Posted this in someone else's thread, but as my error code is different, decided it would be better to start new thread. I am having a similar issue as all the people who have posted dc codes. Washer stops at the point where I have 35 minutes left in the cycle with the code nd. There is nothing in the drain tube that comes out of the washer. Do I need to check any other place? An empty load completes without issue. Will this clutch repair work for my issue? Should I order a part before I take the machine apart, or should I try the lube first and then order a part if I have to? I have loads of clothes sitting here from a college student - they reek, smell like they haven't been washed in months and I can't take it. I'm ready to go buy a new machine, light mine on fire and post it on You Tube for the world to see Maytag quality.
Hello HopelessR,
Don’t buy a clutch I don’t feel it’s a clutch issue at this point. I hope you can hang in there for some basic troubleshooting. I’m an owner like you not a repair person but I have worked some issues. I feel with the info supplied that you have a true “nd” alarm. The “nd” alarm is triggered when the washer fails to drain completely as monitored by the pressure switch input to the control board and the factory program time limit required for draining the washer. I have never experienced an “nd” alarm until this evening. This was a user induced “nd” failure by pumping wash water back into the tub during the drain cycle of Quick Wash cycle. I started a Quick Wash cycle with no clothes in the washer and with the remaining three settings set to min settings. At the 22 min mark the washer started the drain pump and began a slow spin CCW of the wash basket. It took several minutes of pumping wash water back into the wash tub to trigger “nd” alarm. The washer indicated time stayed at the 21 min mark until the “nd” alarm triggered. 1st test; could you start a Quick Wash cycle with what you would consider a full wash load with the settings I mentioned and let’s see what the results are. I don’t feel you have a clutch issue with no dc/UC error codes to the console. I believe at this point that you have a drain restriction problem. I can’t explain why the washer completes the cycle with the wash basket empty at this point. The 2nd test, do you have a deep sink you can pump the wash water into and observe the stream output? The stream my FAV6800AWW will produce is about a 3” vertical column of water out of the drain pipe held over the deep sink with the drain pump running and no clothes in the wash basket. If you have a deep sink and a helper that can turn on the drain pump in service mode as outlined below we can compare your drain pump output to mine.
You can turn on the drain pump in Service Mode with the process below.
1. Enter Service Mode by pressing both the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys simultaneously until the washer beeps.
2. Next you need to go into the Board Output Test by pressing the Delicates key; your display should now read “ot”.
3. Now press the Presoak key this will start the drain pump and it should begin to empty the tub.
You can press the Off button to stop the drain pump.
If the output stream is low we can troubleshoot the restriction starting at the Sump Cap Item 9 and work back toward the drain pump.
I’ll hang in there with you if you want to continue to troubleshoot the issue. Maybe we can get some suggestions from other forum members. Rich
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
If you have dropped out the clutch re-lubed and reinstalled I feel you have the skill sets to do just about any DIY repair on this machine. It may be that the roller clutches are sticky even after re-lube and may have contributed to the original “nd” alarm with the machine cycling trying to redistribute the clothes without failing with a “dc” or “UC” console fail code. I feel the “dc” error now points to a clutch issue and I would now focus on that as the fail point as you have done. Couple of questions does your machine us both an upper roller clutch bearing and the roller clutch bearing mounted in the clutch pulley? My series 16 (1st two digits of s/n are 16) only used a single roller clutch bearing in the clutch pulley. This is a one-way CW roller clutch bearing as you are aware and if the spinner shaft coupler rotates freely CW in both roller clutch bearings (if your machine uses two) and was free of rust I would feel a cleanup with WD-40 and some light bearing grease would have got you back in service. It’s your call, $1k machine that may be brought back to normal service with a $50 clutch. You could try to clean up the clutch roller bearings one more time, I know it’s a PITA. My goal was to extend the service life of this machine, I took dc /UC errors at the 3.5 yr point, machine was purchased in 7/05.
I have not seen any owners to date on this forum replace the Tub Displacement Sensor unless a repair company is shotgunning in parts to the machine in desperation for a fix. You might want to rule out a Tub Displacement sensor issue with this test. Gotta get into Service Mode for the test.
3.0 Tub Displacement Sensor Diagnostics check.
3a. Enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”
3b. Press the Super Wash key display reads “in”…something like that.
3c. Press Delicates the Display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).
3d. Push tub to the back right corner of the machine the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).
3e. Press Hand Wash.
3f. Pull tub to the front left corner while pushing the tub down the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). If you receive these results your Tub Displacement sensor should be OK.
From here my vote is a clutch issue causing the "dc" error. Rich
Gooood I'm still typing out some stuff for you just I'll pull the stuff on power down power up the machine to see if the control board took a hiccup related to entering Service Mode.
The easy questions first;
Can you lift the lid of the washer and see if you can rotate the wash basket easily CCW with one finger also spin the wash basket by hand CCW as fast as you can, does it coast for 10 turns or so. I’m trying to determine how much drag the clutch roller bearings are placing on the wash basket spinner assembly. Note the wash basket will not rotate CW.
“”One other question - the was an arrow on the cylinder. Did that need to line up to anything, or be inserted in a special way?””
Take a look thru this post and see if the Pic’s of the clutch ID what I believe you call a cylinder and I refer to as the spinner shaft coupler. It sounds like you followed the process in this post and you goy the clutch mounted correctly, has not spun off or no mechanical noise.
“”Little more history - lately my fabric softener dispenser is not empty when load is finished (when machine worked). Also, for a while machine had a mold like smell when machine wasn't used for a day or two (was better lately, or was just using machine more frequently).””
See this post for removing the Fabric Softener top, another forum member mentioned using a pipe cleaner or something similar to clean out the Fabric Softener drain hole.
“”I am willing to spend the $50 to prolong the life of the machine if you think it may be clutch related.””
That’s a call only you can make with info supplied. I’m with you on the back up of wash loads. My son is home from Penn State with a stinky pile. If you were near the 19344 area I would bring a clutch over to you and give it a try. If you decide to pull the plug on this process as I almost did I would call Whirlpool/Maytag customer service and ask to speak to a supervisor. They offered me a 25% refund on the purchase of one of their product line, don’t shoot the messenger, I decided to keep the machine and nurse it along till I get my $1K worth of use, I’m shooting for 7 yrs. I will hang in with you if you decide to continue just let me know. I’ll make what little knowledge I have available for support. We have to have others out there that may chime in.
Rich
Strange….. Pulling the power on the machine is a hard reset to the control board and that has not helped. You can access service mode and perform a function which was a real good sign for the control board. Can you run a Spin Only run with no clothes in the wash basket. The timer should indicate 10 and count down from there thru end of Spin Only cycle and the Cycle Status LED should be lit for Spin. Let’s see if the machine will complet that cycle.
OK back to the ND issue. In my first post when I forced an ND error on my machine my machine hung at the 21 min mark. In the Quick Wash cycle the 1st drain cycle starts around the 22 min mark on my machine with the settings I described. In Spin Only Cycle the drain pump starts soon after the Spin Only cycle starts. A hang at the 9 min mark sounds reasonable to me if the drain line is restricted or the drain pump is not working properly dose it sound like there is still water in the wash tub? I would prove the drain pump is working and drain line is not blocking/restricting water flow out of the machine so we get a start point tor fault isolation. Throw 3 to 4 buckets of water in the machine turn the drain pump on is service mode follow with the instructions at the end of my first post to turn on the drain pump. Lets make sure the drain pump will empty the wash tub is about a minute. It’s quick could be less than a minute if it is working properly. I’m at the real job and may not be able to follow up till 1am here on the East Coast. This ND issue has nothing to do with a clutch malfunction. Let’s nail down one issue at a time. The drain pump is turned on by 120VAC relay on by the control board during the drain cycle and with pressure switch input to the control board. I guess you could have a bad pressure switch that is not signaling a true low water condition to the control board. Lets do the tub pump out test and make sure we can dump water quickly out of the machine.
What we know, you have had a ND alarm from the get go.
From testing, results indicate that the drain pump is OK and the drain system from the sump cap to the drain hose output is not restricted.
The only thing I feel that is left is improper pressure switch feedback to the control board or a bad control board. At this point I feel the control board is OK.
So let’s check the pressure switch and make sure it signals properly and we will do this in Service Mode. Review page 16 of the Service Manual Board Functional Test Input Control Keys.
Enter Service Mode; while in Service Mode, pressing the Super Wash key will begin the Board Input Test.
1. With no water in the tub (make sure it is empty) go into Service Mode and then press Super Wash.
2. Check both the Low Water Level press “Bulky Items” and Medium Water Level press “Colors / Jeans” the display should read 0, If it doesn’t and it reads -1 we have a stuck pressure switch. If it reads 0 I want you to add water to the tub until the display transitions to a -1 which represents a medium fill level point on my machine with the “Colors / Jeans” key pressed. It should take about 3.5” of water in the tub to trigger a med fill level -1 does it? If the pressure switch works OK then I would be at a loss as to what is causing the ND error other than a malfunction with the control board. It would be time for a second opinion before I would replace the control board.
My series 16 machine has a 2 level pressure switch, Medium and High. The Low fill and Med fill levels inputs to the control board are tied to the Medium fill contacts on the pressure switch. The Low and Med fill levels transition from -1 to 0 together when I reach about 3.5” of water in the tub.
My error ""The Low and Med fill levels transition from -1 to 0 together when I reach about 3.5” of water in the tub. ""
Should read; The Low and Med fill levels transition from 0 to -1 together when I reach about 3.5” of water in the tub.
OK if the tub was empty with a tub pump out in service mode and you read -1 the pressure switch is stuck or failed. Keep in mind I’m an owner like you doing basic troubleshooting, we haven’t had any other forum support to work thru this issue but I feel we are going in the right direction. The trouble shooting tells me to replace the pressure switch. Before that I would pull the power on the machine and tap on the pressure switch a few times and see if the pressure switch contacts release. Page 20 of the SM states the contacts are normally closed when satisfied (-1) so if taping on the pressure switch doesn’t cause the display to read (0) with an empty tub then I would replace the switch. Like the clutch it’s a tight work area. If you want to go forward and DIY the repair read the manual on drain pump removal. I haven’t had to remove the pressure switch; I’m not sure what the best removal approach is. You mentioned your machine is a series 10 (first two digits of your s/n). Here are some suppliers for series 10 pressure switch. Check with any parts supplier before a purchase, give them Model number/Serial number of your machine. If you want to keep the machine it might be worthwhile to get an appliance repair service to do this…. I would DIY but that’s me.
AZ comparison 25001053
The clutch is a good investment it’s a high failure part on the machine as you know from this sites many postings of dc/UC error code issues. Good luck.
I would also do a new repost of this issue with the "FAV6800AWW ND code" and see if we could get a second opinion from this board. I would go silent and see if you can get additional support on the issue. Rich
Try taping on the pressure switch with the end of a screw driver handel and see if that clears the -1 condition to the control board.
I'm now officially silent. Zip It :)
Nope you are right on; an intermittent issue nailed down to a part causing the issue should be replaced. I would just like to see the -1 clear to nail the issue to the pressure switch before I would spend your money. I never troubleshot a pressure switch issue before but I understand the circuitry. The schematic is located in the troubleshooting guide located in the console of your machine if you haven’t already pulled it out. I have a soft copy PDF if you want it, just E-mail me at [email protected] and leave me a heads up on this post to check for mail.
Good luck to you and let us know how it goes. Rich
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Motor for the most part is bullet proof has a 10 yr warranty
I would start with front panel removal and see if you can rotate the Clutch Pulley CW the Wash/agitate direction and CCW the Spin direction. Make sure nothing is seized.
It could be an issue with the Control Board or the Motor Controller. I have working spares for all and that makes troubleshooting easier.
If you decide to troubleshoot further and try a Control Board swap (in the console) or a Motor Controller swap I would buy parts from a supplier that will allow you to return the part for refund with no questions asked.
Google this ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW"" a forum where I help owners of the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines.
This is a sticky on a DIY forum at the 5th post down you can link to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual. You can post in that forum in the Maytag washer forum for additional help. You will find a link to parts supplier.
I link you to a post on this forum where I was working with an owner who was troubleshooting issues and started throwing a LR error code. He ended up replacing both the Motor Control Board, my 1st suggestion and that did not resolve the issue. A Control Board swap in the Console resolved the issue. Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin ...
I won't troubleshoot any further on this forum it's just difficult for me. Can't edit, search post and sometimes pics don't attach. There are better DIY forums out there for working on the FAV6800A/FAV9800A......just mu opinion.
Your machine more than likely is ready for an Tub Seal replacement.....Google this FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement Another forum I help owners with FAV6800A/FAV9800A machine issues........good luck.
Google this; Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW
This is a DIY Appliance repair forum and you can get the Service Manual and repair support posted in the sticky at that site.
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
Good luck.
Google this ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW""
This is a sticky for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A washer DIY support. Go to the 5th post down in the Sticky and you will find a link for the Service Manual.
If you want to go further in troubleshooting and possibly a DIY fix just open a new thread in that DIY forum with Model number and Serial number. That info is found tag behind the console right back side as you face the machine console.
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Usually answered in minutes!
I am not a patient person, and sometimes that gets me into trouble. Like now. We removed and regreased the clutch last night. Spring was fine, the bearings were a little dry but otherwise seemed o.k. Now it's back together and instead of the 'nd' code I am getting the 'dc' code.
I can't get the machine to go into service mode. Both before and after we fooled with the clutch the machine would beep but would not display 'ot'. Instead it displays the time.
I just threw two pieces in the machine and turned it on quick wash. Intead of water filling, it's spinning - I guess trying to complete the last wash.
Suggestions?
Yes, machine has both an upper roller clutch bearing and the roller clutch bearing mounted in the clutch pulley. Everything was cleaned with WD40 and relubed and still not working.
My machine won't go into service mode. I press the keys instructed simutaneously and it beeps at me but the display does not show as it should.
I am willing to spend the $50 to prolong the life of the machine if you think it may be clutch related.
Little more history - lately my fabric softener dispenser is not empty when load is finished (when machine worked). Also, for a while machine had a mold like smell when machine wasn't used for a day or two (was better lately, or was just using machine more frequently).
One other question - the was an arrow on the cylinder. Did that need to line up to anything, or be inserted in a special way?
Hey, I got it to go into service mode! Tub displacement sensor tested fine.
Thanks! The board is stuck at the point where it was when we pulled the clutch. Too bad it's not like a PC where if you pull the power it resets.
Spun it manually - spun at least 20 times (gave it a hard spin to work out some of the aggravation).
Yes, we followed that post and it seems like it's all back together just fine.
The issue right now is it seems like it's stuck at the part of the cycle where we left off. When I press a button to start a new load, the time comes on correctly but instead of the water filling, it starts spinning. How do I fix that?
Spin only with or without clothes counts down from 10 to 9, hangs on 9 for a while and then codes 'nd'.
No, it does not sound like there is still water in the wash tub. We do not have a slop sink in the utility room but will have to figure something out.
I had called a parts store in the area to see if they carried the clutch in stock. They had it in their warehouse and one of their workers lives by me and is actually dropping it off at my house tonight. So since I will have that part we might as well throw it in there and test that.
Did the pump test. Since there's no slop sink, we just held the drain hose over the pipe it usually drains into and watched the flow. Output flow was very strong and my 4 full buckets emptied in less than a minute. I don't think that's the problem.
Guy hasn't been here to drop off the part. Not sure if he's still coming - kind of late here.
New part is in. Same issue. Spin only hangs on 9. I did get the water to come in at the beginnng of a regular wash. Codes 'nd' part way through. Issue appears to not be the clutch.
What do we do now?
Both test at -1.
What's the difference between the pressure switch and pressure switch #2 and which do I need to replace?
Thanks for all your help. I've called Sears repair to see what they will charge me to come out and replace the switch. There's no place in the area where I can get the part before the weekend and it's worth it to me to spend some money if it means I don't have to haul the mountains of laundry I have here to the laundromat.
I will post another thread to see if someone else gives another opinion.
Please don't be silent.
Here's my thinking for the replacement of the part. Since it coded 'nd' and then worked and then coded 'nd' again, it seems like the switch may be going. If that's the case, then it needs to be replaced. If I tap on it and it goes again, who's to say that it may not get stuck and code again tomorrow.
Am I way off here?
Repairman called. He agrees per a phone conversation it's the pressure switch. It's $165 for the service call/installation plus the part. He tells me it's an easy fix and we end the call with me going to install the part by myself.
So my hero from the appliance parts store is going to drop the part off this afternoon and we'll open up the machine again.
I really hopes this works.
Can you please send that schematic to [email protected]?
Success! Thanks very much for your help.
For any persons reading this later, the repair tech I spoke to today said he's seen this happen when people use too much detergent. He recommended using a minimal amount and diluting it in the dispenser cup with a cap full of water. (In my case, detergent should have not been the issue).
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