Dishwasher fills with water by its self.

Yes, the valve is not closing completely and is allowing water into unit. Till you replace it just shut off the water to the dishwasher.

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If water slowly fills in the tub when not in use.

a) Most likely your machine inlet water valve not seating properly and closing. Change the machine water valve.

b) May be sink drain water back flowing to the tub. But you have checked that.

So it has to be the machine inlet water valve.

Hello ddux97 - I understand your dishwasher has power but will not fill with water. Here are a few simple troubleshooting tips that may help you resolve this issue:

• Make sure water supply is turned on. (First check for shut off valve under the kitchen sink).

• Check the house circuit breaker or fuse box, reset circuit breaker or replace fuse.

• Check inlet hose and make sure it's not twisted.

• Does float overfill protector (mushroom shaped object in tub) move freely? This is located in the bottom left front corner of the dishwasher.

• If this is a new install, then make sure the unit is not pressed up against the cabinet and the fill tube is not squeezed closed.

• Make sure the electrical wires going to the water inlet valve have not come off. It is best to turn off power to the dishwasher before reconnect wires, it doesn't matter which terminal is off both need to be connected.

• Make sure the drain hose is installed correctly. If the drain hose is routed under the floor as the dishwasher fills water can be drawn from the tub and appear to have never filled.

• Some models of Frigidaire dishwashers use a water pressure switch that will shut off the water valve if the tub over fills. These models do not have floats.

I hope these troubleshooting tips help you in some small way.

Slow fill of water is due to the strainer clogging. Strainer is located on the body of the machine where the inlet water hose is connected.

Clean all the water flow tubes in the machine.Clean the solenoid valve opening also.

Your water valve is going bad and not sealing off after done. Replace water valve located under left front corner of unit.

I rethought your problem and will provide a generic answer that is common to your brand of DW....

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and good day...Thanks for rating my effort......thanks....The Fang.

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

In order for you to see the diagrams..here is a great link...anyone can use....

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html..you may need to scroll down to get to where you need to be...but these issues are GE specific...and there are other related issues you can see here.
I have all this material in a vast data bank of my own but it is PDF format which does not translate well to these medium.

Good luck and good day...please rate my effort.....The Fang.

Hope this

Some water always remains in the bottom of the DW (al least with most DW) but here is some help....

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and ggod day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.

I also have an Asko D1716 dishwasher. The water stopped flowing. I replaced the water inlet valve and I have another problem, but the replacement of the fill valve is now letting in water. You can call Asko at 1-800-898-1879 to order the parts. If you order from Asko, I'm told you have some warranty on the parts. Anyway, the screws take a star drive and there is a front plate and back plate you will need to remove. There are approx. 4 screws on the front and 4 screws on the back. Just remember to unplug it before starting any work. The fill valve is in front of the machine. There are 2 screws holding it in place from the front. You will need to remove it out the back though to replace it since the fill tube to the tub is short and it wont allow you to pull it out the front. The repair is really easy once you get started.

Hope this helps,

Sargeantfod

Is the water clean water or dirty water? This may sound like an ignorant question, but it can make a difference. If the water is clean water, it sounds like you could have a bad fill valve. If the dishwasher is filling with water when it is not running, chances are the fill valve is leaking. The valve is closed when the float switch senses the tub filling to a certain level. The valve is also closed when not energized by the control board during drain, drying and off cycles. However, if the valve diaphragm is not seating properly when closed, it will continue to leak by. That's probably why you don't notice it while is running and it has a chance to fill during the night when not in use. Here's what to look for: With the dishwasher off, take a towel and dry the tub as much as possible. Now, locate the fill port where the water comes in (usually on the left hand side of the tub). Watch this fill port closely for several minutes to see if water is running in. It could be as minute as a trickle or drip. If any water is coming in at all, the fill valve should be replaced. Now, another problem that can occur is when you notice dirty water staying in the tub or overflowing. This is usually caused by a bad check valve in the drain pump that's allowing water to leak back from the sink into the tub. Or, you do not have a high loop in the drain line. Here's what to look for: Check to make sure the drain line has a high loop as it leaves the dishwasher and before it gets to the drain pipe at the sink. That is, make sure the drain hose is looped above the trap in the sink and not laying under the sink somewhere. You can also try filling the sink with water and open the dishwasher door. Drain the sink to see if anything is getting fed back into dishwasher. If you see water starting to fill in the tub, chances are you could have a bad check valve. Some dishwashers have a check valve in the drain pump, while other models have the check valve located in the drain hose itself. Some don't have one at all. That's why the positioning of the drain hose can be important. Good luck to you and I hope this may help. If you determine a cause, post back with comments if you need advice on how to replace anything.