For the past 2 weeks or so , I noticed at least once a day, while driving, all of a sudden, my car shuts right down on me and when I'm pressing gas pedal, there is nothing. Then have to restart it. It has been doing this for the last couple of weeks without missing a day. It just recently did it yesterday , and now it wont start at all. There is lots of power, new alt, battery, fuel filter, no fuel leaks, also, already did troubleshoot on fuel injectors, no problems with them. Can someone help please! Thanks
What about a worn out fuel pump & fuel pressure
when it shuts off?
Hi Peter, I always thought once a fuel pump go.s it would just go all together, I just went outside, and it started for me. Is it at all possible, that the CCRM(Fuel pump relay is gone) High current fuse
Or the electronic fuel sending unit
Just checked all repair paperwork, and the fuel pump was replaced in June/2011
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SOURCE: 1998 3800 v6 firebird... wont run right after starting
Possibly a weak fuel pump, idle air control valve, vacuum leaks, or loose or damaged wiring in the ignition system. Check for vacuum leaks first. That's the only one that won't cost anything. Make sure all intake bolts are tight, and all hoses are connected properly and in good condition.
SOURCE: car just shut down on highway. Mech says I need a new crank senso
no you just need to remove the timing belts and crank gear all can be done in car i am a kia master certified technician and have replaced a few of these on both v6 and 4 cyl
SOURCE: 1993 Chevy S10 Blazer engine hesitation with smoke from exhaust
Had a 94 Olds Bravada that did a similar thing and it was EGR valve on the front of the intake. It' s easy to take off and clean with WD 40 and if you have an air compressor blow it out good.
SOURCE: Code P0342 - Chevy Aveo Sedan 2006. Last 2 months, when starts the car engine getting
Hello! The trouble code is telling us that the voltage to the Camshaft Positioning Sensor (CMP) is low...The connector that plugs into the sensor could be open, the sensor itself defective or low battery input to the sensor...See diagrams below as to sensor location...Lets eliminate...The wire colors in the CMP plug are...Pink...Black/White...And Light Blue/Black...If you connect a voltmeter to the Pink wire you must read 5 volts...Push a safety pin into the rear of the in-place connector into the Pink wire so it contacts the pin that the wire is crimped to...(+) probe of meter clipped to that pin and (-) probe to bare metal chassis ground...Key on...Meter set to read 5 volts...If 5 volts is present that eliminates a battery fault...Next push the safety pin into the Light Blue/Black wire...Turn on key...(+) probe to that pin...Should read about 2.4 volts...If you read nothing, or less than 1 volt the sensor is defective OR the connector pins to it are fouled...Pull plug and inspect both male/female pins for oil...corrosion...etc...Radio Shack sells a product called DeOxit...It's the best (no touch) spray contact cleaner...Send results...PS...Best meter to use is a digital one...$20...Guru...saailer
Remove engine cover:
CMP at top of drawing with timing chain cover removed for clarity...
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867
have you pulled codes or checked the fuel pressure? It could be a host of things, like a clogged air filter restricting the flow of air into the engine, a bad air meter, clogged injectors, etc. Engine codes will help you start narrowing things down.
Has the engine air filter ever been changed?
Testimonial: "Thanks for your advice I really need the car so any help is welcome!"
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