Yes...I have used and enjoyed this camera enormously(!)...but now i have to photoshop every image to remove the circular dark spot which now lives in the lower right quarter of the frame. he new R10 is considerably cheaper than the original price of the R6 and more highly specified, so unless a free or very cheap fix can be performed, I suppose that a repair is uneconomical....Please RICOH....what should we do?? There is no visible mark nor dirt on the outside of the lens, nor anything visibly wrong looking inside the lens barrell... ...
Thank you Killabyte187....I thought just the same but on searching I found that other R6 users have the same issue in the same exact position of the picture frame, which might indicate that something else is causing the problem. Also the dark circle is absolutely circular and quite sharply defined, which again might indicate that the object that causes it is very precisely circular, such as an internal filter or "stop" or even internal reflection or shadow....I am just speculating all these hypothesis because I really do not know the exact cause nor the cure.
Thank you Killabyte187....I thought just the same but on searching I found that other R6 users have the same issue in the same exact position of the picture frame, which might indicate that something else is causing the problem. Also the dark circle is absolutely circular and quite sharply defined, which again might indicate that the object that causes it is very precisely circular, such as an internal filter or "stop" or even internal reflection or shadow....I am just speculating all these hypothesis because I really do not know the exact cause nor the cure.
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Re: Dark circular spot on Ricoh R6 screen and images
There is a spec of dirt that made it inside the camera and has landed itself on your image sensor.
If you take a picture and the image has a spot on it, it could be the screen. If you transfer it to your computer and the spot is in the same spot, its something on the image sensor. You would have to send it out for cleaning, and a new camera would be cheaper.
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Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images. Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
That's quite a spot! Yes, I believe it is on your sensor. It could be one of the following: dirt, a spot from moisture condensing on the sensor after bringing a cold camera into a warm house, or mold. It can be cleaned but I imagine it will be expensive since the camera will have to be disassembled. I don't know how much you paid for it or how long you've owned it, but if the cost will be too high, it might be time to think about a new camera. Or, you could live with it and use Photoshop Elements to remove the spot on photos you want to show off to friends.
If by saying the upper right corner of the lens you really mean that there is a dark spot on each image AND the rear display, there may be dirt or dust on the lens itself. Clean the lens with an optical quality cleaner. Do not use paper towels and Windex or the like - as paper towels can scratch the lens.
It is also possible that the dark spot is a "stuck pixel" on the image sensor inside the camera. There is no way to repair a stuck pixel outside of replacing the sensor. Any dark spot (regardless of source) can be edited out by using image editing software. This will allow you to to make the dark spot less noticeable - or practically invisible.
If the dark spot is on the rear display only, it can also be a result of a "stuck pixel" on the display itself. This should not show up an images, but only on the display. There is little that can be done outside of replacing the entire rear screen.
There are other things that can cause these problems, but those listed above are the most common.
hi, i am del and the problem i face is the screen appears dark with circular dots resembling stars in the sky on a dark night. images cannot be viewed and when i click there appear some horizontal lines. what could be the problem? Can you help please? Rgds del
martod,
Every picture looks good on the LCD since it's small, make sure you set your camera to flash, try ISO 200 and if the flash is TTL (thru the Lens) for digital it should adjust to the shot based on your other settings - I'm not familiar with that flash.
randy320sgi
Try lithium batteries or rechargables in the 2500mah range,to me they seem to work best in a flash.
If you use alkalines,use a well known brand.But with alkalines,as they loose power it takes longer for the flash to recycle.
Also the monitor might need to be calibrated or adjusting brightness and contrast.
Mine sometimes does the same thing,I just use Photoshop to adjust it.
This is normal. Look at page 53 of your user's manual. There, it shows in the illustration, the figure of a woman with a highlight on her forehead (#2). These flashing patches will occur anytime there are highlights in the image area. These indicate an over-saturation of light on the CCD. Usually, when you view the image on your computer, the image will look normal. You may have to manipulate the image with Photoshop when you make a print. Hope this helps.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
Thank you Killabyte187....I thought just the same but on searching I found that other R6 users have the same issue in the same exact position of the picture frame, which might indicate that something else is causing the problem. Also the dark circle is absolutely circular and quite sharply defined, which again might indicate that the object that causes it is very precisely circular, such as an internal filter or "stop" or even internal reflection or shadow....I am just speculating all these hypothesis because I really do not know the exact cause nor the cure.
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