Spider bolts spinning

Good Afternoon Friend,

I understand your Frigidaire laundry center, model# FGX831CS, is not spinning water out of your clothes completely. I see that on the first spin cycle the drum is not spinning and is just making noise, and on the second spin cycle the drum spins to the left very slowly and loudly. First check to see if your washer is overloaded. Try taking some clothes out and spinning them again. Secondly, make sure that the load is not out of balance. Try rearranging the clothes to allow for proper spinning. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your dryer status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
WP

You will need an internal bearing puller. You will have to remove the rear axle by pulling off the differential cover. Then remove the bolt holding the spider gear cross shaft in place. Remove the shaft and spider gears. If your tire is already removed and brake drum is off, push in the axle and remove the circle clip. Once this is out you can slide your axle out you can remove the backing plate for your brakes and get to the bearing. Pull the seal out and pull out the bearing with a puller and slide hammer. Install the new bearing by hitting on the outside race ONLY. Install a new seal and install in reverse order.

Hi

In a washing machine, the bearings protect the drive shaft from over rotation due to the forces applied to the washtub.
Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet. Turn off and disconnect the washer from the water pipes. Pull the machine forward so that you have easy access to the entire machine.

Unscrew the lid's top two screws and remove the machine's top panel.

Slide out the machine's back panel.

Slide off the fan belt and set it aside.

Unscrew the drive shaft's end bolt. This is the bolt that holds the pulley into position.

Remove the pulley by placing the screwdriver underneath it and gently leveraging it off.

Remove the drum's three bolts that hold its spider bracket into place. If the bolts are sticking use, rust remover and degreaser to loosen them. Do not apply too much pressure to the brackets or you will strip them.

Tap the spider joint gently with a hammer while pulling on it. The entire joint and the bearings should slide off.

Clean up the spider shaft, removing all rust and debris using cloth diapers and rust remover and degreaser solutions.

Tap the new bearings into place.

Tap the new drive shaft seal into place. The drive shaft seal should always be replaced with the bearings to ensure water-tight protection for the machinery.

Reassemble to washer.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Noise when spinning, seems to be the bearing are worn out or broken. The washing machine needs to be opened while disconnected from the a.c. mains. It may be necessary to lift the drum out of the machine to get to this, if direct access from the rear is not available or awkward to get tools in.

At the rear of the drum there is a wheel connected to a belt. Beneath this wheel are some spokes (called a spider) which is bolted to the drum. This spider needs to be removed and the center bearing hammered or pulled out using a bearing puller (automotive garages use them) without damaging the spider. The bearing will have a rubber seal on top which can be removed with a screwdriver. Normally the seal and bearing is replaced as part of a kit. These are available on ebay, contact the seller with model number GHW9150P to make sure, see example search below.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=whirlpool+bearing&_sacat=0&_odkw=GHW9150P+bearing&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

When Replacing the bearing and add grease so that it is well lubricated.

Reassemble in reverse order

The symptoms that you describe sound like the spider or support arms of your washer has failed. It the part that holds the wash drum true in the plastic tub. It's a rather difficult job to replace the spider since the washer has to be taken apart to get to the spider. Fortunately, LG does sell the spider, instead of making you buy a new spider and drum. You may need to also replace the plastic tub parts if they are too damaged to be reused. Get a few estimates before deciding whether to repair or replace.

First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.

it will definitely be the bearings and possibly the spider as well. the spider is attached to the bowl. the spider is made of aluminum and they corrode all the time. open the door to the machine and grab hold of the steel bowl, has it got movement on it. if it has then the spider and bearings are faulty, also the main shaft seal will need replacing.nearly every time i went to an LG 8013f that was noisy it was the bearings and or spider. hope this helps. please reply 4 more help. good luck.

To change the bearing(s) and/or seal on a Simpson 45S100C 5.5kg Front loading washing machine:
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1) Disconnect from the power, water etc. and find your self some space;
2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
6) Remove the three bolts that hold the ends of the spider to the drum. I found these very hard to get moving and they are also awkwardly placed. Use a socket set and you may need a bit of rust-remover/degreaser (WD-40 in Australia);
7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
8) Tap the end of the drive shaft with a hammer while pulling on the spider. The whole spider and the bearings should slide off the shaft;
9) The spider holds two bearings (one next to the drum and one next to the pulley). I’d recommend replacing both. In my case and apparently in most cases it is the bearing closest to the drum that gets damaged, usually due to water leaking through the drive-shaft seal. The two bearings are different sizes 6205 and 6206. When ordering replacements, I’d recommend rubber sealed ‘RS’ bearings. There is also a shaft seal that sits between the larger bearing and the tub. The seal comes from Simpson ($25). The bearing can be bought from any bearing supply company and are about half the cost of the ‘official’ bearings, and probably better quality. I paid $16 for the 6205 and $20 for the 6206;
10) Knock out the old bearings. The correct way to do this is with bearing pullers etc, but I used a long steel rod (one of the transport locking rods that new machine’s come with) and a hammer (not even rubber). First knock out the large bearing and the drive shaft seal by inserting the rod through from the other bearing side and hit firmly while alternating the position of the force around the case of the bearing. I propped the spider against a brick to ensure the bearing and seal could pop out freely. Now turn around and repeat for the other bearing;
11) Clean up the spider and shaft, ensuring you remove any rust and debris;
12) Tap the new bearings into place. Again I used a hammer and firm tapping around the ring of the bearing;
13) Tap in the new drive shaft seal;
14) Reassemble.

Probably not. Sounds like bearings and seal is shot.

To complete this repair correctly and to prevent problem re occuring within months you must change the inner drum spider at the same time as the bearing kit, otherwise you are wasting your time, to complete the repair if you have not done one before will take you aprox 1 to 3 hours depending on space available and practicle ability, here goes, remove lid and outer case from machine to do this remove bolts on lower back and two side bolts (under small white covers) remove bolts along top edges both sides on top of macnine, remove cabinet, remove motor, remove hoses, remove heater and thermostat wires, noting location for refitting, remove suspension leg pins and lift outer drum assembly complete fron lower frame, split two halves of outer drum by removing bolts around centre seem, split drum in two, remove drum pully, refit pully bolt and drift inner drum out having put nut back on drum spider thread to avoid flaring shaft, using hammer knock shaft through bearings, then using a chisel or similer object knock out bearings and seal, reverse process refitting new bearins and spider, make sure to replace centre outer drum seal, as these are prone tro leaking I suggest you also seal with a layer of clear silicon, and problems contact me again, not really a job for a novice. Good Luck you will need it. Regards Advisor