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Newer Casio models that have "class compliant" USB interfaces such as the PX-330 would work (plug and play) since they now have "class compliant" drivers.
Unfortunately PX-300 is an older model that would need specific drivers and Casio only made drivers for Windows PCs.
The best place to get most products such as these are usually online. You can search Ebay.com or try the official casio website. But the unit you are looking for will be easy to get online. Try searching google phillipines or yahoo phillipines. Incase you need more assistance let me know. Hope this solution has been helpful?
All amplifiers make a little bit of noise (hiss) but it is normally slight and drowned out by playing. However, assuming that this is not normal system hiss, here are a few simple steps to try and locate the source of the problem by process of elimination.
SAFETY FIRST - a common cause of a humming or buzzing sound can be a lack of earth (grounding) on the mains supply. With a 240volt AC supply this hum will be at 50hz (in the UK) - frequency may vary in other countries but should be similar. Check the earth first because of risk of electric shock. Until you are satisfied that this is not the cause of the problem DO NOT touch any metal parts of the amp. Remove the mains lead and try a different one. Try plugging the amp into a different mains outlet socket (preferably one on a completely different circuit).
Turn off other electrical equipment in the vicinity that may be causing interference. Move the amp a bit, try rotating it by 90 degrees to change relationship to things like mains electric cables in the floor.
If you are using the line-out socket to give a feed to a mixer, slave amp or p.a. system unplug this. Sometimes double earthing (through the mains lead of your amp AND the mains lead of the MIXER / PA) will cause an 'earth loop' due to a different resistance at each end. Putting a DI box with an 'earth lift' in between may eliminate this problem. Alternatively there are little gadgets you can buy to do this (I found one intended for car audio systems on Amazon that works very well)
Unplug any instrument leads - to eliminate possibilities of interference affecting cables, effects pedals or guitar pick-ups. Also unplug the foot-switch.
If that stops it plug a lead in without a guitar on the other end - does the noise return? If yes change the lead. If no plug the guitar in.
Try moving the guitar in relation to the amp (turn it around 90 or 180 degrees) - this will be pick-up to amp power supply interference.
Does the sound get better or worse if you touch metal parts of the guitar with your hand? This may be a screening issue within the lead or the guitar itself.
Try turning all the individual channel tone and gain controls to zero, turn off any effects on the amp panel. If that eliminates it only turn up the controls on channels that you are actually using.
Yep ! First thing is to eliminate any processing resource "hogs" that **** respources and can cause buffer overruns. Eliminate Antivirus, antispyware, and network communication and wireless network programs running in the background while recording.
Next make sure that ALL equipment is powered from the same receptacle or power source. In your case that should be the mixer and the PC.
Next remember that the condenser mic picks up everything... I have 5 of those mics and seemingly noise free environments turn out to have little things that generate fast rising pulses that you don't notice till they are recorded.
Lastly, the air here is very dry and plain old static electricity is rampart... Lady shuffling her feet was sending pulses through the mic cable at our church. They are NOT audible until they get into the sound system as clicks.
I have found that trying to record directely to a USB stick often has ooverruns and clicks... also burning a CD from stick to the CD results in noise due to buffer underuns. Burn from Hard drive to CD and make sure all the other hog programs are shut off.
We can only guess what the input port might be a part of... Computer? Digital recorder? who knows...
You LIKELY have a ground loop. Use isolation techinque to eliminate ground loop. Tools for that often include what is known as a "DI" or direct input box. It often has an isolation transformer in it to break the ground loop. You use or set the DI to "ground lift".
The problem is with the amplifier itself. Crackling is usually capacitor related and you will need to have the amp checked over to properly identify the cause.
Some amps are also prone to pick up static from other electrical items which can also cause these problems. I had a crackling issue with an old Crate amp of mine which turned out it was due to being too near a computer/monitor so it is worth eliminating these things as a possible cause before having the amp checked.
This may be a hard one to analyze, however my educated guess is that a static discharge is putting the internal processor in a program loop it shouldn't be in.
It is my experience that you MAY not even feel a discharge even.
Suggest you make sure to not wear static producing clothing as a test. Sliding across a piano bench might even create the discharge.
The unit SHOULD not be sensitive to this, but the designers don't always do things right.
ALSO make sure the unit is plugged into a grounded receptacle.
Use of external things like amps and headphones can WORSEN the problem of static. External amps MUST be fed from the same receptacle.
That doesn't sound good. It sounds as if the processor is locking up and that might only be fixed by replacing the main board. Sometimes this happens if a unit gets fried by static electricity.
But before giving up, I would open up the unit and check for loose cables and connectors internally. If there are chips (IC's) that are socketed on circuit boards, push them down firmly. Things may start working again.
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