How do I jump/bypass the high limit switch? - Pitco Frialator 35CS Deep Fryer

Yes, they usually do have a reset

https://www.google.com/search?q=Goodman+Model+%23+GPG15709041AA+reset

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Most likely the high limit is defective. This can shut down both the pilot and main burners. You can try jumping the high temp sensor leads to see if this solves the problem, assuming it is a standard Robertshaw high limit. Do this only to test, however. Bypassing the high limit can be very dangerous if the thermostat is defective or the oil level is below the sensor bulb. If your high limit has more than two wires, you may need a wiring diagram to determine which leads to jump.

the other safety features will still work as expected. however, by bypassing the pressure switch, the heater will continue to run even if the water system is turned off. since the millivolt system requires no external power to operate, if there is a power outage, the heater will still run causing an EXTREMELY UNSAFE HAZARD. remove the jumper and do without your heater for a week.

This could be a number of things, high limit switch, temp sensor or clogged burners. If the heater does not get much use cob webs could be the culprit. To test the high limit switches you can disconnect them temporarily and use a jumper wire , if it fires and stays lit then you have found your problem. Just disconnect the 2 wires , and use a separate wire to connect the two together bypassing the switch. This is a safety feature and should only be jumped as a diagnostic tool and not left to operate this way.

Unplug the dryer or disconnect power then remove the two screws securing the top panel to the rear and slide the panel backwards and off.




Behind the drum is the thermal limiter which is wired in series with the motor.



Check the continuity of the thermal limiter and if it reads open, replace it including the high-limit thermostat located on the heater housing (also shown in the picture above). Bypass the thermal limiter for troubleshooting purposes by joining the wires together and insulating it properly. If the dryer starts and runs properly with this setup, the thermal limiter is indeed open. If the dryer still does not start, jump a wire between the COM and NO terminals of the door switch. The dryer should start with the thermal limiter and door switch bypassed, otherwise bypass the motor relay on the control board. Replace control board if the dryer starts with the three bypassed, otherwise the motor is the one at fault and needs to be replaced.

Just unplug the switch and put a jumper wire in it , that will turn the compressor on...

Yes you can jump past the limit switches one at a time. That will tell you which one is bad. Then you will need to replace it.

If you bypass the hi limit thermostat you will blow your thermal fuse within minutes. The hi limit thermostat is a bi-metal thermostat which warps when heated to kill power to the element. If its bypassed then the element will not turn off.....which will in turn blow your thermal fuse which is rated at a higher temp than the hi limit. So unfortunately it will not work.

Hope this helps _MJ_

Hi, make sure the fan is staying on before it shuts off. It sounds as though the unit is shutting off on high limit switch. For what reason I do not no. It could just be faulty. If it is a forced air as you say and the air is not as strong as it normally would be, this would cause the high limit to open. If you have a diagram or a manual on it anywhere, you can try and find this high limit switch and use a piece of electrical wire to bypass it or jump it out to see if this is the fault. They are normally located in the burner section, the probe part of it anyway. It senses the temperature of the out-put and if the fan is forcing enough heat out, and if not, off it will go. So, try and locate it and jump it out. If it continues to run then this is a safety switch and should only be left jumped out while trouble-shooting and must be replaced. If you can't find one in town, you can order one on the Internet. Check the motor also and check to see if all parts where the air flows is clean also. Get back to me and let me know what you have found and if we need to go further into it.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

It may also be the high temp switches under the 2" inlet/outlet header. The 150 degree high-limit switch sits horizontal and corrosion happens often there. But be careful removing as if the header is corroded and the switch is also, water will flow out , so be ready to bypass the heater. You will have to replace the header. Try to jumpe that switch out and I'll bet the heater fires up.