SOURCE: kenmore washing machine
please rate my solution this is a great one... the drain hose is either a)not routed higher than the tub of the washer b)it is clamped tight to a drain hose of various materials c)too much excess drain tube is pushed into drain hose and extends all the way to botton of drain pvc. See the installation instructions under drain requirements www3.sears.com
SOURCE: washing machine
I'll start with the least expensive problems and work my way up to be somewhat encouraging!
* If the machine fills with water AND it doesn't spin OR pump the water out [and you cannot hear the motor running] the lid switch that triggers the machine may be defective or broken. For safety, washing machines are made so that they cannot spin with the lid open. The lid switch "tells" the washer that the lid is closed, so if it breaks, the washing machine may be able (in some models) to fill but not spin -- in some models, it may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. Not sure if this is "kosher"or not, but I have checked this myself without taking anything apart by carefully inserting the tip of my finger into the small hole where the lid closes. When I did push the little pad just beneath the surface of the hole, my machine started working. . . when I moved my finger, it quit, so I knew it was the lid trigger switch that I needed to replace.
* If your machine fills up but won't spin and won't pump water out [but you hear the motor running] it could be the pump pulley that has become "frozen" or stuck. To check this, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley by hand. If it won't turn fairly freely -- it it's really stiff or won't move at all, or, if the pump belt is broken -- replace it. Many machines have two belts -- if either is broken, it could result in a problem like the one you've mentioned.
* If the washer pumps water out but won't spin, the motor coupler may be broken. Many machines are made by Whirlpool [Kenmore, Roper, etc. are all made by Whirlpool]. These washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. These can wear out with time, and this may be a problem if your machine is an older unit.
* If the washer pumps water out but will not spin or agitate (or, if the water will pump out but the machine will either spin OR agitate but not both), the drive motor may be defective, either totally burned out or only burned out one one of the two sides/directions [the spin/drain is one direction of the reversing motor, the agitation is the opposite direction]. If one of these cycles works and the other doesn't, possibly the drive motor has burned out in one direction only. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
* If you hear a really loud noise when the machine should be spinning, it could be that the spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components let the inner tub spin freely inside the outer tub. This would be a repair for a qualified technician.
SOURCE: Kenmore 'Elite' washing machine
remove the bottom panel is is held in place with 3 torx screws
SOURCE: I have a top load washing machine model number
Water only fills in if the valve from inside the washer is open. This valve is control by a tube floater to monitor water level from the wash tube. The tube floater is engaging with a switch to turn on the valve or off. If this switch is bad or the tube floater is stuck, then there is a problem like this. Need to check this out. Hope this can give you an idea to locate the problem.
SOURCE: My Kenmore top load washing machine is stuck in
sounds like ur pump has gone out totally and the controller is bad cause its not filling the tub or is it if it is and just wont pump it out u have a bad pump
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