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Posted on Mar 30, 2009

Kenmore 385 model Automatic Button Hole Apparatus Jams Thread?

As you start sewing buttonhole, after a few stitches the thread balls up

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    I start to make button holes and it they look okay but when finished I can see loose threads on both long sides.

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  • Posted on Jun 05, 2012
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Practice and practice some more! Use the same fabric and interfacing as your project and a NEW needle (the correct needle) This is for the Sears Kenmore 385 automatic button hole maker. Make sure you pull the bobbin thread through the Guide Block - it is that simple. Make sure you pull your thread to the back of the machine though the presser foot slot - the correct presser foot. Account for both thread tails before starting to sew. Keep thread tails to the back of the machine 4-5", insert fabric under presser foot keeping thread tails clear. Mark button hole and sew.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 15 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 10, 2007

SOURCE: kenmore 12 stitch sewing machine-wont sew

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Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 24, 2008

SOURCE: My bottom thread is loose when sewing a straight stitch

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.




Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !


Anonymous

  • 323 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 23, 2009

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore Sewing Machine Model 385. 1254180 Bobbin Won't Wind

On some of these machines when the bobbin winder is on it stops the rest of the machine from working. Push the bobbin winder mechanism to the left and see if your machine will work.
sewman7

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 27, 2009

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore 385 (12116690) the thread keeps breaking

I have this same machine, it belonged to my husbands grandmother and was given to me after she passed. I let it sit for a few years before I got it out to use it, it was just too emotional. I had this same problem, and after cleaning, it worked fine. I followed the instructions in the manual for taking out the bobbin, bobbin case and metal parts that hold it in the machine. (there are pictures in the manual to help you take it out, take it apart, and put it back in... sounds hard but it's really not). I used a tooth brush to get all of the dust bunnies out (you could go over with a vacuum hose too, after the toothbrush cleaning). After I did this it worked fine. You may want to look in the manual about oiling the machine, if it's been years since it's been done, that might help to. Hope you get it working! I love this machine, it works well and is good quality. (they don't make sewing machines like they used to, the only one I'll buy is a Kenmore!)

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2009

SOURCE: Thread is not coming up

YOUR PROBLEM IS THE TIMMING IN YOUR MACHINE. THIS HAPPENDS WHEN YOU FORCE YOUR MACHINE TO SEW SOMETHING OR WHEN YOUR NEEDLE BRAKES. nOT SURE HOW TO FIX IT. I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. USUALLY A TUNE-UP WOULD DO IT. IT'S ABOUT $99 TO $130.00 TO DO A TUNE UP. i WISH I KNEW HOW TO FIX IT MYSELF.

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1answer

When using the button hole attachment, my fabric is not moved forward by the lower plate and thread gets caught up under that bottom plate. How do I fix this

Perhaps you have the stitch length set too short (close together) so the thread under the fabric is building up into a knot and then hangs up in the space under the needle plate. Try lengthening the stitch length and do some tests until you get it where you want the buttonhole to look.

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I can't get my buttonhole maker to work on my model 385-15516000 kenmore. The thread just bunches up. Help!

try a new needle
does the machine have a button hole lever that has to be pulled down?
is the machine in the darn position
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E1 flashes on the message window of my brother sewing machine

Brother Computer Codes
  • E1: Make sure the presser foot is lowered before sewing.
    E2: You chose a stitch other than a buttonhole stitch or a bar tack stitch and you tried to sew with the buttonhole lever in the lowered position. Raise the buttonhole lever.
    E3: If you selected the buttonhole or tack bar stitch and start to sew with the buttonhole lever raised, you will get the E3 code. Lower the buttonhole lever.
    E4: You hit the reverse button while the bobbin winder shaft was moved over to the right. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
    E5: On automatic sewing machines, the start/stop button was pressed while the foot controller was plugged in. Unplug the foot controller if you are using the automatic function.
    E6: This code tells you that the motor locked up because the thread is tangled. Untangle the thread, make sure the machine is threaded properly and that the proper tension is set before continuing.
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1answer

I get a E4 code whan I turn on machine and I can't figure out what is wrong.

Brother Computer Codes E1: Make sure the presser foot is lowered before sewing.

E2: You chose a stitch other than a buttonhole stitch or a bar tack stitch and you tried to sew with the buttonhole lever in the lowered position. Raise the buttonhole lever.

E3: If you selected the buttonhole or tack bar stitch and start to sew with the buttonhole lever raised, you will get the E3 code. Lower the buttonhole lever.

E4: You hit the reverse button while the bobbin winder shaft was moved over to the right. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left.


E5: On automatic sewing machines, the start/stop button was pressed while the foot controller was plugged in. Unplug the foot controller if you are using the automatic function.


E6: This code tells you that the motor locked up because the thread is tangled. Untangle the thread, make sure the machine is threaded properly and that the proper tension is set before continuing.
5helpful
2answers

How do I use the button hole foot on the Bernina 807 minimatic?

There isn't an automatic button hole on this machine. You can do it manually. Thread the bobbin thread as usual, but put it through the little hole on the hook in the bobbin case. Set the stitch length between 0 and 1, like a nice satin stich. Set the needle position to the far left and the stitch width to 2. Sew down the left side. Center the needle, set the width to 4 and lower the feed dogs, stitch about 6 stitches across the bottom. Then reverse the direction, set the needle to the right, stitch width to 2 and go back up the right side. Lower the feed dogs again, set a wide stitch and finish the top.

Another good option is to buy a universal presser foot shank from Bernina and then attach an old cam type buttonhole attachment from Singer. They make beautiful buttonholes and you can even do a keyhole button hole.
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Buttonhole

When a machine does an "automatic buttonhole the feed does not move for a few stitches and maay jam if there are too many stitches made in this position. Is it an automatic buttonhole or can you choose how many stitches for your bartack? You ask about 0.5 well that is halfway between 0 and 1 on the stitchlength and this is indeed the recommended setting for buttonholes. If you are doing a manual buttonhole set your machine to this for the sides and zero for the bartacks but you only need about 6-10 stitches on the bartack. Fininsh it off securely by setting to straight stitch and stitch length zero for about 4 stitches to lock the thread in.
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