SOURCE: Loud Clicking noise only for the first 30-40 seconds of spin cycle.
You may have something caught in the pump impeller. I have found nails, screws, drill bits, paper clips and other small items that some how make their way past the wash tub and into the drain line. I would inspect the drain pump. Remove as much water as you can. Using a wet/dry shop vac to pull water through the drain hose is the best way to drain all residual water from the pump and drain lines. Remove the inlet line first and inspect the pump impeller. Chances are, you have something stuck causing the impeller to rub against it. If this has gone on too long, you may have some damage to the pump. I hope this is helpful to you.
SOURCE: Machine quits during the spin cycle
I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the Clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries to get it to clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out a trying a fix If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!
SOURCE: washes but won't spin or drain completely unless no clothes in
Hello screenman780
I will assume you are taking dc or UC errors to the display in spin cycle. Just need the first two digits of your machine serial number, ie. 10,12,16 etc. That information is located on the right back side of the machine console. If you are taking those errors I recommend removing the clutch inspecting the clutch roller bearings and clutch spring. There is a test to perform for the Tub Displacement Sensor that we could check first but 10 times out of 10… so far it’s the clutch. Most of the time a cleanup with WD-40 and re-lube of the clutch bearings with some light bearing grease will get you back in service. If the clutch bearings are rusted up beyond clean up or the clutch spring is broken then a clutch replacement will be required. I recommend this clutch as a replacement. I put that clutch in my machine (1st two digits of my s/n are 16) just to make sure it would work, my original clutch was cleaned up with WD-40 alone and worked as the day delivered on 7/05. Take a look and read thru the post in the link below. In that post I go thru a step by step process to replace the clutch (comment of 3/18). I can also offer some phone support no charge; I'm a DIY'er owner of the machine. I believe the repair cost (from previous post on this forum) to replace the clutch and labor will be around $300 if you don't DIY the repair/maintenance for this issue. Most of the clutch malfunctions are resolved with the clutch maintenance. Anyone can do this with only basic mechanical skill sets. If you can change the spark plug on a lawnmower you can deal with this, the work area is just tight. Here are some folks that had positive results with this maintenance. Unfortunately I feel many of these machines end up at the curb for bulk trash pickup when a $10 fix for some WD-40 a squirt of bearing grease or worse case a $50-$60 new clutch replacement. Good Luck and let me know if you need additional support, Rich.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t527875-maytag_neptune_tl
Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix1/19
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Solution #4 posted on Mar 17, 2009
SOURCE: Shakes on spin cycle
yes bad struts can cause this problem also if you have it on carpet you would be better off cutting a piece of plywood for it to sit on as it will shake when sitting on carpet most of the time
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune bearing noise
John,
What are the first two numbers of your serial number i.e.10 through 17. I’m an owner like you not a repair person….. but I have a very good feel for machine issues and the repair of the machine. See my ratings under this nick name FAV6800AWDIY and my old original nick name dh1200s.
The biggest problem with FIXYA is they don’t ask the user for Model or S/N of the machine. I can’t believe how many professional repair folks jump in with comments and they have no clue as to what machine is being discussed.
You may end up going with a replacement if it’s the Outer Tub Bearings. I would remove the tub and try to replace before I would junk a $1000 but that’s me you would need to decide. This a weak repair area for me I have not replaced the outer tub bearings on any of the three FAV66800A’s I own but I feel confident I could do it. I buy these cheap and repair for resale.
Have you had the Clutch Pulley removed/replaced in the past for dC or uC error code failure in Spin Cycle?
I would drop the Clutch Pulley out and clean up/re-lube the One-Way Roller Clutches and check for signs of a tub seal leak. Then with the Clutch Pulley out spin up the Wash Basket CCW as fast as you can by hand and listen for bearing noise of the Outer Tub Bearings. Let’s make sure the One-Way Roller clutch bearing is not the bearing noise source. See this post for removing the clutch and doing maintenance and replacement. Clutch Fix Post
I have to post rest of this comment as a comment. This forum is not geared up for DIY responses.
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