My ksm500 would not start

It is a Start Capacitor. It give the motor a jolt to get it running.

HOBART, Fits Hobart Brand, For A120/A200, Capacitor ...

Grainger https://www.grainger.com > product > HOBART-Capa...
HOBART Capacitor, Motor Start: Fits Hobart Brand, For A120/A200 ; Item: 235F28 ; Mfr. Model: 00-070487-00025 ; Catalog Page: N/A.
US$41.13

MOTOR STARTING CAPACITOR FOR HOBAR MIXER ...

eBay https://www.ebay.ca > ... > Commercial Mixers
MOTOR STARTING CAPACITOR FOR HOBAR MIXER MODEL A200 REPLACES 7048700018 ; Condition. New ; Quantity. 67 sold. 82 available ; Item Number. 254321066847 ; Brand.
Rating: 5 · ‎ 1 vote

Motor Starting Capacitor Fitting Hobart Mixers A120, A200 ...

National Band Saw Parts https://nbsparts.com > All Products
MOTOR STARTING CAPACITOR FOR HOBAR MIXER MODEL A200 REPLACES 00-070487-00018. 125V, 50/60HZ, 145-174uF. Includes: One Capacitor. Replaces#: 00-070487-00018 ...
US$30.00 · ‎ In stock
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hobart+A200+the+capacitor+is+starting+or+running+capacitor

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Here is the instruction booklet!
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/820581/Kambrook-Powermix-Planetary-Ksm500.html

Most motors of that type have a capacitor that puts the stator out of phase with the rotor. They are capacitor start induction run motors. These also have a centrifugal switch inside near the end ot the shaft to put power to the start winding for a split second to determine the direction of turn and to increase horsepower until it is up to speed. So if it fails to start either the centrifugal switch needs cleaning (or replacement if damaged) or the capacitor needs replacing to give it its original power, or the start winding has failed from overheating. There may be a thermal cutout on the start winding that may need to be replaced if it did overheat. If the start winding burned then the motor would require rewinding or replacement.

Could be a problem with the start windings.or start switch.maybe a capacitor .on the older models the start switch sticks just needs freed up and contacts on start switch cleaned.

Is it a problem of the motor not starting, or does the motor start but does not mix?

If the motor starts, then you've either broken a gear or a key inside the transmission from overloading it, or stripped the brass worm gear (also in the transmission).

If the motor doesn't start, I'd say you probably burned out part of the motor starting circuit if the motor was overloaded severely enough to re-engage starting components.

There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

The answer is clearly in the starting circuit which doesn't have too many parts, but depends on the type of starting circuit your mixer uses (electronic or mechanical start switch). I'm assuming your mixer isn't very old, as the old units used brushed motors which did not have starting circuits.

The parts of the starting circuit are the motor start winding, the start capacitor and the start switch (probably electronic in your case which is a small silver box with four wire terminals on it). The capacitor should be tested with a multimeter after verifying it's not holding a charge (check with multimeter set to DC Volts, mixer unplugged, should read zero volts).
Start winding should be tested with the meter to measure ohms. Locate the wires leading to the motor (hopefully only three wires) and you should get a reading for all three combinations of measurements (wire 1-to-wire 2, 2-to-3, 1-to-3) if meter indicates open on any of these, motor stator is bad(this is pretty rare and quite expensive).
Electronic start switches are not very simple to test, but if the capacitor and motor test out OK with the meter, and all the wiring is intact (look closely for loose wires, burned wires, poorly crimped terminals, etc.) then it must be the start switch.

Hi BEV, By the symptoms you are describing, it appears that your planetary/agitator shaft (where you attach the beaters) assembly is dropping from the mixer head, is that correct? When you replace the planetary and lift your bowl up into a ‘locked’ position, the planetary is being held in place by the beater resting on the bottom of your mixing bowl and ‘works’ for the time being. However, you don’t want operate your mixer that way for very long.
I suspect what caused the planetary/agitator shaft to drop from the mixer head is that one of the pins used to secure the planetary/agitator shaft assembly to the mixer head has failed (sheared) so now there is nothing holding the planetary/agitator to the mixer head. The good news is that this is fixable.
The inspection and troubleshooting of your mixer’s transmission is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the correct Part List manual around when you start to disassemble your mixer. If you are lacking one, you can download it from the KA website (http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home).
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals& Guides> and enter the 6 character model number, in your case KSM50PS. Unfortunately, entering your exact model number yields many Owners manual and no Parts Manuals, so I would use the following, KSM500, and select the last file under Parts List (16) KSM500WH0.pdf (857.41 KB). Verify your mixer matches the mixer in the illustrations. Turn to pages 4 & 5, titled ‘Case, Gearing & Planetary Unit, for the disassembly, troubleshooting, and reassembly of your mixer, along with a listing of all the parts. Make sure you inspect
Locate Illust. No. 14, Groove Pin, Part # 9795443. This pin retains the planetary/agitator shaft to the mixer head, and I suspect this is the pin that has failed and needs to be replaced. Getting to it will require the disassembly of the whole transmission. This will be messy as you will need to remove all the grease from the gears and center shaft.
While your mixer’s apart you should check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the gears, etc. You may find more things that need replacement than just the groove pin.
Besides needing a replacement pin and grease, you might consider replacing the gasket, too. I recommend using a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call).
Here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com. You should search for ‘food grade grease’. Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do your comparison shopping.
It can be messy but quite gratifying to diagnose and repair your mixer yourself.
Here’s a link to an excellent site for disassembling/fixing your KA Mixer. Although it’s a different model, the principles are the same: http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm and another link to a site that details the disassembly and replacement of mixer’s grease, which might be helpful, too. http://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.htmltl
If you feel troubleshooting and repairing is beyond your capability, then I would seek out a local small appliance repair shop in your area. KA Customer Care can give you names of local KA authorized repair shops in your area, but you can also do an online search to supplement what KA may provide you. Call to explain your circumstances and find out their hourly rate and get an estimate of what they think it would cost to repair your mixer. Also, always obtain three or more estimates – do some comparison shopping.
Good luck and have fun. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has been helpful to you, please rate it, thanks! – hslincoln

take off the side cover where gear shifter is, you probably have the original arrow hart contactor in there ,that part is obsolete but you can get a kit from hobart to upgrade the control circuit

Hi, This is not normally a difficult question. Normally the answer would be - Yes no problem. I have taken every kind of appliance overseas. But this particular model has an electronic speed control and finding out the exact details of the electronic clocking is a problem. My best guess is that it will work just fine but at a slightly slower speed like any other 60Hz appliance. Oh and by the way you're gonna need a pretty big transformer this thing pulls 325 watts so you should go to at least a 400 watt transformer for doughs and heavy batter. The thing you could do to find other folks experience is to go to the kitchenaid forum or military wifes forum online and ask if anybody has taken one of these overseas. Good Luck!