When they serviced the machine, did they include stitch samples when the machine was returned to you? If so, then it would appear the machine was working properly at the time. Verify that you are threading the machine correctly--not skipping any thread guides along the way, inserting the bobbin turning the wrong direction. Verify everything you are doing with the manual.
My suggestion:
Take it back to the technician(s) who worked on it and request that he or she address the problem. Telling you to buy a new machine is not sufficient answer. They charged you a service call and did not repair it. If there are parts or more repairs required, they should be able to tell you what it would take and cost to accomplish having a working machine. From that point, you should be able to make your own judgment whether fixing it is economical or buying new is the better answer.
There are some things you can try but without knowing more of what the machine is doing, recommendations are difficult.
For one: remove the top thread from the machine and ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading the top thread.
Install a brand new needle and verify that it is installed facing the correct direction.
Set the top tension to the midway point--this can always be tweaked.
If it is actually a tension issue, the following web sites may be helpful. Check how your top and bobbin tensions appear. If the bobbin thread still appears loose, the bobbin tension may need tightening. (The bobbin tension should have been properly set with the part was replaced.) You can try tightening the bobbin tension by turning the screw. CAUTION: mark the beginning point of the screw BEFORE making any adjustments so you can return it to the original point if things don't work. AND, turn only 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time and recheck the stitch quality between turns.
Understanding Thread Tension Threads
Manual:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwi1wKyD9__TAhVO7GMKHVOcC7sQFggmMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fjanome.com%2Fsiteassets%2Fsupport%2Fmanuals%2Fretired%2Fcomputer%2Finst-book-mc4000.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHXP9z7dWGFaVchzjicsdfYtEBAEA
SOURCE: loose stitches every 1
test it out on 2 pieces of material by rotating the wheele by hand. pay close attention to the 1" area. when you turn it by hand you can feel the area of question. is your bobbin spooled correctly. if all fails read the directions.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_1cb31da1bc8c6102
SOURCE: Janome MC 9000 Embroidery/Sewing Machine
This is the diagnistics routine for Janome 9000.
Run each test in sequence from 1 - 13, or until you find error
The results of this may not be what you want to hear, and may be why no-one has yet replied....I hope for an easy resolution for you
If you are having trouble reading this here, simply send a request via the "contact us" page on:
www.bargainbox.com.au
Martyn
SOURCE: bobbin thread bunching
I agree with brodering about the damage to your bobbin case, it should be smooth all over, as the thread travels across the top surface to form a stitch, and the small step on the underside locates it as the hook spins underneath.
Needle strikes often compromise the surface, as will the hook colliding with the under surface... and although it is possible to gently polish off the damage with fine grain wet & dry (black) sand paper (emery paper) there are limits to the success depending on the degree of damage.
While on the subject, ensure the bobbin case and hook race beneath are clean and free of lint or thread.
For a guide as to setting tensions and the rest, look here
SOURCE: My Janome my excel 23x
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of
stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need
a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The
"knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side
or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tension to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If
the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top
tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to
allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make
sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the
thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between
4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including
the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It
may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them
slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If
tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel
between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser
foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip
piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or
denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the
discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst
cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be
necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero
and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
BOBBIN TENSION:
Far
less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin
tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving
a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin
tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws
and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just
take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race
with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of
lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe
all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked)
with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty
deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it
seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need
.....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in
the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so
beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but
very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you
risk tearing your hair out !
FRONT LOADER:
....this is a
bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar
fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle
it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When
you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set
the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just
begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set
your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5
etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust
the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You
may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if
you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it
cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you
do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite
quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is
lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
OTHER ISSUES:
If
you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with
metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small
packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget
for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily
used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that
old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If
it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something
that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread,
.......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the
results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and
as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between,
because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less
compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au
SOURCE: Janome Memory Craft 9500 Troubleshooting
The solution that I found last night was the thread tension. I have never touched the dial, only had it set on 'auto." When I started playing with it, I realized the top thread should be really easy to pull through the machine and it wasn't. I started turning the dial (to 3 or 4) and the thread slid through the machine perfectly. No more birds nest! I really thought it was bobbin initially because of the horrible sound it was making.
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