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After the heat clicks on there is a delay and then a loud popping almost banging noise that is really loud, the noise is loud enough to wake you up if you are sleeping and loud enough to hear from other parts of the house
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If the furnace made a clicking noise trying to turn on and then makes the BANG noise at the furnace, it’s most likely a delayed ignition. Imagine a room full of gas and then someone decides to light a match. Big problem. That's what’s happening in your furnace if the ignition of gas is delayed.
A variety of issues can delay the combustion of that gas. So the gas builds up in the furnace until—BOOM—it ignites, causing a mini-explosion. This can harm the heat exchanger, which is very expensive part to replace. Some causes of delayed ignition includes:
1. Dirty burners 2. Flames are lifting away from the burner outlet due to too much primary air 3. Too much gas
If you're handy enough to understand what I've said then burners can be cleaned/replaced, and primary air can be adjusted. With some units gas flow can be adjusted as well; other times the gas valve will need to be replaced.
If you've no idea what I've described, GET HELP before you ruin the heat exchanger and have a more expensive problem on your hands or worse...
If the furnace made a clicking noise trying to turn on and then makes the BANG noise at the furnace, it’s most likely a delayed ignition. Imagine a room full of gas and then someone decides to light a match. Big problem. That's what’s happening in your furnace if the ignition of gas is delayed.
A variety of issues can delay the combustion of that gas. So the gas builds up in the furnace until—BOOM—it ignites, causing a mini-explosion. This can harm the heat exchanger, which is very expensive part to replace. Some causes of delayed ignition includes:
1. Dirty burners 2. Flames are lifting away from the burner outlet due to too much primary air 3. Too much gas
If you're handy enough to understand what I've said then burners can be cleaned/replaced, and primary air can be adjusted. With some units gas flow can be adjusted as well; other times the gas valve will need to be replaced.
If you've no idea what I've described, GET HELP before you ruin the heat exchanger and have a more expensive problem on your hands or worse...
Well if it's considered an unsafe situation, please, for your own safety, hire you own experienced expert for a second opinion. Get the results in writing, and if it shows an issue that can be resolved exists, present it to the home owner and ask for a refund off the rent. If that unit has a cracking, creaking to it, probably just the metal heat exchanger expanding and contracting. It's a new unit with new noises, and may take time to get used to. Now if its a louder bang or piping sound, there may be an intermittent issue that needs to be addressed.
Have you replaced your air filter recently? Often this is a symptom of a restricted return. The blower almost causes a vacuum in the duct work, and when the system shuts down the duct "pop" back out, causing this banging noise. Hope this helps
Some cracking and pinging is normal due to the thermal expansion of the metal. If some make more noise than others, it could be an indication of a plugged or restricted steam vent (the chrome gadget on the side of the radiator) or that the return line at the boiler needs draining or that there is too much water in the supply lines. A good flushing of the supply and return lines will help. Check your water level after flushing. I would replace the original steam vent on the suspect radiator and see if that helps, it could be over heating.
We recently had the same problem. After cleaning both the furnace filter and the humidifier water panel, the clicking noise (electric air filter) and the loud bang went away.
sounds as if you may be looking in the wrong spot. If different gearing is drastically changing the symptoms you may want to check the trans. or torque converter. sudden pop with engine rpm increase and lack of power sounds like possible band breakage in transmission or impellor breakage in torque converter.
Most base board heaters installation instructions say to attach to the wall with screws which are slack ( not fully tightened) in order to allow the heater case to expand and contract otherwise you get a clicking noise
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