The capacitive screen do not respond pandigital supernova what can i do?
If the screen is cracked, the capacitive traces are broken. In that case, you will have to replace the touch-screen part of the display.
Sometimes touch screens will fail to detect fingers with very dry or dirty skin. Try washing your hands and rubbing them with skin moisturizer lotion. Also, if the screen is heavily contaminated, the signal may be dispersed by whatever is on the screen. Put some isopropyl alcohol on a lens cleaning paper or facial tissue, and gently wipe the screen clean.
The next step is to determine whether it is a hardware or software problem. If your tablet can have its software uploaded through an external (e g., USB port) connection, get the latest operating system and install it. If that works, it was software. If not, then you have a hardware issue. It could be as simple as a bad connection at the touch screen connector (fix: unlatch the connector, remove the ribbon cable and gently clean the contacts on the cable end with a clean soft white pencil eraser). It could also be a failed screen scan circuit on the logic board (worst case), so you would have to replace the logic board. If it comes to that, try to do a remote sync/backup to another device first because otherwise you will lose any personal information or applications stored in the logic board flash memory.
Note 1: the electronics inside the table are vulnerable to damage from static electricity. If you open it up, be careful not to touch the circuitry with your fingers unless you can identify a circuit ground connection you can use to first discharge any static electricity.
Note 2: I have not seen this tablet model before, so any references to internal construction (screen connector) are generic and based on what in my experience is the most likely design. There are several designs for flat cable connector latches. Before you try to unlock the cable, Examine the connector (using a magnifying lens if necessary) to determine how it goes together. One design uses a flip-up tab that runs across the cable; it's hinged on each end of the connector. A similar design has the tab on the other side of the connector from where the cable goes in. In both cases, the hinge pins are toward the center of each end of the connector. Be careful; these tabs can be quite delicate. My favorite tool for unlatching hinged tabs is an expired credit card with one end filed to a 30 degree knife-edge. Cut the card end to the same width as the connector tab if necessary, then use it to wedge the tab up. A third design has a sliding collar that either goes all the way around the cable, or between the cable and the circuit board, Slide the locking collar away from the main connector body along the cable. Be very careful to pull it evenly, and do not move it more than a couple of millimeters. The barbed locking pins on the collar are easily broken, and it is difficult at best to get a broken collar to properly latch again.
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