Clothes are still soaking wet after spin cycle in Maytag Neptune MAH5500B washer. The washer spin speed is erratic. When I perform the Quick spin test self-diagnostic it works fine sometimes, but maxes out at 650rpm other times. I have jumpered and replaced the inertial unbalance switch, and the two tub displacement switches - something else in limiting the spin speed. Is there a machine control board function that could be causing this?
CHECK THE PUMP. I had the same problem and after removing the pump (fairly easy) found a clump of stuffing from a hole in a quilt jammed in the impellor. After removing and installing the then cleaned out pump it worked perfectly. Suggest using a regular stainless steel hose clamp in place of the factory clamp that is hard to put into position on the hose to the pump. Be sure to put the clear plastic bag back in place over the pump assembly to protect the pump from water damage.
Or the stater motor on the back has lost a phase
because one of the windings has shorted. If the cycle sounds normal and
it doesn't sound like it's struggling then the problem is probably not
going to be related to the motor. I've found most of these cases to be
related to the control board itself.
good luck
HI. your machine has a motor control board that is seriously malfunctioning at this time. this is a simple solution. simply replace this board and it will bring balance to your unit. this board is very important to the spin cycle and, if its malfunctioning, it will not spin in a proper manner and, the main board(control board) will not operate the spin cycle properly as well.
Maytag Part Number: 22004046 (Motor control board)
The spinning motor shud have a capacitor change it , all will be well , may be it is going bad that is the only thing that controls speed of the motor
pls get back to me for more help and results
here is the answer to ur problem
May be Q6 is damaged or R11 due to faulty wax motor becoz it is a manufac defect in the motor see this link
for answers and repair tips
http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/P...
please rate me well ! if u got help
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When in diagnostics in the quick spin test, the board is not looking at the out of balance circuit. This test should always be done with an empty tub so no damage is done if the load is in fact out of balance.
There is a little plastic "box" on the machine control board. Is houses a devise which senses vibration. It selects the optimum spin speed above 500rpm based on load balance and floor conditions. Under actual conditions, max spin speed is more likely to occur on a hard or cement floor, and a lessor spin speed on a cushy or wood floor.
The machine control board is also looking at tach and torque signals from the motor via the motor control board.
The machine control board must also see that the door is locked. This is measured from P3-8 to P8-2. You are looking for 24vdc. If this voltage is intermittent, replace the door latch assembly.
I have made a few attempts to offer assistance on your problem but the call was always locked out by someone else..Let me know if you still require further information. You already know your machine does not have a motor coupler. The motor does not have a run capacitor and speed is regulated by the motor control board.
You have a 5500B model so the latch is controlled by a solenoid, not the wax motor.
We may be looking at a tach/torque issue with the motor. Talk to me.
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Please make sure that the load is balance. Do not overload the spinner a swell.
Hope this helps.
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
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prior advice was not tailored to my front-load maytag machine.
Thanks for the advice! I think we're getting somewhere.
My washer is located on a concrete slab.
As you suggested, I monitored the voltage to the door lock during spin and it is a steady 23.3 vdc - only 0.1 V fluctuation when the drain pump starts/stops.
Here's more detail on the spin cycle behavior:
- Say spin cycle starts with 7 mins remaining. The tub starts increasing spin speed up to couple hundred rpm. While still increasing at less than 500 rpm (by my guess) the motor cuts-off and the tub glides to stop. Timer is at 4 mins.
- The spin cycle then resets timer back to 6 mins and tries to repeat the spin. Motor cuts-off again and tub stops. Timer resets to 6 mins and repeats.
- During some tests the machine justs stops after several of these repeat tries to complete spin cycle and the clothes are dripping wet. On occasion, the spin gets up to a moderate speed and runs for 2-3 mins completing the spin cycle - then the clothes are very damp but not dripping wet.
- I ran cycles with a new inertial switch, and with the inertial switch jumpered. That has no effect on this behavior.
request you review my 4 May posting that provides more detail on the washer behavior during spin cycle.
This problem is still unresolved. FixYa closed me out due to inactivity for 7 days but have agreed to let me repost.
Looking for follow-on help from Petroni0264, or someone specifically knowledgable in this Maytag Neptune machine.
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