How do I remove the start switch from whirlpool wtw6600?

the answer is probably the micro switch behind the start button . Remove power lead and remove front cover containing start button . Behind start button is probably a micro switch that needs replacing - often times an electronic repairman can replace a micro switch on a printed circuit a lot cheaper than buying the new circuit . just take it off and take it to say your tv repairman making sure there is no corrosion on the printed circuit .

F-1 has to do with sediment in the bottom of your tub or a loose water pressure hose or a hole in that hose. It is an easy fix with no parts needed. What you do is remove the small hose that connects to the water pressure switch. Blow through it to unclog any sediment in the base of the tub. Re-attach the hose and pump out any water to allow for pressure to build once more in that tubing so them fancy lectroncs won't have a cow.

I have photos manual and directions HERE



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Hi,

The washer thinks the door isn't locked so it won't start a cycle. 99% of the time the problem is with the CCU circuit board, located in the machine, top, back, plastic case. Whirlpool had quality control issues with their circuit boards and in this instance there are bad solder joints, also called cold solder joints, at the point where the spade connectors and relays (5 of them) are supposed to be firmly soldered to the circuit board. These joints control communications between the door lock and also the motor control section at the bottom of the machine (usually a F11 code will show with motor problems, the same cold solder joints are to blame for that too) The cure is to remove the CCU case with circuit board, it's easier that way, then remove the circuit board and touch-up those bad solder joints I mentioned. If your not up on soldering techniques, just remove the case with circuit board and take it along with this response to a good appliance repair shop and they should be able to help you out. The solder points to touch-up are easy to spot, they are the largest solder points on the board. In the end, the removal of the CCU case takes longer than the repair. Good luck.

HI,

The FdL code is saying that the circuit board that runs the washer (CCU board) thinks there is something wrong with the door lock. Often times it's not the door lock but bad connections at the CCU. Whirlpool had some bad quality control with the CCU circuit boards and the end result was cold solder joints at the spade connectors and the relays (there's 5 relays on the CCU board) With this repair you need to remove the circuit board from the inside, top, back of the machine. Mark all the connections before you take them out then remove the entire plastic case with the circuit board inside. At this point you can resolder those points I spoke about or take the board to a good appliance repair shop along with this response and they should be able to help you out. Good luck.

If you're getting FdL or F11 codes flashing at you, the problem is in the circuit board, inside at the top back of the machine. Whirlpool seems to have poor quality control on this item. The problem is cold solder joints where the different components attach to the circuit board. The joints where the spade connectors and the relays connect to the board are thicker joints and whirlpool didn't get enough solder to flow into those joints. You can remove the board (remember where the wires go) and touchup these joints yourself or remove the board and take it to a competent appliance/tv type repair shop and they should be able to do the job. Also, the plastic enclosure for the circuit board is pretty crappy (made from the wrong grade plastic) so little tabs may break, be careful.

Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display and completely cancel the cycle

flashes if the washer loses power during a running cycle. The washer does not flash "PF" when it is first plugged in.
Press START to continue the cycle from the moment that power was lost

been there and done that on these machines.If your sensor hose is ok and you have already replaced the control.The only thing left is the outside tub.I had one do that and Whirlpool tech line told me to check sensor hose and control.Changing the outside tub cured the problem.I hope you are still under factory warrentee because that tub is about 200.00

My boss's washer has the same problem, located the tech manual inside the washer at the front it was saying to check the pressure hose for any kinks if no kinks found and problem continues replace the motor control board.

Primary Control Failure
F then 1 flashes when there is a primary control failure. Replace the machine control assembly.

This was under recall last year.

Telephone Whirlpool at 1-800-253-1301. Whirlpool has acknowledged the F1 fault and will send a serviceman, free parts and labor, to correct the problem concerning the "famous" F1 fault. This is even for washers out of warranty! This concerns model WTW6600 series washers.

Tell them that your Whirlpool Cabrio washer has been receiving the F1 error code repeatedly, with the same symptoms as reported by hundreds of other customers online. You were told that there is a recall for this known defect in the control board, and are requesting that Whirlpool fix the problem including parts & labor.

Be sure to get the authorization code from them so the service person cannot argue about costs.

Basically - this is a problem (faulty chip) on the main controller board of the unit... and the entire board must be replaced with the updated version.

Give the warranty a try (even if it is out of warranty)

CLICK HERE to see the part that is going to have to be replaced.

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OK, your unit is quite unique. this unit has a integrated control design that houses the main and motor control board. both are combined on the same board. this error code represents a failed Machine and motor control board. this single control board works as the main controller and, as the motor controller as well. This board has failed in your unit and, you will need to replace this board asap if possible.