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Unroll the wick about 6 inches. Lay about 1/2 inch of wick across the solder joint. (Solder connection on bottom of circuit board)
Put the soldering iron tip on Top of the wick, and on top of the solder joint. When the wick starts to absorb the melted solder, remove the wick. Cut off the solder soaked wick part, so you will have a new wick surface to operate with.
Keep going around the solder joint, until most of the solder joint is removed. You will NOT remove all solder. You are JUST trying to remove the majority.
Perform for all solder joints (Connections) on the bottom of the circuit board, for those RCA jack leads.
GO SLOW. Remove solder from one lead -> STOP Allow the circuit board to cool down. Then continue on.
Circuit board on it's side on the workbench, hold the insulated part of the RCA jack with one hand.
You want to rest your hand on part of the circuit board, (If possible), and use the heel of your hand as a fulcrum. Fingers constantly applying pressure to the jack, pulling jack away from circuit board.
Heat one of the solder connections up on the bottom of the circuit board. Applying pressure with your fingers, see if this one lead will start to come out of the circuit board.
It will only come out so far, as the other leads of the RCA jack are still holding it in. The method is to heat one solder connection, try to pull the lead out of the circuit board a little, then go to the nearest lead; and heat it up. (Heat it up = Melt the solder)
Keep pulling the leads out a little at a time, and going from lead to lead, until they all come out of the circuit board.
NOTE* What look to be very flat thin copper wires, on the bottom of the circuit board, are actually Circuit Traces. Also known as Signal Traces.
IF, you heat the solder joint (Connection), too long, you stand the chance of ruining the circuit board. This = No.
You can lift the circuit trace right off of the motherboard, using too much heat. You can burn the circuit trace 'hole', and this will make it so it will NOT accept solder again. (You can't tin it )
GO SLOW. You have as MUCH time as you need.
Suggest melt one solder joint a little, pull on on it's lead, then allow the circuit board to cool down some. Then go to the nearest lead, heat it's solder joint, pull up; then let the circuit board cool all the way down.
You get the picture
[Leads are the 'stiff wires' coming down from the RCA jack. Circuit trace 'hole', is the hole where the lead goes through in the circuit board ]
When the damaged RCA jack is removed:
There will be residue left behind on the circuit board 'hole'. This needs to be properly cleaned. I use Isopropyl Alcohol, and an old toothbrush.
CAUTION! Isopropyl alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Use in a WELL ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present.
Yeah, I know. A disclaimer. I just want to make sure you do not get hurt.
Means circuit board well away from the hot soldering iron, when cleaning.
There may also be a thin coat of solder over the circuit trace holes, left behind. DO NOT worry about it/them. Leave alone.
When you go to install the new RCA jack, you will cut the leads until they are about 1 inch long, if not already that length. Bend the leads so you can try a trial fit, and make sure each lead is going towards it's circuit trace hole.
Leads of the RCA jack pushing against (Lightly), the circuit trace hole, and the thin solder 'skin'. When you heat the circuit trace hole from the bottom of the circuit board, the solder 'skin' will instantly melt, and allow the RCA jack lead to poke through.
Don't know if you used to solder back in the day, but solder has changed now. It is 'green', and no longer contains lead. Makes it a @$#@^ if you are soldering with it the first time. Suggest practice on soldering wires together, and perhaps an old circuit board.
The solder joints you make MUST be clean and bright. They should look like a 'Hershey's Kiss' when properly done.
IF, you make a bad solder joint, it is a Cold Solder Joint. This = No. You'll be pulling your hair out trying to figure out what is wrong, when it is just a cold solder joint.
You may wish to also view some soldering tutorials on Youtube,
The board may appear undamaged, but the instrument's behavior says something is broken. I have no idea what kind of musical instrument this is, but circuit boards are all the same.
Especially on boards with narrow circuit traces and surface mount parts, damage can be very hard to see. A trace might have a hairline break which would be impossible to see without bright light, strong magnification, and some idea where to look.
It's also possible that the board is fine, but some part has been damaged. The lead from some part may have broken away from the circuit trace, for example. Or a small surface-mounted component may have popped off completely or had a lead broken off.
Unfortunately, this kind of trouble is very hard to fix without detailed product information (circuit diagrams and board layout). Unless the manufacturer makes a service manual available to the general public, this means sending the unit back to them or an authorized service center for repair.
Here's the fix: Take off the top cover of the projector. Unplug the
wire leading from the two fans in the back of the unit to one of the
circuit boards in front of you. Just trace one wire from fan to board.
Unplug at board. Turn unit on and it will again turn on, show HP splash
screen and then shut down, like it should, because the fans are now
disabled. After it completly shuts down, plug the fan wire back into
the board. Turn the unit back on and, presto, its working again. It
will not turn off.
you must check the layout first if the layout is ok then trace from the dash boards connection and you will know what wrong with the dash board lighting system,.after that contact your auto eletrician to re-connect the wires in the dash board.thank you
The electronic control board will have to be replaced. You can search online or call Sears (they can order just about any type of part for any type of product for you) with a model and serial number. Generally, the electronic control board is not that difficult to replace.
element on allthe time sounds like a direct short of the wire leading to it, trace back the wire , it will lead directly to control board behind front panel. there should be a tech sheet behind the lower kick panel complete with wire diagram
Yes, your mobo Asus P5LD2-VM support CPUs with Conroe-core ("Core 2 Duo").
But for new CPUs strongly recommended use last BIOS version - 1401 from 2007/08/14.
There are 3 versions of this motherboard; 1.0, 2.0 & 3.3, but the layout is identical.
The general layout is shown in pins.jpg. For the power led, the white wire goes to the (-) terminal either pin 2 or 3, both are MPD- while the green goes to the ( ) or pin 1 (MPD ) as shown in powerled.jpg
HDDpins.jpg shows the connection of HDD led, the white goes to pin 3 or HD- while the red goes to pin 1 or the HDD .
I cropped these images from the manual which is also available at the gigabyte website.
Hope this gives you some ideas and workout of you. Good luck and pls post again how things turn up. Kind regards.