Spins, stops, tries to start again, stops, and never finishes. If we unplug it for awhile, it may then run fine, but soon it will start the same process.
Hi mgrey,
Thank you for the machine model number confirmation. Who ever offered up the clutch as a possible issue has a clue. Could be the Tub Displacement Sensor but from my experience 10 times out of 10 it’s the clutch. I’ll post this info as a solution, the next question is read the info look at the Service manual and see if you or someone you know that is handy can drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect. They can then evaluate the clutch to see if it’s what I call a soft failure, clean up and re-lube of the Clutch roller bearings. If the clutch roller bearings can be cleaned up and re-lubed and the clutch spring is not broken then you could be back in service today. If you call in a repair service and they have a clue and don’t shotgun parts into the machine the cost could be around $300+ for the clutch and labor. They won’t clean up and re-lube the clutch bearings. Please See this post for clutch maintenance it’s a recent post. I have some Pic’s that show the clutch and a replacement new clutch recommendation if it comes to that. I’m an owner of the machine and can offer phone support if you need. You can contact me at [email protected] and I can forward you a phone number. Post back anytime and I or someone will be there to help, I hope you can tolerate the down time, so many of these machines are junked for fix that is easy for the average DIY’er. Rich
I'll paste in the basic steps to follow;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual and Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix1/19
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Hello mgrey,
“”Could it be my clutch re-installation did not work properly? Any suggestions?””
Could be let’s troubleshoot the issue. How did the Clutch roller bearings look? I assume they were dry with a hint of rust and the clutch spring was intact. Tight work area for sure but good for you for rolling up your sleeves.
This is a manual test, can you open the lid and let me know if the wash basket will turn freely
CCW with one figure, it should. In spin cycle the motor reverse and runs the wash basket CCW.
The wash basket will not rotate CW.
Can you run the washer in Spin Only cycle with an empty wash basket. Do you here any mechanical noise that is unfamiliar? Spin only cycle is a 10 min cycle you will only need a few minutes of the cycle to observe the clutch pulley and to make sure the pulley is running true with no wobble and no excessive mechanical noise, be careful with the rotating belt. You can end the cycle with the off button. It took me a few tries to get the Clutch pulley seated properly without making any noise, wobble and spinning off the shaft. Did the wash basket rotate CCW with no observed issues or excessive noise?
Let’s do all wash loads in quick wash with Soil level and Spin levels set to min settings. In quick wash the first drain and spin cycle starts at approximately 22 minutes into the cycle. When you stall at 24 on the display, do you take a error code to the display? I think you are into a spin cycle when this is happening but using the Quick Wash cycle with minimum settings will keep us on the same washer time cycle reference. You will become an expert shortly. Rich
“”Could it be my clutch re-installation did not work properly? Any suggestions?””
Could be let’s troubleshoot the issue. How did the Clutch roller bearings look? I assume they were dry with a hint of rust and the clutch spring was intact. Tight work area for sure but good for you for rolling up your sleeves.
This is a manual test, can you open the lid and let me know if the wash basket will turn freely
CCW with one figure, it should. In spin cycle the motor reverse and runs the wash basket CCW.
The wash basket will not rotate CW.
Can you run the washer in Spin Only cycle with an empty wash basket. Do you here any mechanical noise that is unfamiliar? Spin only cycle is a 10 min cycle you will only need a few minutes of the cycle to observe the clutch pulley and to make sure the pulley is running true with no wobble and no excessive mechanical noise, be careful with the rotating belt. You can end the cycle with the off button. It took me a few tries to get the Clutch pulley seated properly without making any noise, wobble and spinning off the shaft. Did the wash basket rotate CCW with no observed issues or excessive noise?
Let’s do all wash loads in quick wash with Soil level and Spin levels set to min settings. In quick wash the first drain and spin cycle starts at approximately 22 minutes into the cycle. When you stall at 24 on the display, do you take a error code to the display? I think you are into a spin cycle when this is happening but using the Quick Wash cycle with minimum settings will keep us on the same washer time cycle reference. You will become an expert shortly. Rich
“”posted by mgrey on Apr 06, 2009
Forgot to mention in last posting, clutch spring area had a small silver part of it that was broken off, not sure where, but just a small piece. Just took it out and cleaned things up. I just re-assembled it as best as I could remember it was taken apart.””
That may be an issue, is it the pin that sits in the slot of the white cover of the clutch. Lets stay on your original post with this issue. The Spin Cycle only run will tell me if the clutch is engaging properly raise the washer top and see if the wash basket spins CCW in Spin Only Cycle.
Does the inside of your clutch look like this? Key in on the pins in the spring, could the broken part look like it came from either of the two pins in this pic? You may have to puul the clutch out again to inspect (Stare and Compare).
Bingo you found your problem and you are correct the loop on the stainless steel spring has broken off. You will need to replace the clutch. I feel this is what was happening. When your machine would enter spin cycle the wash basket would turn CCW but the tumblers would rotate because of the failed clutch not engaging properly tossing the clothes around while trying to spin up. The tumblers should only rotate ½ turn or less at the start of a spin cycle and no more. If the tumbler rotate even very slowly while in spin cycle the machine will go into unbalance condition and make the 5 or so attempts to redistribute clothes trying to clear the load unbalance condition. After those attempts to redistribute the load the control board signals enough of this **** and stops the process and signals a dc or UC condition to the display. My original clutch worked for fine for three months after roller bearing clean up and re-lube. The clutch I reference has been use by another forum member on another board. I did not want to recommend this clutch to others without trying it myself. I have had this clutch in my machine for several weeks now (20+ loads) and it works fine. This is the Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169 the first two digits of my serial number are 16 and I feel this clutch will work in all FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines. I see no reason to spend $135 to $180 range for a replacement clutch. I received the clutch in two days from the supplier. Can you let me know the first two digits of your serial number is? It’s located on the right back side of the console as you face the console. Yes reinstalling the clutch is the most difficult part of the process, if the clutch if not seated properly it will spin off. Mine spun off twice before I got it to seat properly. Actually on the third attempt it did not spin off but made a clicking noise and had wobble as it spun. So I backed out the 3/8” bolt and started over. It’s a tight work area, make sure you block up the machine at angle so you can get a better reach angle. This from my step by step procedure;
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
Does you clutch use an upper roller bearing assembly such as the clutch I recommend. My series 16 machine dos not use the upper bearing assembly. Can you send me a pick of your complete clutch. This may help me help others going forward. You can bet many visitors to this forum junk the machine for this very basic fix action that you are doing.
You are well on your way, hang in there and let me know what I can do to help. Rich
Clutch on the left is this Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169 clutch on the right is my original clutch.
The upper bearing assembly fits on top the clutch hub so there are two sets of roller bearings on your machine clutch type correct? Your machine is a series 10 1st two digits of the s/n. A local purchase would be quicker and it could be the same price. Give the local supplier a try. If you go to Sears Parts Direct outer tub you will find the clutch for the Series 10 yours, Series 12 both the same part number 12002211. That same p/n would work on my series 16 only I don’t use the upper bearing assembly as yours does. I just had to try the $48 dollar clutch and it works fine for my series 16 machine. I feel this clutch will work in all series FAV6800A/FAV9800A but don't make a purchase decesion on my feeling, I would not want to steer you in the wrong part purchase direction.
If you plug that p/n 12002211 in the AZ supplier for comparison cost you get this. Go the route you feel most comfortable with I will be around to help out. When the job is done if you can rate my solution it would be most appreciated. I receive no compensation I’m an owner like you I just want folks to be aware of what support I can offer. The machine is a hobby of mine, soon as the bass boat is ready I'm outta here...:) Rich
Comment to mgrey;
Good deal, shout out if ou need help. Reseating the clutch gets easier after a few tries. Good luck Rich
Hi mgrey,
What was the part number of the clutch you bought? My series 16 doesn’t use the upper bearing assembly. I believe your old clutch did have the upper bearing assembly is that correct? The clutch should rotate freely once installed. I believe your old clutch looks like the one on the left in the picture I show in this post is that correct? The one on the right is my old clutch which did not have the upper bearing assembly.
The gap can be felt as you reseat the clutch on the spinner shaft. A torque wrench is not necessary just snug up the 3/8” bolt. Once seated properly the clutch will stay on. It’s a tight work area, did you lean the washer back and block up against the wall. That will give you a better reach angle to place the clutch on the shaft lift up and rock back and forth. I put the clutch on hand tighten the clutch pulley bolt then walked the belt on the pulley. I then loosened the bolt a bit and with upward lifting pressure and rocking rotating the clutch back and forth to reseat the clutch. It’s just hard to describe. I believe this poster machine used the upper bearing assembly read his Solution #4 posted on Mar 17, 2009. I’ll paste in his comment
“”The Service manual download was very helpful because it has a few pictures to show the 1/16"-1/8" gap from the shaft to the clutch face. What this really is telling you is that "if" you get all the three parts (clutch plate- bearing sleeve and cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections) to the clutch assembly back in correctly, you will end up with the 1/16"-1/8" gap. I also did my repair by tilting the machine back and working on it in place. Test the fit of each of the 3 pieces seperately so you will have a better idea what you are trying to fit. The cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections "seats" into the bottom of the tub. The bearing also seats onto the shaft in the notches. The clutch simply fits on the square shaft. The trick is getting the 3 piece assembly on with every piece seated correctly. By no means impossible, but working in limited space it was the most difficult part to do. Something that I thought of (after the repair) was to actually cut out the sheet metal directly below the clutch. This would allow easy access for the reassembly.’”
Again I believe your original clutch uses the upper bearing piece, as pipespike states you have to get the fitment of the upper bearing assembly the bearing sleeve I call it the coupler and the clutch seated properly to get that 1/16"-1/8" gap shown in the Service manual page 47.
Sorry I took so long to get back to you, I work a second shift and just got home. If you want to hook up on the phone just e-mail me at [email protected] and I will forward you a contact number. Rich
Good job mgrey,
What you did is save your $1000 machine from bulk trash pick up day and you kept the repair cost ($350-$500) to a minimum. Most of the time the FIXYA forum becomes a *itchya forum for the FAV6800A, it’s great to see some folks that can move beyond obvious design issues of the machine and just roll their sleeves and try to work thru the issues. If I could ask what was the AZ clutch part number that you used? Regarding the matching dryer issue, I have a Sears unit. Try http://servicematters.com click on Maytag historical service library agree to terms and enter your model number. See if you can find a service manual for it. If you forward me the model number and s/n I will see what I can come up with. Good luck and after you go thru some loads if you can rate my suggestion I would be grateful. Thank you Rich
What you did is save your $1000 machine from bulk trash pick up day and you kept the repair cost ($350-$500) to a minimum. Most of the time the FIXYA forum becomes a *itchya forum for the FAV6800A, it’s great to see some folks that can move beyond obvious design issues of the machine and just roll their sleeves and try to work thru the issues. If I could ask what was the AZ clutch part number that you used? Regarding the matching dryer issue, I have a Sears unit. Try http://servicematters.com click on Maytag historical service library agree to terms and enter your model number. See if you can find a service manual for it. If you forward me the model number and s/n I will see what I can come up with. Good luck and after you go thru some loads if you can rate my suggestion I would be grateful. Thank you Rich
Hey mgrey,
I think this may be your dryer, looks like there a couple of different console variants. I could not tell much about the tumbler arm in the basket.
http://servicematters.com/maytag_library...
Sears Parts Direct had a better exploded view and I feel you are right looks like a couple of machine screws holding in the tumbler arm in the basket. See this view item #28 Screw, baffle
Good luck
I think this may be your dryer, looks like there a couple of different console variants. I could not tell much about the tumbler arm in the basket.
http://servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023110.pdf
Sears Parts Direct had a better exploded view and I feel you are right looks like a couple of machine screws holding in the tumbler arm in the basket. See this view item #28 Screw, baffle
Good luck
Posted by ruskurz on Apr 14, 2009 and Posted by Guest on Apr 08, 2009
Are you still having issues? If you followed this post I got involved and did not follow up with your issues. If you think I can help post back. Rich
Look at page 20 in the SM regarding Membrane Pad Continuity Check. You could have a bad key. As you are aware to scroll thru the spin settings or the other two keys on the the left side of the console you have to depress the key and hold in or push release. if you have a OHM meter you could try a continuity check between pin 5&4 and see if you get a good open closed condition when you press the spin function key and release. Make sure you remove the ribbon cable from the control board before the measurement. You don’t want to make any OHM meter readings on the control board or you could destroy it. As you mentioned you could have a flaky control board but I would lean to the key malfunction or a corrosive path making electrical connection between pin 5&4 at the ribbon cable or ribbon cable socket on the control board. You could try the Membrane Pad Test and see if that key will pass. This machine needs to cut you a break. As part of my spare parts package I just picked up the LED console key panel on ebay for $42
Hello hudsonL
Good for you great work!!! Did your Matag repair man drop the clutch out to clean up and re-lube the clutch roller bearings? Did your clutch have the upper bearing assembly as well as the roller bearing in the clutch hub. Also if you don't mind me asking what are the 1st two digits of your serial number on the right back side of the console. Again great job. Rich
$300 will buy a lot of colds ones :) That a low end cost number for a service repair/clutch replacement.
Post to hudsonL,
That may help for a while but you may have to remove the clutch for a longer reliability down the road. Thank you for the feedback. Rich
Hello mkiservice,
This post is geared toward DIY folks with basic mechanical skill sets. Did you read my April 14 2009 comment?
If you have basic mechanical skill sets the clutch maintenance/replacement is a straight forward process it’s just a tight work area of the machine. A lot of folks have done the clutch maintenance/repair and saved a good amount of $. Visit the other FIXYA washer repair forums. When you find a washer that will service a family of four for several years with no repair cost let me know. It will be my next machine purchase. My goal and I feel most DIY folks want to extend the service life of their a $1K machine. A machine which has some poorly designed subsystems ie. Clutch, Left Hand Lid Lock, and a drain pump system that should allow protection of the drain system from ingesting pocket change and other **** from reaching the pump impeller.
Here is a my retro fit to add a measure of protection of drain pump debris. Those coins are hard on the drain pump impeller if they make past the sump cap.
From the House Wares isle of the hardware store.
Done Happy Happy Drain Pump
Again my solutions are geared for DIY folks.
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We have had the same problem with this model several times now. It stops at 11 minutes left, and we get the DC error. The first 2 times my husband disconnected the wires that attach to the mother board and the black leg in the front of the tub, and sprayed them with contact spray then reconnected them. It fixed the problem. This last time, that did not work, so after reading these comments about the clutch, he sprayed the clutch with WD40, and it is back up and going. When she'll stop again, nobody knows:)
You have a broken coupler...this is a plastic and rubber part that connects the motor to the transmission. A $20 part
Had same problem. tried to fix it but it cost to much. the best solution is to get home waranty and replace it with new one. Just dont't buy Maytag again.
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The problem is still happening. I have no idea how to change out a coupler. We have spoken with three sources on this and thus far have solutions from the coupler, to the timer, to the clutch. The washer washes fine, during the spin cycle it starts momentarily, stops, does this about 5-6 times, then the "dc" diagnostic comes on. From the manual it shows this as being inbalanced load.
Model # on my Maytag Neptune is FAV6800AWW. It was purchased in 2004.
The console is the same as shown above. I tried taking the clothes out and running a spin only with the top up. The basket starts spinning, and the tumblers only briefly rotate but then stop while the basket continues spinning. With clothes in, the tumblers turn for a few seconds, then stop, then the baskets spins for a few seconds then stops, then the whole process happens over and over again until the dc message occurs.
Took the clutch out and inspected. Put some WD-40 on the bearings, and some light grease, and re-installed. It ran a couple of loads, but a new problem - seems to stall on the same time setting like "24" and does not continue to zero. The washer makes noises, but seems to stall and the time counter does not go down. Could it be my clutch re-installation did not work properly? Any suggestions?
I have taken apart the clutch, which keeps coming off after I install it (during the run cycle). I am attaching a photo. There was a loose white pin shown) in the clutch. This fits down in the slot at the top, but the pin was not attached to the spring when I opened it up. Could it be that this white pin was originally attached to the end of the spring and broke, and that this could be my problem? The other end of the spring has a metal pin and this is attached to the spring. Again the other end of the spring has just metal and not attached to the pin. The silver metal tabs I found indicate to me that the spring broke where it attached to the white plastic pin? Does this sound correct? If so, would I need a new clutch? About how much for one? Do you think this clutch issue could have been causing the original issue of not spinning properly? Thanks.
Thanks. This is a Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AWW. Serial starts with 10268 My clutch looks more like the one on the left above. Please advise - I have taken it off so long ago, to confirm does the top shown in the photo go up when installing it in the machine? Do you think the replacement clutch noted above will work on my machine? I will try a local appliance parts shop but it may be much higher. Thanks again.
Thanks, I really appreciate the help. I have ordered the part you suggested from Appliance Zone as they say this will work on my machine and about $20 less than local. Hopefully when it arrives I can get it on so that it doesn't come back off over and over, and that this may help solve my problem. I will certainly provide positive feedback.
during spin cycle on Neptune TL, dc error (unbalanced load) at 12 minute marker
I have my new clutch - trying to get re-installed. Don't get the part about the gap between the pully face and the shaft end. I assume you mean slide it on so that the shaft does not extend all the way thru the hole and come out the bottom side of the pully? I also don't have any way to checking lbs to tighten it down. When I get it fairly tight, the white extensions on top fit tight against the bottom side of the washer and it is difficult for the pully to turn. When I loosen a little turns easier but it eventually spins back off?
I did finally get the clutch seated to stay on and I have washed several loads with no problems...I am keeping my fingers crossed that the clutch was my problem. Thanks so much.
I have a final questions for you - I have a matching Neptune dryer. It runs fine but one of the ribs/arms that is on the inside of the tub is coming loose. Any idea how to access it - probably is just a screw backing out, but not sure how to get theh front to tilt up or side off to get to it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again.
The service manual showed me exactly how to access it and it is fixed. Thanks yet again.
my neptune wont keep spinning, ive cleaned and greased the clutch, i tried the spin test mode, it runs up to 48 and shuts down, then it runs to 48 and shuts down, does anyone have an idea to what is the problem
Still having issues - I am going to try a solution found, sometime this weekend, which is try an membrane test in service mode, if I can get into that mode. I suspect either the control board behind the console has a solder bad, or some similar issue, but maybe the test can help isolate it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Note that the washer may work fine at times, then jump into the mode of the light scrolling through the spin setttings, etc.
Hello mgrey,
Can you please tell me is the machine a FAV6800AWW, I see people in the FAV6800AW washer forum asking for help with different Maytag model numbers that they don't disclose, dryers, Toaster Ovens etc.
Please look at the pic I posted of the FAV6800AW console is, this your machine type? I don’t shoot from the hip with my post. I know you want help and I can help if this is your machine type. Please verify and tell the forum the model number of your machine. With the model type a possible solution can be forth coming, if not by me then by other forum members. Thank you a fellow owner of the FAV6800AWW, Rich. Can you please tell me is the machine a FAV6800AWW, I see people in the FAV6800AW washer forum asking for help with different Maytag model numbers that they don't disclose, dryers, Toaster Ovens etc.
Please look at the pic I posted of the FAV6800AW console is, this your machine type? I don’t shoot from the hip with my post. I know you want help and I can help if this is your machine type. Please verify and tell the forum the model number of your machine. With the model type a possible solution can be forth coming, if not by me then by other forum members. Thank you a fellow owner of the FAV6800AWW, Rich.
Hello mgrey,
Are you still having the problem? You’re in the FAV6800AW forum and I’m wondering what your machine model number is and does the machine indicate an error code to the display such as dc or UC at around 12 ...?
Does your machine console look like this? Here is a pic of my FAV6800AWW console.
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