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Where do you keep the fridge? If you keep it outside then most likely the condensor coils in the freezer may be freezing over and the only way to fix that is to keep it above 40 degrees outside the fridge.
If you have a frost free refrigerator then temp jumps as you discribe are somewhat normal during a defrost cycle. However it sound like your defrost temp may be getting too high. There is a limit thermostat on the freezer coils that keep the defrost temp from getting too high. The part is called a (defrost termination thermostat) and is a round disk about 1 to 1.5 inch in diameter clipped to the top of the freezer coils with 2 wires coming out of it. When cold, it allows power to the defrost heaters. At around 35/40 degrees it opens and shuts off power to the heater. 35/40 degrees sounds high for a freezer temp but that is behind the wall and only for a short time. Yours may be staying on too long or out of temp calibration needing replaced.
If the bottom freezer section of the Gladiator Freezerator is thawing out the usual cause is from the coils in the back of the top refrigerator section being iced up. The ice blockage prevents the fan from circulating cold air into the bottom freezer section. These units have a design flaw due to the defrost drain freezing up preventing water from draining out from under the coil. The long-term solution is to remove the back wall of the refrigerator section to get to the coil, thoroughly defrost the coil making sure the drain tube is clear, then wrap a couple turns of #12 or #14 copper house wire around the bottom of the defrost heater element and run it a few inches into the drain tube. Advise unplugging the unit when you do this.
I've had this fix on my Gladiator for a couple years and it has been working perfectly ever since. The freezer stays a constant 0 degrees F and no more thawed out food.
I would think it is a defrost problem that is the first symptoms on most refrigerator. Look inside the freezer is ice building onone of the walls like this PHOTO? Can you locate the model number around the fresh food section door? With the model number I can see if there is a defrost timer, ADC or motherboard controlling defrost. Thanks for a model number. If I cannot help someone will with a model number to go by, Thanks Sea Breeze
You made a bad choice. Will cost more to repair than to buy a replacement. You may never get the mold to stay away also. My advise get rid of it. Sorry.
I would look for a ventilation problem. If the fridge is working at that level nothing wrong with electric. The unit needs air to move up and out the top to make the freezer work. It sounds like the air is only moving the wrong way out the lower vent. Careful it could just be a birds nest but it may be a large wasp nest blocking the roof opening.
I have the same refrigerator and the SAME problem. The freezer unit didn't work at first (for about a week) and then it started freezing solid with not way to control the temp. When that happened, the refrigerated section stopped working and has not worked since (two months). Help!!
Unless specifically made for use in a garage most units won't work properly. The owners manual should say what the temp range for proper operation is (usually 55F is the low range). This is because the refrigerator section doesn't need to be "cooling" to maintain 37F if the temps on the outside are below 55F. These things are made to work in a 70F room and will not work properly if under 55F. Stupid thing thinks it's cold enough so it will never turn on, the refer section will stay cold/cool due to outside temps but since the compressor never runs the freezer will just be the same temp as the refer section (at best). Sorry, but in order for a freezer or refrigerator to work in an unheated space it must have the temp control device controling the freezer section NOT the fresh food section. In other words, that model will not work in a garage unless the temps are above 55F always.
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