Washer gets through wash mode but will not go thru spin cycle. I see that this has been a problem for many. I have opened top lid and taken off front panel. The pulley will turn in one direction fine but when turned in the other direction it eventually wont turn anymore. Do you think my problem is the clutch or something else?
Hello c bellone,
If you rotate the clutch pulley by hand CW the tumblers should rotate in the wash basket. If you rotate the clutch pulley CCW the tumblers will rotate until the clutch spring comes under tension then the wash basket will begin to turn CCW and the tumblers will stop rotating because the transmission rotates with the wash basket. Do you have this action?
The clutch has been an issue for many are you taking dc or UC errors to the display? This clutch incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing (one way clutch bearing) designed to rotate freely CW and lock up CCW to rotate the spinner shaft in spin cycle rotating the wash basket/transmission CCW. You are halfway thru the clutch removal process, I would drop the clutch out and inspect the roller clutches, clean them up with WD-40 and some light bearing grease. If they are rusted up beyond clean up and or the clutch spring is broken as in this post you will have to replace the clutch. You will know what you are up against once the clutch is out and opened up for inspection.
Here is the process I use for clutch removal;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
My clutch open up for clean up.
My machine is a series 16 S/N first two digits are 16. If you look at the pic’s you will see the two clutches are identical. My series 16 machine did not have the upper roller clutch bearing assembly. See the side by side comparison as I open up the two clutches below. I see no reason to purchase a clutch that cost $135 to $175 price range. The clutch on the left is this Clothes Washer Clutch - 25001169 the clutch on the right is my original. I bought this clutch just to see if it would work in my Series 16 machine it does and I feel it will work in all FAV6800A/FVA9800A machines. My series 16 did not use the upper roller clutch assembly.
Clutch on the left is my oridinal clutch which continues to work after clean up and re-lube. 
Post back if I can help with anything. What are the 1st two digits of you serial number?
Correction clutch on the right is my original clutch.
This write up is my understanding of how this clutch system works in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW. I could be wrong and would invite any comments from the forum to help me better ubdrstand how the clutch works in wash and spin cycle;
The clutch in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing. This roller clutch bearing will allow one-way rotation freely in clockwise rotation. The FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW washer uses a reversing motor which has power supplied by the motor controller. In wash cycle the motor controller powers the motor to produce clockwise rotation which turns the clutch pulley CW. The Roller Clutch Bearing spins freely in the CW direction so only the agitator shaft will rotate driving the transmission to rotate the tumblers. In spin cycle the motor controller powers the motor CCW. This rotates the clutch pulley CCW and the Roller Clutch Bearing locks up and drives the spinner shaft CCW. At the start of a spin cycle the tumblers will rotate ¼ to ½ turn of rotation and no more as the clutch spring is wound to tension. Once the spring is wound to tension the spinner shaft begins rotating the spinner plate which rotates the transmission and wash basket CCW. Because the transmission is spinning at the same rate as the wash basket the tumblers do not rotate. I feel this will happen if the clutch spring is broken and in spin cycle the wash basket will not spin and the tumblers will rotate.
Does your clutch use the upper Roller Clutch bearing and well as the Roller Clutch bearing in the clutch pulley hub? If so does it look like the clutch on the left side of the pic in this post? Getting the fitment of the upper roller clutch bearing the spinner shaft coupler and the clutch pulley is tricky the key to proper operation. My series 16 (1st two digits of my serial number) doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch bearing assembly. This forum member summarized very well the fitment process to get the proper gap you will feel on the spinner shaft when the Upper Clutch Roller bearing, spinner shaft coupler and clutch pulley properly fitted back on the spinner shaft. How did the Roller clutch bearings and clutch spring look?
“”The Service manual download was very helpful because it has a few pictures to show the 1/16"-1/8" gap from the shaft to the clutch face. What this really is telling you is that "if" you get all the three parts (clutch plate- bearing sleeve and cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections) to the clutch assembly back in correctly, you will end up with the 1/16"-1/8" gap. I also did my repair by tilting the machine back and working on it in place. Test the fit of each of the 3 pieces seperately so you will have a better idea what you are trying to fit. The cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections "seats" into the bottom of the tub. The bearing also seats onto the shaft in the notches. The clutch simply fits on the square shaft. The trick is getting the 3 piece assembly on with every piece seated correctly. By no means impossible, but working in limited space it was the most difficult part to do. Something that I thought of (after the repair) was to actually cut out the sheet metal directly below the clutch. This would allow easy access for the reassembly.’”
I believe your original clutch uses the upper bearing piece is that correct? As pipespike states you have to get the fitment of the upper bearing assembly the bearing sleeve I call it the coupler and the clutch seated properly to get that 1/16"-1/8" gap shown in the Service manual page 47.
If you want to hook up on the phone just e-mail me at [email protected] and I will forward you a contact number. I’m off today and available now 11AM East Coast to hook up with you. Comment me back in this post, the Yahoo account is only used for incoming e-mail and I don’t monitor. Rich
I believe your original clutch uses the upper bearing piece is that correct? As pipespike states you have to get the fitment of the upper bearing assembly the bearing sleeve I call it the coupler and the clutch seated properly to get that 1/16"-1/8" gap shown in the Service manual page 47.
If you want to hook up on the phone just e-mail me at [email protected] and I will forward you a contact number. I’m off today and available now 11AM East Coast to hook up with you. Comment me back in this post, the Yahoo account is only used for incoming e-mail and I don’t monitor. Rich
Hello c bellone,
Did you inspect the clutch spring and clean up the Roller Clutch bearings? Here is a pic of a normal clutch spring removed. Make sure the spring retaing ends are not broken off. 
Does the spinner shat coupler roate freely CW in the Roller Clutch Bearing upper assembly and the Roller Clutch Bearing in the clutch pulley hub.
""dh1200s,
When i put the old clutch back on i cant get pulley to spin freely. If i back the clutch pulley bolt off a little it spins freely. I ran machine and the belt moved a little and then locked up and began to screech. Any suggestions?"" Sorry c bellone I'm bouncing back and forth between other forum members. I feel you have some binding in you clutch reinstall. Follow the reinstall comments in quotes above, If the clutch pulley is seated properly then you should beable to lift the lid and rotate the wash basket with one finger CCW with very little resistance. If it offers resistance the clutch pulley is binding and not seated properly. If the clutch pulley spins off it was not seated properly. When you get that that 1/16"-1/8" gap shown in the Service manual page 47. the clutch pulley is seated properly. Rich
Post back to c bellone ,
How are you making out? Did you get the clutch installed back in your machine
Hello c bellone ,
We had a good day with this poster jpdarrish with this problem who had a frozen Spinner Shaft coupler (my name for it) frozen with rust in his upper roller clutch bearing. Does that coupler spin freely CW in both the upper and clutch hub roller clutch bearing? I believe you machine may use that upper roller clutch bearing, can you verify? Tnx, Rich
×
I have replaced the clutch on my maytag FAV6800AWW and I'm still getting the same message error which is uc & dc. Any suggestions.
Clutch issue and possible time for a tub seal replacement
Google this for a post that covers the Clutch removal and inspection/repair;
""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW"" you will find the Service Manual in post 5 of that sticky.
Google this for Outer Tub bearing rebuild;"" FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement""
If you machine is a FAV6800A or FAV9800A don't worry about the last two letters of the model number.
Google this; Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW
This is a DIY Appliance repair forum and you can get the Service Manual and repair support at that site..
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
If you need help post in the Maytag/Magic Chef/Admiral/Jenn-Air forum with your issue and we will try to help.
1,785 views
Usually answered in minutes!
dh1200s,
When i put the old clutch back on i cant get pulley to spin freely. If i back the clutch pulley bolt off a little it spins freely. I ran machine and the belt moved a little and then locked up and began to screech. Any suggestions?
I am waiting for my new pulley which I should receive on monday. I have to say a BIG thanks to dh1200 for all the advice. I would have surely been out a hecka of a lot more dough if he hadn't built my confidence up. I'll let you know once the machine is back up and running.
Curt
×