Removing stuck shaft from Cabrio Washing Machine

This is a reasonably complicated procedure but with some general knowledge it can be done.
Start by removing the lid, in an open position pull upward and the lid will lift off, Then remove the 2 rubber bungs that work as the lid stops at the front sides of the washing machine, Under these you will find 2 screws, remove these screws.
You can the lift the top of the machine upward, you want to have someone hold this in an upright position or tie it up so it doesn't fall forward or backward.
The neck ring around the top of the washing machine tub is next to come off, remove the balance spring (or rubber straps depending on specification of your model), the neck ring clips on so unclip from the drum and remove.
To remove the agitator you may be able to grab the plastic top nut by hand but sometimes this takes a bit of force and tools may be required. Once undone remove the agitator.
Next step is to lift out the inner drum, This sits on the inner shaft and can be a bit tricky to remove as it can get stuck but it will come out.
Lower the top of the machine back into place.

Next you will need a soft non marking surface, You need to lie the washing machine on it's front, preferably on a raised work area (table) if possible, if no then you can stand the machine upside down for this step, just be sure to get the water out of the drum before this step to eliminate the risk of getting water in the electronics.

You need to remove the rotor next, it's the plastic rotating component of the 3 phase motor, there is a plastic nut in the middle, remove this with a 6 sided socket to avoid damage, After removing the rotor cover you will see the stator, it is attached with 4 3/8" bolts, remove these and carefully lift the motor up, while you are doing this disconnect the wires to the motor, you will see R B and Y on the motor to show which way these go when re-assembling.

The inner shaft is held in the machine by a 32mm nut, a crescent works well here, but you need to carefully grip the shaft to stop it rotating while you loosen the nut.

One the nut is off it may take a couple of careful hits with a hammer to remove the shaft from the machine.

Using a drift, chisel or similar item you can carefully drive the old bearings and seal out of the drum, be sure to change side to side when removing the bearings to make sure you don't damage the bearing locating areas.

There is a spacer between the bearings that is required so don't forget this.

Re-assembly is basically the reverse of the above, when fitting new bearings it is not always required to replace the motor shaft but you must check the area where the lip seal sits and if there is excessive wear then replacement is required, Fitting of the new bearings can be made easier if you find a socket and extension that is a tiny bit smaller than the outer bearing diameter and you can use this to make sure the bearings are fully seated, always fit the bearings (with the spacer) and the shaft before fitting the seal to avoid damaging the seal.

I hope you make sense of what i have written here and hope it helps.

The grease would end up on your garments.. replace the drive shaft and bearings, then STOP USING LIQUID DETERGENT. use only HE powder!!!
Whirlpool Washing Machine Tub Seal and Bearing Kit W10435302

Need to hit it a LOT harder. 5-7Lb hammer required.

OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.

The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.

If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.

Bearing failure in this machine is very common.

I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.

What was the condition of the bearing surface of the shaft where the seals rubs against in. Did you replace the shaft? To replace seals and bearings needs to be done properly. the bearing surface where the neoprene rubs against the shaft must be the correct size and bearing surface must be polished, otherwise the shaft's pitted surface will quickly grind away the neoprene seal's surface which comes in contact with the shaft. To replace the shaft you will need a hydraulic press to press the shaft out, as well as a good quality bearing puller. For these reasons I advise the DIY expert to avoid doing this kind of work. When the seals go, its cheaper to buy a new machine then undergo other problems associated with rebuilding a machine. Never use washing powder which accumulates and can be very abrasive to the seals. Use something like Cold Power, Green Earth or etc as a liquid detergent

Hi

In a washing machine, the bearings protect the drive shaft from over rotation due to the forces applied to the washtub.
Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet. Turn off and disconnect the washer from the water pipes. Pull the machine forward so that you have easy access to the entire machine.

Unscrew the lid's top two screws and remove the machine's top panel.

Slide out the machine's back panel.

Slide off the fan belt and set it aside.

Unscrew the drive shaft's end bolt. This is the bolt that holds the pulley into position.

Remove the pulley by placing the screwdriver underneath it and gently leveraging it off.

Remove the drum's three bolts that hold its spider bracket into place. If the bolts are sticking use, rust remover and degreaser to loosen them. Do not apply too much pressure to the brackets or you will strip them.

Tap the spider joint gently with a hammer while pulling on it. The entire joint and the bearings should slide off.

Clean up the spider shaft, removing all rust and debris using cloth diapers and rust remover and degreaser solutions.

Tap the new bearings into place.

Tap the new drive shaft seal into place. The drive shaft seal should always be replaced with the bearings to ensure water-tight protection for the machinery.

Reassemble to washer.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Any time you get a F-50 code on one of these, Whirlpool recomends you replace the control, wire harness, and RPS sensor if the tub bearing main shaft aren't binding.

Bearings in the outer tub are shot. Unfortunately, you are going to have to change out the whole outer tub as the bearing and shaft spline are one piece. Parts are about $200. I just changed mine out a couple of days ago and is not that hard if you have some mechanical ability.

OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.

The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.

If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.

Bearing failure in this machine is very common.

I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.

The new outer tub with bearing W10128830 cost approximately $197 dollars.

If you can get access to the shaft it may be an Emory cloth will help smooth things down so that you no longer get the OL code.

This is an ambitious do-it-yourself project... as most appliance repairmen don't understand how this machine operates.




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