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Crosley CDE8000gbl can not find thermal fuse part number
I tested the thermal fuse with a volt meter and did not get three zeroes like I did on the thermostats. Im assuming this means it needs to be replaced. My thermal fuse has three prongs on it versus two which is what I am seeing all over the internet. it has a blue, red, and yellow wire connected. I can not find a part number for it anywhere
The thermal fuse for this dryer is located on the right side of the heating element behind and near the top/left of the drum. You will see two white wires leading to it. The Thermostat is right above the heating element - two red wires lead to it.
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If the electric dryer
does not work at all then there are some possibilities that have to be checked
to confirm the fault. 1) Check whether you are
getting power to the dryer from electric out let to which the dryer is
connected. The power problem can also occur if the fuse is blown or the circuit
breaker is got tripped. 2) Other possibility for
dryer not working is the blown thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is located to the exhaust duct inside the back
cover panel. This fuse blows out if the dryer gets overheated or any short
circuit occurs in the house when dryer is in working. 3) One more reason for dryer not
working at all is the fault in the door switch. The dryer will not start
working till the door is closed. But if the door switch or the door-switch
actuator is got cracked or worn out or loose then door will not get closed
properly and dryer will not work. In this case check the door switch/actuator
and replace it if required. 4) But if all the above mentioned possibilities checks
out OK, and still the same problem, then there is a fault in the wiring. Check
the main power cord of the dryer which you connect in the electric out let. If
the power wire is got internally burned out or got cut in between the dryer
will not get power and will not work. This will
help. Thanks.
Disconnect all sources of power to the dishwasher.
Set your multimeter to the lowest RESISTANCE setting.
Place one probe on each side of the thermal fuse. The meter's reading should drop to zero, or very nearly zero, and should be the same reading as you get when you just touch the two probes to each other.
If you read anything significantly higher than zero across the thermal fuse, replace the thermal fuse with an identical one - same part number, or same current/temperature ratings.
Inspect the power cordUnplug
the power cord and check for voltage at the outlet. Also inspect for
damage, shorts, or burn marks that can be a possible safety hazard.
Bad door switchIf your
microwave does not work at all and you know everything is plugged in
properly and the outlet is functioning, then also check the door hooks
and the door release button. Using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check your
terminals. When your microwave door is closed you should have a reading
of zero. Once the door is open the reading should change to infinity. If
these readings do not match up, replacement of the door switch is
necessary.
Blown fusesTo determine
if your fuse has blown out, which may attribute to your microwave not
running, you need to pull the fuse out using a pair of fuse pullers. Lay
it down and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check both ends of the fuse
in question. If you do not get a reading of zero, then you will need to
replace the fuse.
Bad fan motorLocate the
fan and remove the leads. Again using the volt-ohm meter on RX1, check
the terminals. If an infinity reading is displayed, it means that the
fan has gone bad and requires replacement.
2) do-not heat
Check the power diodeThis
electronic component is responsible for transmitting current in one
direction. If the diode becomes defective it will cause your microwave
to not heat. Test the diode and replace it if necessary.
High voltage capacitorResponsible
for storing electricity, this part is a key component in any microwave.
Remove, discharge, and test the capacitor to determine if it requires
replacement.
Damaged magnetronResponsible
for generating waves and producing heat. When your microwave is no
longer heating properly, replacement will be required.
Thermal CutoffsExamine
the thermal cutoffs on both the magnetron and the oven itself. Take off
one of the leads and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals.
If you get a result other than zero, replace the thermal cutoffs.
These button thermal cutouts should pass an electrical current when cool. Therefore, use an ohm meter or a test lamp to check that. The meter should read zero or nearly zero, and the test lamp should light, to indicate continuity.
If you remove the back panel. you will see the blower housing on the left side. O n the right side of the blower housing near the bottom you will see the thermal fuse mounted above the operating thermastat. To test you will need a Volt/ Ohm meter. Set meter to RX1, take off a lead, and probe both terminals, Look for zero reading, if its high or infinity you will need to replace.
You will need to check the thermal fuses on the dryer.they are normally
located near the heating element.If you have a volt meter you will need
to check the continuity of all the thermal fuses ad if you find one that
has not got any continuity replace it.
I do have a picture of the locations of the thermal fuses for some dryer
in my tips.To test the door switch then you will need to remove the
wires from the switch and test it the same way when you push the switch
in by hand the meter should have a tone or read zero this is good if
there is no tone or does not read zero then it is bad.
Also make sure the unit has enough power to it.
Thanks for choosing fixya i hope this will solve your problem
You will need to check the thermal fuses on the dryer.they are normally located near the heating element.If you have a volt meter you will need to check the continuity of all the thermal fuses ad if you find one that has not got any continuity replace it.
I do have a picture of the locations of the thermal fuses for some dryer in my tips.To test the door switch then you will need to remove the wires from the switch and test it the same way when you push the switch in by hand the meter should have a tone or read zero this is good if there is no tone or does not read zero then it is bad.
Also make sure the unit has enough power to it. Thanks for choosing fixya i hope this will solve your problem
You will need to check the thermal fuses on the dryer.they are normally
located near the heating element.If you have a volt meter you will need
to check the continuity of all the thermal fuses ad if you find one that
has not got any continuity replace it.
I do have a picture of the locations of the thermal fuses for some dryer
in my tips.To test the door switch then you will need to remove the
wires from the switch and test it the same way when you push the switch
in by hand the meter should have a tone or read zero this is good if
there is no tone or does not read zero then it is bad.
Also make sure the unit has enough power to it.
Thanks for choosing fixya i hope this will solve your problem.
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
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