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Actually Beyerdynamic in Germany will NOT help you out.I need replacement foam pads for my DT 441. Beyerdynamic won't sell me some because there are authorized dealers in New Zealand. However, all of the authorized dealers in New Zealand can get only new product to sell and cannot source replacement parts.
Hey, this might be too late to help you, but I figured I'd share in case anyone else came across this while looking for help (as I did).
There's a small inner ring that the edge of the foam ear pads wraps around, but you can't really fit it under there while it's attached to the earpiece. The solution? I used something thin (specifically a nail file) to remove this "ring". It actually seems designed to pop on and off. I was then able to easily wrap the foam ear pad around the ring, then re-attach the ring to the rest of the earpiece.
Hope that helps!
It rather depends where the break is. If it is one of the single strands, near to the headphones, you might be better replacing the entire cable. If this is the case you will need to remove the foam pads and then you should see access screws to get inside and solder the new leads on.
If lower down in the twin cable part, then you can cut it off before the break and solder a new 3.5mm plug on. The two coloured wires in the cable fit on the small lugs of the plug (you will have to work out which is left or right, by trying them on each lug. The other wires are earths, which fit together on the large metal flange. The T piece part of the large flange grips the black cable, to stop it pulling out. PS make certain you put the plastic body cover of the plug on the wire before soldering on the plug. That you just slide it back on the plug. Make certain the wires on the plug don't touch the earths and also the left and right don't short.
Once you have the plug on, you can buy an extension cable for headphones. This will make it long enough to use.
My jack plug lead got yanked and broke the wires inside the electronics unit. There are three screws to undo in order to get inside the electronics, one by the cable entry and two very small cross head scvrews in deep holes halfway along the unit. I cut the jack lead on the outside close to the cable entry and drilled out the hole through the cable guide and then poked the jack cable back through the hole into the electronic unit. I was able to solder the three leads to their respective pads. There are five solder pads next to the cable entry. With the cable entry at the top, the middle pad connects to the green cable, the rightmost pad connects to the red cable and the copper connects to a pad about 1 cm down from the rightmost connector. The technique was to tin the ends of the leads with solder before soldering them to the pads. I used a blob of glue from a glue gun to hold the cable in place inside the electronics unit. My plan B if the soldering was not possible was to take a jack plug and lead from an unused set of earpieces and use that lead in place of the original. It would have been much more difficult to replace the lead from the electronics unit to the headset.
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