Self diagnostics im 3 ccu boards in on a whirlpool washer repair F28 error machine will NOT step threw self diagnostics no matter gow you try it . machine gets stuck on step 1 CO which is lock the door. I believe im getting bad boards. model# wfw9400sw01

SOURCE: Duet Sport HT WFW8400TE Washer: hello i have a whirlpool duet we originally had an...

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I had same error code F11 and DL.....I sprayed the door lock (inside) with WD40......so far works OK

I had the same F11/DL problem. I tighten the two screws on the door latch and it's working great. for now

Just some part numbers to help if you need to order parts. For the GHW9200LWO Washer (Sanitary Cycle Model)- the part number for the CCU (Microcomputer or main computer) is 8181924. The part number for the Motor Control Unit (MCU) is 8182706. I did a search for the part numbers and found the CCU for $79.90 shipping included - the same part from Whirlpool was $190 plus with shipping included. I put the CCU on and my washer works perfectly again. Hope this helps someone since I had such a hard time finding out the correct part numbers. Whirlpool first sent me the MCU even though I specifically told them it was not that part but the CCU.

DL is a door lock error. This is usually an indication of a bad door latch. F11 is a serial communications error from the Central Control Unit CCU (which is your main computer). If the door latch is defective it could be generating the communications error code as well. A defective CCU can also give the same symptoms, though. Before replacing any parts, however, double check all you connections to make sure you don't have any loose wires. The least expensive of the two possible solutions would be to replace the door latch (about $50). The CCU can run between $150 and $250. Hope this leads you in the right direction.

I wanna thank all of you for your input. I had the "DL F-11" code also. My washer would run 12 minutes and then stop with the annoying beep and error codes. After learning that the "DL" was the door lock, I decided to order the part online for 50 bucks. After I placed the order I decided to take this $50 thing apart and give it a look-see. (Boys like to tear things apart!)
There is a solenoid inside that actuates the lock. My finding was that there was some hardened goo that seeped out of the solenoid. It didn't look good! I believe this to have caused an electrical imbalance that the computer didn't like, thus sending it into error mode.
Removal and installation was a snap. First I took the top off. Then to make room for my arm to get to the door-lock, I pushed the drum all the way back and held it in place by wedging a shoe in the front end. Then I pushed the drum to the side, opposite the door-lock, and wedged it with another shoe. This gave me plenty of room to reach the door-lock. Unplug the three connectors and remove the three screws from the front side of the door-lock. (Inside door at 2:00.)
Reverse order for the install!
Thanks again for your posts which led me in the right direction!

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore HE2

Let's focus first on error codes F22 and F26. Error code F22 is door lock fault and it flashes when the door lock fails to activate after 6 attempts while F26 flashes when the door switch is opened for more than 5 seconds while the door is locked or when the door is not opened after 3 consecutive cycles. Since you cannot do 3 consecutive cycles without opening the door, this may indicate that the door switch contacts are welded together. But both error codes may also indicate a malfunctioning CCU or any other component such as the motor controller unit (MCU).

Disconnect power then start troubleshooting the machine by disconnecting the MCU wire harnesses (MI3 and MS2) from the CCU then reconnect power and start the machine. If error codes F22 and F26 go away, then the MCU must be the culprit, replace it. If the error codes do not go away, disconnect power then test the continuity of the terminals of door switch harness DS2 both with the door open and close. It must have continuity, if the door lock and switch assembly is good, when the door is close and none when the door is open. Also test the continuity between the terminals of connector DS2 on the CCU and it should read open.

Proceed with the troubleshooting of the door lock switch and solenoids if the door switch contact is open when the door is open and close when the door is close. Disconnect power then disconnect the door lock switch harness from connector DLS2 on the CCU. Jump a wire between the terminals of DLS2 on the CCU then close the door firmly. Reconnect power then start the machine.

Post back the result of the tests and your observations about the behavior of the machine as you do the tests. It will help determine which part is causing the problem.

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SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 stopped mid-cycle. When

This appears to be a problem with the MCU and not the CCU as what has already been found. First, make sure the serial communication connection between the MCU and the CCU is intact, clean, and snug fit. But it seems that you have done all that. The one and simple way to determine whether it is the MCU or CCU is disconnecting the serial communication connection between the two then starting the machine or running the diagnostic test.

The problem is indeed the MCU if the machine seems to work fine with the MCU disconnected except for motor powered functions or the diagnostic test progresses successfully but eventually flashes F28 code (or any other code pertaining to a motor or MCU problem) after the dispenser motor, dispenser contact, hot water inlet valve, and pressure switch test or when the test enters the MCU and motor tests. Replace the MCU then. The problem is the CCU or both if the machine still behaves the same after the MCU is disconnected. Replace the CCU then the MCU if the machine behaves the same after the CCU is replaced. This troubleshooting technique has worked for me all the times the symptoms are like yours and it turned out to be the MCU.

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