I bought barska .then bore sighted my self.fire my first shot and the windage and elevation not working
I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontal Reticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)
If you have a LASER BORE SIGHT, your task has been simplified. Most of them come with a Laser reflective sighting target that allows you to see the laser dot even in bright daylight.
Set your LASER target (this is NOT the one you will fire LIVE ammo at, you will have a paper target with a black dot, 1" is good, set up that you will fire LIVE ammo at) up at 50 yards distance.
If you have a BIPOD attached to your rifle, sandbag the stock so that you have a steady platform, and unless you have an expensive bench-rest table, shooting from the PRONE position is the next best position. Whatever technique you use to shoot from, make sure that your rifle is secure and solid steady platform. You will NEVER obtain a good ZERO with you or your rifle wiggling and jumping about. Do this on a WINDLESS day for the best ZERO.
Lay down with your rifle but stay off of it for now.
Your LASER has been installed and pointing DOWNRANGE towards your target.
Still without moving of disturbing your rifle look through your scope and adjust your RIFLE until the laser is striking the reflective target in its center. Resecure your rifle.
NOW, without disturbing your rifle, adjust your ELEVATION and WINDAGE reticles until they are centered on the laser dot. You now have an approximate 50 yd ZERO. You now must fine tune.
!!REMOVE!! the LASER BORE SIGHT from your rifle. !!REMOVE THE LASER BORESIGHT!!
Load 3 live rounds of ammo, you will be firing at the PAPER target with the black dot.
Remembering and using all of your basic long rifle shooting techniques and WITHOUT taking your eye away from your scope and target after each shot, fire 3 rounds at the dot for group effect.
DO NOT fire just ONE round and start adjusting your scope. One round will tell you little, you do not want to be chasing bullet holes.
If your scope adjust at 1/4 MOA, then each click of your adjustment knobs will move your point of impact approx. 1/8 inch at 50 yds. Measure the distance VERTICAL and HOROZONTAL of the central most bullet strike of the 3 you fired and adjust your adjustment knobs accordingly.
Fire 3 more rounds. You should be in the black dot by now. If not, adjust accordingly until you are.
Once you have a GOOD ZERO at this distance, mark your bullet strikes or place a new dot on the paper and move back to the 100 yd line.
REMEMBER that now at the 100 yd distance, EACH click of adjustment of your adjustment knobs will move your point of impact up/down, right/left 1/4 inch.
Load 3 rounds, you will be aiming at, and firing at the black dot.
Again, from the prone position, make sure that your rifle is in a steady position, solid platform, make NO adjustments yet.
Using your good basic shooters techniques locate your target and black dot through the scope.
Load 3 rounds, you will shoot these rounds just as you did at the 50yd line, staying on the rifle and on the scope for all 3 rounds.
Your point of impact will be low, I do not know what cal. you are shooting but you will see that the point of impact will be low regardless unless you are shooting .50 or .338. Remembering the 1/4 inch increments, adjust your scope accordingly.
Load 3 more rounds and repeat as above. You should be in the dot but if not, simply fire another set and fine tune. Usually after 9 rounds you will have your 100yd ZERO but if it takes a few more, it is what it is.
Once you have your 100yd ZERO, loosen the set screws of your knob caps and rotate the knob until the '0' on the knob lines up with the '0' at the base of the knob, then retighten the set screws. Make sure that the knob is loose and freewheeling when you rotate it or you will be changing your zero setting.
Whatever brand/cal./wgt. of the ammo you are shooting, you absolutly must KNOW what the ballistics are for that particular ammo and at distance. You can find ballistics tables for any cal. ammo. When you go back to the 150, 200, 250,300,350,400,450 and so on, yard line and obtain your ZERO for that particular distance, use an endelible marker and write the number of clicks that was necessary both in ELEVATION and WINDAGE to obtain your zero, such as 150yd=4E(elevation)2L/W(left windage), thus 150yd=4E/2L/W, 200yd=9, and so on. This way you will always know what to adjust at whatever distance you are at.
IF, you do NOT have a LASER BORE SIGHT, respond back and I will walk you through on how to do it the old fashioned, but tried and true, 'eye through the bore' boresighting method.
Good luck. :)
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Ok by the elevation and windage dont adjust the crosshair in the scope doesnt move around? because if so this isnt going to happen. The crosshair stays dead center beacause the adjustments are so minute its not funny if you were to adjust the angle of your gun or scope by 1 degree (quite a small measurement) taht is the equivilant of 60 minutes of angle (enough to travel 1500 yards or more on most loads. the scope works in a very fine way.
how do you prepare to take a shot from zero lay it out for me
1. Insert the Bore Stud into the Stanchion while aligning the arrows as shows. Insert the assembled scope guide into the muzzle of your rifle with the grid pattern upright.
2. Select the Aperture Cap that fits your objective rim. Place it over the objective end of your rifle scope and press until it fits flatly against the rim.
3. Using the Adjustable Scale measure the top of your rifle scope tube to the center of the rifle bore as follows: Open the rifle breach. Rest the upper arm of the scale on the scope tube before or behind the windage and elevation turrets. The scale markings should be facing towards you reading vertically and ascending from bottom to top. Slide the lower end of the scale up or down until it is touching the center point of the bore. On center fire rifles the center point will be the firing pin. On rimfire models the center will be the shell extractor. Read the number that corresponds to the indicator marked "CF". Make a note of the reading.
4. Aim the rifle toward a light, flatly lit area such as a wall or open sky. Caution: Do Not Look At The Sun As Permanent Eye Injury Could Result.
5. While keeping the riflescope at the right distance to see the full field of view, sight through it on the grid pattern. Move the stanchion right or left until the bold centerline is parallel to the vertical reticule wire. Turn the windage dial right or left until the vertical reticule is aligned with the grid centerline.
6. Use the reading from the scale to align the horizontal reticule wire. Find the numbered horizontal grid line that corresponds to the number on the scale. Turn the elevation dial right or left until the horizontal reticule wire aligns with this corresponding grid line.
7. To make your final zeroing adjustments remove the scope guide from the bore of your rifle.
WARNING: FIREING YOUR RIFLE WITHOUT REMOVING THE SCOPE GUIDE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR RIFLE AND OR CAUSE YOU INJURY
At a range or other safe area test fire a group of three rounds of the same type ammunition at a target at least 50 yards away. Refine your scope alignment by adjusting the windage and elevation dials. Move to your desired distance from the target and test fire another group and make your final windage and elevation adjustments.
8. Restore the stud tension by pressing the end of the spring.
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Yes i belive the crosshair is broken, because it allows me to adjust the knobs but the elevation and windage has no changes when i look through the scope.
Hi,
Im post this to ask for a little clarification of your problem. Why are your Elevation and Windage Knobs not working? Are they physically unable to move? do they adjust way to far as far as your concerned?
do the knobs turn but the bullet fire into the same point each time? (broken corsshair from too many turns??) (has a young kid got a hold of it?) please clarify and id be happy to help
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