Check the coil for proper resistance. IT could be too low. Replace the coil the next time you replace the wire. The coil could be expanding and touching ground and causing excess current issue.
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Bad relay. Here's a tip. Open up the replacement relay, and thoroughly coat the thin wired coil with clear nail polish (or good 'ole varnish). Keep applying until there's a good thick layer covering the entire coil, and also coat the lead wires. Doing this will utterly prevent future burnout. BTW, you can do the same with the charging relay. The coil's wires are so thin that they burn out with the slightest overload. Coating them not only protects them from burnout, but also from corrosion... forever.
Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.
With the dryer unplugged, attempt to remove the panel that covers the heater coils...either the coils went bad or the "hot wire" lead to the coils burned up and came off, which in that case all you would have to do is reconnect the hot wire.Had this same problem with my dryer a few years back and it had a burned up lead to heater coils.Hope this helps
This is strange. I've been working on Harley's for almost 40 years and I've only run into two bad coils on the later model bikes. Are you using original equipment coils? If so, are you using the correct ones?
Coils come in different varieties for different uses. There are coils made for racing, road use, electronic ignitions, and points type ignitions. The coil you want is for road use with electronic ignition. If you use a digital volt ohm meter and test the resistance of the primary winding of the coil, it should check out at between 3 and 4 ohms. The "primary" winding is the coil of wire inside the coil that goes from one small terminal to the next. Put your DVOM leads on the small terminals, one lead on each terminal, with the meter in "R x 1" position. It should read between 3 and 4 ohms.
your speakers are 1 ohm per voice coil, dual oice coil. your amp is no lower than 2 ohms stable mono.
the proper way to wire this so that you do not burn out the amp is to run the 2 vioce coils in series. run the positive lead from the amp into the positive lead of one of the voice coils, then run a jumper wire from the same voice coil's negative lead to the same speaker's 2nd voice coil's positive input. then run from the 2nd voice coil's negative back to the amplifier's negative speaker lead.
you will be running for each speaker/amplifier set: amp + to terminal set 1 +, terminal set 1 - to terminal set 2 +, then terminal set 2 - to amp -
It's a cheap Chinese coil which burns out easily from not sparking at the right time from either a bad or non signal from the crank or cam sensor, one or even both sensors or wiring may be bad.
check and make sure the connection leading into it are producing the right voltage then check the wires leading out into the distributor. another trick that might reveal some problems is open the hood at night...with the truck running... but with a flashlight in hand. be EXTREMELY careful. turn flash light off. give your eyes a chance to adjust..and look into where the sparkplugs are...the wires...and the coil...if you spot a flicker...sparks (looks like a constant or intermittent spark) from any part of your ignition delivery system. then hopefully you can trace the problem from there. as for testing the lead into the coil...should be 12 volts... the coil is simply a transformer to bump it up to thousands of volts to generate a spark. generally 3 things ruin these coils. heat (usually only a design problem) vibration (not likely due to the fact most are epoxy filled) or the voltage simply wears away at the insulation until it fails and shorts out..thus burning out (most common problem)
If the Electrical system is grounding out, particularly the hot lead to the coil. then you will fry coils. Check your Positive leads at the fuse box for continuity to ground. 1st check the ignition wire i.e. red wire going to your coil. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil or distributor (depending where your coil is located). If it has continuity to ground, then go to your fuse box and pull out all your fuses and test each terminal for continuity to ground until you find which circuit is grounding out and polluting the rest of the positive circuitry. If it is only the ignition hot wire then you know that is where the problem is. If it is coming into the fuse block from another positive source, isolate that source by not allowing it to come into contact with + current.
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