Vibration on second floor laundry

look the really heavy duty floor pads used in horse stables very dense and thicker than anti vib because even it restacked extra weight wont stop the vibration

This is actually pretty normal for newer LG front loaders. They've done a lot of work to isolate the vibration and noise from the spin cycle, but the higher RPM's have countered those improvements. Unless the manufacturer/technician can determine that something is actually wrong, you're probably going to need to install an anti-vibration pad under the washer pedistal to absorb most of the noise. It is very likely that the subfloor is actually amplifying the vibration into the "rocket" noise that you are hearing. Try installing Silent Feet anti-vibration pads or similar to prevent this amplification of the noise and vibration.

Starting in November 2008--LG introduced "square door" model washers.
These washers will (unlike round door models) perform very well on wood floors.
If the WM2487 washer is on a wood floor--even a tiled wood floor--it will be near impossible to get smooth spin performance.
Some homeowners have had success by adding two layers of 3/4 inch wood under the washer AND dryer.
The following steps were taken:
1) Remove washer & dryer
2) Cut & remove any floor covering (bare wood)
3) Locate floor joists with a stud-finder & mark locations at the edge of the flooring--allows finding the joist locations after 3/4 sheet is laid to floor.
4) Add wood glue to floor
5) Place 3/4 inch wood sheet to floor & drive screws thru wood into joists (as many scews as deemed necessary to fully & completely compress wood sheet to existing floor
6) Add wood glue to 1st wood sheet
7) Place 2nd 3/4 inch wood sheet on top of 1st wood layer and drive screws into floor joists.
8) Add molding if desired
9) Re-install washer & dryer and level.
10) Add one heavy towel into washer tub & close door ( this will mimick an off-center load)
11) Press power "on" button
12) Press "Spin Speed" button & select high speed spin option
13) Press "Start" button
14) When * 9 minutes remaining * is displayed--use the flat wrenchette that comes with every LG washer to "tweak" the adjustment of the front leveling legs. This will allow for "fine tuning" adjustment of the front leveling leg(s) to eliminate vibration / noise during the spin cycle. The rear leveling legs DO NOT need further adjustment.
NOTE: Those with pedestals--check the front leveling legs on the washer and on the pedestals (front only) during spin.

front loaders are made to sit on concrete they probably didnt tell you when you purchased it if its on wood floor not much you can do

The recommendation by the service tech is actually a very common and very effective solution to your problem. I'm sure it was explained to you, but for the interest of anyone else reading this, I'll explain it again.

When the manufacturers first introduced the front load washers, they did not take into consideration the possible problems created by the centrifugal force of the washer's spinning action. Most of these washers spin in excess of 1200 rpms! A spinning action that fast, coupled with the washers heavy weight and a floor that flexes (even a little) will cause a resonant vibration. In simple terms, it will cause the washer to bounce or walk. Replacing the shocks with heavier duty shocks does help, but if the flooring is not substantial enough the washer will continue to have problems.

Another cause could be your pedestal. Early model pedestals had an open back which caused it to "tin can" when the washer spun. "Tin-canning" is the phenomenon of the sides of the pedestal casing waffling in and out as the weight of the washer rides on top of it. This would also cause excessive vibration. The solution: The manufacturers redesigned the pedestals with an enclosed back that would prevent this from happening (You would think they would have figured this stuff out during testing phase of manufacturing, huh?) If your washer is a later model, you will have an enclosed back on the pedestal. If there is no back panel, a stiffiner kit can be purchased and installed by yourself. All you need is a drill and a screwdriver. Instructions are included. The part number is 134682000. I found it listed at searspartsdirect.com.

Yet another possibility is the leveling of the machine. Since yours is mounted on top of a pedestal, you need to make sure you are leveling the feet of the pedestal, not the washer. If the washer is properly mounted, it is bolted to the top of the pedestal frame. You should then adjust the feet of the pedestal to ensure it level front-to-back and side-to-side.

Now...when you've checked every other possibility, its simply not the washer. Most consumers don't like to hear this (especially owner's of newer homes). The worst places you can put a front loading washing machine is in a mobile home, or an upstairs laundry room. The reason - the floors are usually not as reinforced. Even homes with a laundry room over a crawl space or basement can sometimes have problems if the floor flexes. Most home builders don't take added reinforcement into consideration for the installation of a front loading washer.

I told you ALL of this information to finally get to this point. An inexpensive way to reinforce a laundry room floor is to install a 4 x 8 sheet of heavy plywood under the washer. The plywood has to be a minimum of 3/4 inches thick and needs to be secured (screwed down) to the existing floor. This distributes the weight of the washer better. You can also safely fit BOTH the washer and dryer on top of it. A lot of people don't like this idea, because they feel it wrecks the look of the existing floor. I have seen homeowners, install a reinforcement this way and add paint and trim molding to give it that "supposed to be there" look.

You may get mixed reviews about this, but I have seen it work for homeowners. Plus, its a less expensive option than hiring a contractor to firm up your sub-flooring or joists.

I hope you find this information informative and helpful. If you have questions, please let me know.

NOTE: This problem will apply to any front loader with floor reinforcement issues no matter what the brand name is.

make sure your locknuts on your pedestal are tightened all the way up

My wife and I originally had the same problem, and it didn't help that the washroom was a slick tile floor. First add as much weight as possible to your pedestal. We have ours full of detergents, bleach, fabric softener, etc., and have several of each so that the pedestal is completely full. When mounted on the pedestal, the washer is quite top-heavy, and the added weight in the bottom helped immensely. Second, make sure your washer is level, both the feet resting on the pedestal and the feet of the pedestal itself, and tighten the secondary rings so the feet don't vibrate out of place. Last, I purchased some thin rubber padding (approximately the thickness of leather) from Home Depot in the carpet aisle. Cut some small squares and place one under each foot of the pedestal. This gives the feet some additional "grabbing power" on slick floors.

Try going to GVIINC.net - there product definately works.

Is your floor level, first thing. Okay, the rear 2 legs are not adjustable so leave it. The front 2 legs should be screwed up (ie the machine should be at the lowest level in front) and there are check nuts to tighten inside the body of the machine. Check the machine it it rocks by using your hand against it. Adjust accordingly, this is if your floor is not too good. You shd not hv any problem. If the rocking persists check inside machine, behind after getting he plug off wall, maybe shockabsorbers hv come off, springs?.....

and rate me please if helped.............