Dv210aew/xaa Dryer has no air blowing in from the rear of the drum in any setting. I thought it was a heater issue but upon checking (and making sure I wasn't in Air Fluff mode) I determined that no matter the cycle, there's no air being blown into the drum.

on the blower housing there's a thermistor that takes the place of the cycling t-stat,if that's not working correctly the dryer will run to hot or not hot enough,also check the duct that the lint filter slides down into,make sure that isn't clogged with lint,then run the dryer with the vent line disconnected to make sure there isn't anything blocking it,how long is the vent line?if it's a long run i stick a leaf blower into it and blow the stuff to the outside,you should take the dryer apart and clean it at least once a year and blow out the vent line so things like this don't happen,part number for thermistor is DC32-00007A.what thermal fuse are you changing there's one on the heater box and one on the blower wheel housing if it's the one on the blower wheel housing you could still have a block in the vent line or a thermistor problem,if it's the one on the heater box you could have a bad high limit that's the t-stat next to the thermal cutoff on the box,one more thing when you changed the element did you buy the whole part with the t-stats,if not if you ever have a problem with the element buy the whole thing you get the element and t-stats together and you just pull the wires off and change the whole heater.if the vent isn't clogged and you changed all the t-stats and it still pops you could have a bad computer board,do this,when you change the thermal fuse,start it with the vent line disconnected,put it on air fluff and start it,if the heater comes on the element is shorted one of the coils are touching metal,if the heater doesn't come on run it with the vent line still disconnected and see what happens,those t-stats are pretty reliable but one could be bad but the board could be the problem but the dryer is running to hot and popping the thermal fuse,use a watch to time it,when it starts with no clothes the heater should stay on for no more than 3 to 4 minutes,then it should shut down,for a minute to a minute and a half and come on again but now it should only stay on for like 50 to 60 seconds and shut down.sorry to make this answer so long but without being there i'm just trying to tell you what i would check.let me know what you find,keep an eye on how long the heater is staying on if you think it's on for to long while you're checking it stop it and put it on air fluff to cool it down so you don't cook the thermal fuse again

here is the manual for your model. good luck
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/DV210AEW/XAA

Hello,
I have a good idea that it may be the following;

Drum Roller Axle

This dryer has drum support rollers. There will always be two supporting the rear of the drum, and on some models there may be two supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the roller axles are worn out the rollers may not spin freely which can overload the motor and the dryer stops. If the dryer stops mid-cycle, remove the belt and spin the drum, it should spin freely. If not, check the rollers and roller shafts.
You can check out other possibilities and order parts here using the following link;
http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/2---/Dryer-stops-turning-during-cycle

Good Luck!
Rich Lilja

Door switch and heating element

More than likely the element is shorted or the thermal cutout on the element assm has failed you can test them for continuity if they don;t have continuity they are bad. 1st reset your house breaker, the dryer needs a full 220volts to turn the heater on, if that is good check the cord and make sure you haven't lost 220 there, then check the element and cutout.

i would take the plug panel off the back and make sure you are getting the full 220 volts on the terminal,, (it could be in the cord itsself), if that is not your issue, it might be your main board, since it is new i wouldn't tear into it because it will void the warranty

check the thermal fuse on the top of blower wheel housing,also while your there take off the cover of the housing and clean all the lint out,if your fuse was popped the lint buildup did it,check outside and make sure the air from dryer is blowing out and is not blocked,if it is blow out vent line if it's a long run with a leaf blower,if the thermal fuse is good read out the heater with a meter and if that's good read out the t-stats

remove frt cvr,then top then remove drum belt and drum, check for open heater element, defective thermal fuse,hi-limit switch, open neutral to element if it uses the neutral connection

If there's heat inside the drum the heater coils should be ok, however your model has 2. With the door open and the machine running, look inside at the back of the drum and look for 2 glowing element coils. If one is not working you will not have enough heat.
Check the exhaust vent, make sure it's not kinked or squished behind the machine and that the outside vent is not clogged with lint. You should feel air blowing freely to the outside.
If there is no heat, first check for 240V at the outlet. If you have 240V, it could be the element, the hi-limit thermostat, the thermal cut-off, the timer, the motor or a wiring issue (loose or shorted).
Good luck!.