Open and close the lid,if you don't hear a clicking sound you just have a bad lid switch,you have an older machine and it has a cherry switch in it,go here and look at part number 5
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-dryer-combo-Parts/Model-LSE7806ACE/3048/0152000/M0601018/00016?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=LSE7806ACE
part number 208823,all it is is a safety so the washer can't run with the lid open so it will fill and then stop because the switch is bad.
SOURCE: LSE7806A Top Load
The belt is still attached to the transmission right?? It sounds like the brakes may be stuck. Or are both belts off and the motor still trips out?
SOURCE: Maytag lse7806ace
After removing the power (easist was to shut breaker off), then replaced fuse just inside upper front left cover area by way of 2 white screws on bottom front panel. Clips secure the top into the horizontial lid panel (which you will also have to remove later if fuse keeps blowing) That worked for a coupe weeks as long as the Cycle Selector dial was always pushed in when you opened/closed the washer lid. Then the the problem returned. Only way out was to partially remove the unit from the wall and remove the lid assembly, which was much easier than first thought. Pictures attached. Tools needed are Phillips screwdriver and Nut drivers to remove the horizontial lid/panel from above the washer tub, and below the timer panel/dryer. Didn't need to remove the angled cover below dryer as Washer Door lid assembly is wholly below. Just push the dryer toward the rear, then remove two larger nuts from top left and top right corners. No nuts at rear, just clips that slide in/out. This allows lid cover to be pulled straight out (I had to remove the overflow tube on front right of tub, and one semi-rusted nut-driven screw from the Hot/Cold filler plate which is at the rear of the lid cover. That will make it easier to manipulate the cover and release the 4-pin plastic connector shown in pictures at the left rear corner. Then the entire cover/lid slides out easily as you may have to push the dryer top back to ease it out. Then flip it over and replace the switch and slide the 4 wire connector back under the plastic trip. and reverse the un-install. 4-pin connector is flat-keyed on one side, but it is tight to get to. My OEM part even included a new fuse (19.95 + shipping) Unit is now working fine for last 2 weeks.
SOURCE: Maytag Washer Just Stopped After it Filled With Water (Timer?)
Cant rule out the timer but I suspect first check the lid switch. The timer and other components are fed from the lid switch on most models. Just put the2 wires together and reapply power if it works replace the lid switch. If not you'll have to have a wire diagram to know where to check next, but your water level switch "fill switch" could be at fault. it stops the water valve 1 way and can energize the rest of the circuits the other way. It may not be closing in the "full" direction. Again this switch if so wired will have 3 wires on it.
SOURCE: Maytag Washer MAV7000AWW Washer fills as it
Sounds like a bad timer motor.
Try watching the timer motor and see if you can see it moving .
SOURCE: I have a model lse7806ace maytag stackable
Ok , when you pull out the washer knob to start it the water fills . Can you stop the filling by pushing the knob in? if so the water valve is ok.
There is a sensing tube from the tub which connects to the pressure switch. This is what causes the water level pressure switch to shut off at the correct level. I would suspect this as they replaced the pressure switch and it keeps filling. If this is the case there is a small hole which will cause the pressure switch not to turn off the fill valves.
You can check this by removing the tube and submerging it in some water then blow in the tube while blocking the other end , if you see bubbles it is leaking and needs replacing.Hope this helps
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