SOURCE: GE agitator does work
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.
Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to do some combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.
SOURCE: GE washer GNSR2140A0WW wont spin/agitate but fills and drains
Hello, your problem is going to be with the lids switch, in this machine it is going to be a magnetic contact. You can confirm this my pulling the front panel off and accessing the wireing to the lids switch, If you have electrical knowledge bypass the lid switch using a wire nut and run the machine. If all is ok make sure you relpace the lid switch since it is there for a reason. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!!!
SOURCE: ge profile washer WPSR3100W1WW won't agitate
I see this pretty regular. You have a bad transmission. This is very common with the older GE's. To replace the transmission will run around $340 / $400. Not sure about your area. Just be glad you got this much use out of it, you are one of the very few that have. From 1998 till 2007 I owned my on repair company where I did GE's warranty work in my area for them. During that time period. When I found a GE washer under warranty doing what you are describing. GE would warranty the whole machine. They would have me destroy the machine after I would deliver the customer a band new one. GE knows they had a bad transmission and it cost them a lot of money. It was cheaper for them to replace the washer than have me repair it. The transmission list price was $298.00 back then. A word of advice, when you replace it. Buy a Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag. These brands hold up the best. I have the least service calls for Whirlpool and Kenmore. Both are made by the same people. Kenmore is made for Sears. Good Luck.
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SOURCE: GE washer model WJRR4170E1WW won't spin or agitate
.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.
The
first thing to check when your GE washer is not agitating, is the belt.
Let me tell you how to check the belt & the clutch with out having
to take the washer apart.
The belt: Set the timer in the spin cycle and pull the timer knob to turn the washer on.
If
the washer drains the water and then spins the way that it should, this
tells you that the motor, belt & clutch are not the reason why your
washer won't agitate.
A broken belt could be the reason your washer is not agitating or spinning.
The agitator: After making sure that the belt, motor & clutch are working ok, lets check the agitator.
The
agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the
transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the
transmission shaft.
Too much
usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator
coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled
to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is
not agitating.
The clutch: A
bad clutch could also be the reason the washer won't agitate or spin.
Usually when the clutch is bad the washer will be noisy, like when you
have bad brakes on your car.
The transmission: The
transmission could be the reason your washer is not agitating. A common
problem with the transmission is oil leaking right on top of the motor
pulley and the belt.
As you
can see, there could be different reasons why your GE washer is not
agitating. You just need to keep checking each part until you find the
problem and replace the part responsible.
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