Maytag dryer wont heat

Hello;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
You never explained what the problem was. Dryer not running? No heat? Dryer shutting down. It could be as simple as cleaning out your dryer hot air distribution manifold. A dryer will not run if you do not have good air flow due to lint blockage. A dryer will not run if you have a bad door switch. You can Ohm components out with a multi-meter, setting the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You should get a reading of "0" if the component is good.


1.) Dryer Door Switch - This switch replaces your dryer door's switch.

• You may need to remove your dryer's lint screen and lint screen housing before lifting its top panel to reach its existing switch.
• Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.

This Dryer Door Switch part #3406107 Cost $20.00



Dryer Door Switch - Unplug the dryer before replacing the door switch.
This Dryer Door Switch part #279782 Cost: $22.00


Thermal Cut-Off- This component is located on your heating element housing,. you may be able to access it at your hot air distribution manifold in the back of your unit.

When replacing your dryer's fuse, replace its thermostat, too. The thermostat should have prevented the dryer's existing fuse from blowing. The high-limit thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit) and the thermal cut-off fuse to 360 degrees (Fahrenheit).

Install the fuse in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation

Part #: 3977394 Cost: $33.00
Cost: $34.00
The high-limit thermostat replaces your dryer's thermostat.

• The thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit).
• Install the thermostat in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.

This High-Limit Thermostat part #3390291
Hot Air Distribution Manifold:
This is in the back of your dryer and easily unbolted. If you are plugged up with lint your unit will shut down. Remove this component and clean the lower discharge end.
So, tell me what the problem is, and I will tell you how to fix it.

Peter,
Glen Burnie, Maryland, USA

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when the dryer stops heating and the thermal fuse is not part of the heating circuit, it is part of the motor circuit. The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dryers with lint filter on the front.


Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dryers with lint filter on the front.


Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

maybe thermal or other things, this should help Tim:

fusehttp://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

push hard on breaker off till you feel and hear it click

If im thinking right, this dryer has the element in the top left corner.  This unit has two thermostats, one mounted right above the element, and the other in the lower left front mounted on the fan housing.  The one in the front is called the high limit thermostat, which means when it gets to a preset high temp, it cuts off the system until cooling occurs.  The top thermostat, mounted above the element is the operating thermostat.  It probably is one of the two thermostats.  Its a very good idea to replace not only both of the thermostats, but the fuse as well.  The fuse kit (Maytag Part# LA-1053) comes with a thermostat and 2 fuses, be sure to follow he instructions on how to determine the fuse for electric and gas.  The high limit thermostat (Maytag Part# 53-0771) is an easy replacement.  Something is causing the unit to short cycle.  Sometimes you can hot-wire the operating thermostat (use caution, severe caution if doing this, not recommended if you arent sure whats going on).  By doing this (removing the two wires from the thermostat, taping them together), you can watch and see if the element stays on longer, at least until the high limit switch comes on.  This is really not recommended, if the high limit is out, it will not be good.  Just easier to replace them both.