-water-heater.pdf

2) Install grundfo water pressure boosting pump.
http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_increase_water_pressure_in_your_home
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-solder-pipes.html

3) Remove areators and low flow shower heads, Maintain unit as shown in product manual: Delime tankless unit yearly, Clean water filter monthly.

4) Call city and report low pressure and report issue as fire hazard, move to different apartment. Call apartment complex and ask why they didn't read flow requirements for tankless before installing tankless.

5) Call Bosch 866-330-2729 and complain that nobody read the flow requirement or tested local water flow before installing tankless.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You probably have hard water deposits in the tubing. Run a couple tanks of vinegar through the machine on a brew cycle. Then flush with a couple tanks of water.

Hi Bob,

You can determine if the tank is the problem by connecting a garden hose to the drain that is provided on most water heaters. Before doing this, be sure to shut of the electrical supply to the heater - otherwise you can damage heating elements if an electric type or waste fuel by heating an empty tank if a gas / propane fired type.

If you get a slow flow out of this drain, it means that somewhere in the cold water supply side to / in the tank - there is a problem. Inside the tank, the cold water is delivered by a "dip tube" that distributes the cold water to the bottom in the tank. Dip tubes are used in both electric and gas / propane fueled heaters. Here's a cut away view of a typical tank:





If the tube is clogged, or there is build up, scale or debris in the supply (cold water) side of the heater, flow rates will suffer. Likewise, if there is a problem with the output of the tank, it will directly affect flow as well.

If you get a good flow rate from the drain, then the issue is going to be on the hot water output side of the heater. Again, the same build up, scale, debris issues on the hot water out put pipe will cause problems with flow. Typcial tanks do not have dip tubes for the hot water side of the tank - as taking hot water from the top of the tank is most desireable and is furthest away from the cold water that rushes in to make up the hot hot water going out.

There's nothing really in the tank itself that can cause issues with flow outside of the dip tube, and piping to and from the tank.

Good luck!

Hi snowjobs847...
Try resetting your float level to a lower water level in the tank, the extra pressure put on the seal may make it reseal.
If the above did not work:
You need to replace your "ballcock"...the ballcock (inlet valve) is non-repairable, has to be replaced with a new one if you cannot get it to stop leaking.
Please take time to rate me

Hi,

There is air in the lines and it is blocking the water flow...
Here is a tip that will help you getyour Keurig to prime...

Keurig CoffeeBrewer will not prime
heatman101

Check your by-pass valve(s) at back of water heater. Water goes in cold to bottom fitting, and out hot at top fitting, so those 2 valves ( if any) need to be open, anything in between needs to be closed. There are a few different by-pass set-ups, so if that doesn't explain it, get back to me with a description of your valve set-up and I'll guide you through it. If valve(s) are all in proper position and still no flow through hot line, I'd suspect faulty check valve in between hot line connection and tank.

If I undrestand your description, when the resevoir is empty, the float lays on the bottom of the resevoir but, the pump doesn't shut off, after water is pumped out? You have to look at this as opposite of a toilet tank filling with water. In a toilet, the water rises and the foat turn the water flow off. In a sump the water will rise, and the float will turnthe pump on until the resevoir is empty, then it will open the system and turn off the pump. If the float doesn't rise, the resevoir will overflow and the pump won't come on at all. If the float rises and the pump comes on but, the float does "not" drop, the pump will continue to run after the resevoir is empty.
http://www.zoellerpumps.com/ProductByCategory.aspx?CategoryID=3
This is Zoellers link. I don't see your pump but they do have a support link. If the float rises and falls with the height of the water, turns pump on, then drops "all the way" and pump doesn't turn off, the switch is bad not the float. Make sure there is nothing in the way of the float dropping to it's full down position.

you may have too much water pressure leading to your house, it should be between 70-80 pounds if its higher you can turn down the valve that shuts off the water flow to the tank, if that doesn't work feel free to contact me

The aerator on the end of the faucet may be restricting the flow. If you are on well water, the well pump or pressure tank may be the issue. A licensed plumber would be able to diagnose the latter issue.

Regards,

DIYpro

I recently encountered the same issue. First off, with the external tank installed is there an icon on the display panel indicating the tank is installed?

No? Then the two sensors are not picking up the magnets in the the "arms" on the back of the tank. It's a poor design for sure, on my unit the tank does not sit flush enough to the back of the AC, if I held the tank firmly to the back the icon would come on. I just used a bit of cardboard at the bottom of the support tray to press the tank firmly to the back of the AC.

Theory is as the external tank fills up, water will run into the "arms" and raise the magnets tripping the switch which tells the unit it needs emptying. But the magnets in the arms are not strong enough if they are not close enough to the sensors. So my cardboard solution lasted only one tank.

I ended up getting some flat neodymium magnets (that I scavenged out of a hard drive), and taped to the sensor that had the gap. I wouldn't recommend doing this to both sensors since it would eventually overfill, only one sensor needs to "trip" for the compressor to turn off.

If you answered yes to the first question (the bucket icon is there), then it's most likely the pump not working on the internal reservoir, or something related to that. Can't help you there...