Runs but doesn't get hot the dryer is about 14 years old. Could it be the heating element or is it something else?.
Heating element can be found at amazon, click here and take a look: Amazon com kenmore dryer heating element. I hope this was helpful. Cheers
In any case, I'm glad you took the time to tell me what you thought io games
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There are several things that can cause a dryer not to heat properly. First and foremost, a dryer needs proper air flow in order to work properly. Routine cleaning of the dryer vent hose should be done periodically. I recommend once per season (4 times per year), depending on use. If you haven't cleaned the dryer vent any time recently, start here first. It could be that you have a simple clog somewhere.
Now...if you've already thought of that, you could actually have more going on INSIDE the dryer. If your dryer is equipped with a removable front kick panel, remove it by inserting a putty knife along the top seam (about 2 inches in front each side) to release the retaining clips. The panel should pull open, exposing the heating element and blower housing. On some models the heat components can be accessed by removing the back of the dryer.
Stand back and watch the heating element with the dryer running. If it is glowing and intermittently shutting off, this is NORMAL. You probably have a clog some where INSIDE the dryer. You will need to unplug the dryer and remove the air blower housing to see if it is clogged with lint. I have found these blowers so clogged that the fan gets jammed with lint and snaps off at the shaft. If the fan doesn't spin, there is no air flow and you clothes will not dry. In this case, the blower fan will have to be replaced.
If the heating element is NOT glowing, and you have verified that the dryer is not clogged, you may have a failure with any of the following components:
HEATING ELEMENT - located inside a heat box. Unplug dryer and remove connector leads from element. Check resistance of the heating element. It should be about 10 ohms. If it is OPEN, the heating element is bad.
THERMAL CUT-OUT - located on the heater box housing. Has two leads running to it. Designed to protect the heating element in an overheat condition. Check resistance to ensure it is reading something close to a SHORT (0 ohms). If it is OPEN, it must be replaced. It is highly recommended to replace the HI-LIMIT THERMOSTAT (which is also located on the heater box, closer to the heating element connectors). The two components work in conjunction to regulate the heating element temperature. If the TCO fails it is usually for a reason. It could be a simple matter of general house cleaning, or it could be a failure of the hi limit thermostat.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know what you find. Post back with any comments and/or questions.
Could you please post back comments as to why the advice given was not helpful? Instead of leaving arbitrary ratings with no comments, why not let someone attempt to help you further by providing better guidance. What have you done to fix the problem? Is the appliance now working? Do you still need assistance?
Please remove solution. I work on appliances for a living and took the time to provide a rather detailed diagnosis, followed by possible causes. I even requested to have any further questions/concerns directed to me, so I could get an absolute solution. Instead, consumer chooses to leave negative rating with absolutely no feedback.
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I found the solution to be very informative and helpful. However, I checked the resistance of the heater element and it is about 10 ohms, and is not open. The TCO resistance is about zero. What about the thermostat? No values were given to check it for, but I did check it's resistance and it was also close to zero. The thermostat sort or "rattles" when I shake it; is that normal?
I pulled the heater element out and looked at it, and can see no visible damage. Also checked the air outlet and hose - no blockage in the hose and the air output at the dryer seems fine.
What else could be causing the dryer to not heat. Have checked at all cycles and temperature settings (low, medium and high)?
I've had the same problem and we replaced the high limit thermostat that located on the bottom section of the heating element. $16 repair and it's running like new!!!
Is it worth our while when not rated! good or bad????
The motor assembly uses 110V, thus it will operate if there is a live leg on the circuit. You'll believe there should be heat when, in reality, the heater coil needs two legs of 110V to operate. If that doesn't work, carry out the checks listed above.
@happy wheels unblocked
There are many issues here that concern me. sometimes my computer crashes and I can't fix it drift boss
Ok here goes this is what I found wrong with my Kenmore Dryer 110 64112200 would not heat correctly and we quit using it (wasn't drying the clothes) The Motor Your Dryer uses most likely the same as mine on (110 series)
http://www.repairclinic.com/vwo6/PartDetail/b6p8/Kenmore-Dryer-Drive-Motor/279827/2584?modelNumber=110.64112200&fromRepairHelp=True
all these different forums and sites say You need a motor. Alternating Current Squirrel cage motors are very robust and unless locked up or a open wire coil they work, now that being said the Bottom wire on My motor plug is Red and is connecting L1 and L2 to turn on the Heating Element when the Centrifugal Motor switch is Released because the motor is up to Speed (Turning the Drum) I removed the Motor and opened the black Plug on the Motor the Switchable Contacts inside for the Heater element on the Bottom were fused together. This Condition caused my Heater Element to come on As Soon As I Plugged the Dryer in, caused the timer to tick and it also caused the motor to hum upon pushing the start Button and me having to help the motor start (Spin the Drum By Hand). The Motor would let the Drum stop as soon as the you put any clothes in the drum. The Reason is because since the Red Heater Element Wire Contacts were Welded together in the Motor Plug, when the Centrifugal switch on the motor shaft would release the switch it could not close the contacts for the Motor START Capacitor (the reason that the motors Hums, it can't start). Without the Start Capacitor the AC Motor can not start so it just hums unless you help it. Now also since I Broke the Fused contacts apart again the Motor can start and I Can not stop the Drum Motor Works Fine and the Heater element works Fine. Just some Information the Motor Centrifugal (Fly Weights) Switch is a Double Gang Switch so the motor can start, come up to speed and at the same time Close the Heater Element circuit. Hope this helps Somebody. Myself I can't see spending $82.85 for a motor I don't really need.
Msg.14.6228
I have a 100 dryer and I replaced the heater element. I have two connection points one is one wire and the other goes through the thermosat to the heater coil. Does it matter which post of the heater coil goes to what wire?
Thank you for this, I found it useful.
How do i get the front panel of a model #110.86980 off? i need to replace the door lever in the upper right corner to activate the dryer
I found this helpful although I did had already checked the heating coil, it wasnt glowing, I figured it was on of the two mentioned but I dont have the ability or tools to check the ohms. But yes it did confirm what my problem may be, thanks
SOURCE: kenmore dryer 110-86094110 wont heat. Heating
Hi, Check all the thernostats and the thermal fuse for continuity. They should all show a closed circuit. If any of them are open, it will need replaced. It is usuallly the thermostat on the top side of the element housing.
I hope this helps you. If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Vic
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
Using a multi-meter, check to be sure that you have 220 volts at the back of the dryer. If you do, unplug the dryer, take the back off and ohm out the t-stats, thermal cut-outs and element.If you can't pinpoint it to one of these then it will be in the controls or maybe the motor start switch.
ps, The dryer motor will run on 110 volts.
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: Kenmore dryer 110-66652501 runs but does not
did you clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into?you still have a block somewhere and sounds like you popped the thermal fuse part 3392519,unplug dryer take off vent line and remove the back panel,take out the 2screws on top of dryer and remove lint filter,on left side remove the 4 screws and remove the duct,clean it out,to the right of it and around 4 inches up from floor you'll see the white thermal fuse,read it out with a meter,also if you have a long vent line from the wall to the outside blow it out with a leaf blower and make sure the outside flapper is blowing fully open
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Kenmore 80 Series dryer runs but air is not heating and therefore not drying clothing. Dryer is about 9 years old. We cleared out vents and checked connections with not success.
Kenmore Ultra Care Dryer Model #110.96583120 was working good and just stopped heating. No lent build up, element not getting hot.
do I have to remove the entire front of dryer to get to the burner assy? It does not have the little rectangle area below the front loader that i have seen before. Also if I have to remove front is there any tricks I should know about?
Thanks for the helpful tips. Unit is in the 13 year old range. Only my wife & I in the household. I have visually checked the elements & they do cycle on & off as you suggested. With the dryer vent hose removed the exhaust seems very strong--the utility room heated quickly. The exhaust run is about 37 feet of solid 4" pipe (only a small flex at dryer outlet to under the floor). About quarterly I use an electrical wire pulling snake with a rag fixed to it to clean the pipe. I turn the dryer on air only & run the snake thru it until no more lint comes outside. The air flow seems rather strong.
Any other input would be extremely helpful.
Thank you
Kenmore 80 series running, drum turns, but no heat.
was working then just stoped, there was heat when it stopped, checked push start button, fuse, and door dryer button......outlet is working ....? what could it be.....?
My kenmore HE4 dryer has stopped working. I have checked current (240 at dryer), checked the heating duct sensors the blue wire continuity is okay, the red and black have nothing. what should i try next?
not getting very hot
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