Hobart A 200 Mixer
There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:
Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding
The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.
The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.
Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.
Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.
I guess that the people here think I'm stupid? I spoke with hobart before coming here in the first place, they were not helpful at all due to the age of the unit.Had no drawings or exploded view of my unit. If you dont have any good input how about let someone with some insight give me a helping hand. The unit I have is a 1940 model and it seems that the front bearing is dry and I need to know how to get to the front of the motor with the least hassel.If you havedrawing or can other wise talk me through this please help.
If you have a Spec type build rather than an ML number, your mixer probably has a brush and commutator ring type motor. On the rear motor cover is a mount plate for the brush holders that can be advanced or retarded. Check the screws that hold it in place and see if there are any indications to where it used to be positioned, and secure in that spot. It sounds like the brushes are not aligned, which causes the motor to either stall or run backwards.
Phil, I should have read the whole post before replying. To access the front bearing, you need to remove the whole rotor assembly from the stator. The transmission has grease that will leak out if you dont either remove the below the front bearing level, or tilt the mixer forward. Remove the rear motor bearing bracket, disconnecting the wires from the start/run switch, then gently draw the rotor out. The original bearing has a felt wick, and a shoulder to one side. You could upgrade it to a double sided shielded or sealed bearingm, but you willneed to duplicate the spacer face on the inner race with washers,etc. Don't net the spacer touch the outer race. Gentle with the brushes when reinstalling the rear bearing bracket.
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