After putting a load in the dryer, it stops after about 20min. When I go to press the start button, it makes a buzzing sound and it won't start. I have to wait for a little while (maybe for it to cool off??) and then it will start again and the same thing happens all over.
Sounds like it's overheating, when is the last time you cleaned the vent. You should peridically (at least every 6 months) disconnect the vent pipe/hose at the back of the machine clean it in both directions with a canister vac. Also make sure the vent 'exit' on the exterior of your residence which has a flap isn't plugged or stuck in the closed position. If this doesn't help let me know and I'll be glad to help you further.
If it ends in the attic its pumping warm moist air up there and will lead to mold issues. An old vent outlet in the wall usually means that the old vent came apart and someone didn't want to remove sheetrock or siding to fix it and simply ran a vent pipe straight up.Most driers recommened no more than a 10' rise. I'd start with a good cleaning of your vent, as long as that attic rise is no more than 10-12' your probably OK but be sure it vents to the outside once it gets there and that that exterior vent is able to open. Long verticals usually do increase the amount of lint that gets trapped both in your machine and in the vent pipe. They are usually just squeeze fittings that come apart with some gentle pulling, You may have some duct tape holding them together as well. Make sure that you don't pull down on the long vertical as you don't want that coming apart. I just use a crevice tool that came with my vacumn cleaner to get as much of the lint out of the vent in the bottom of the machine and vent pipe as I can. It seems to do the trick as most of the trapped lint seems to collect near the connection between the machine and the vent.
If it's making you wait then it is still under the impression that it has overheated. The most common cause of overheating is restricted airflow. You should be getting good airflow at the back of the machine and then with the vent pipe connected you should be getting good (same) airflow at the exterior vent. Try that and let me know.
The other place to check is the airflow into the dryer, what's happening is that the thermal overloads on the motor are kicking out and are preventing you from restarting your dryer until they cool off sufficiently. The secret to great dryer performance is air flow. Fresh air must enter from the rear of the dryer through the vents and exit through the exhaust. If this flow is compromised it will increase the dry times. The length and condition of your exhaust vent would be the first place to check. Which is why I've asked you to check flow at the back of the dryer and again at the outside exit, There should be a flap on the outside exhaust to keep birds and rodents out they will stick sometimes so you need to be sure it opens easily with airflow. Some in the industry have said that if you use dryer sheets the lint filter could be plugged from the wax used in dryer sheets. This idea is not industry wide. If your lint filter apears to have a white color across the mesh, then it is plugged. Warm soapy water and a soft brush will clear your filter. Your dryer was designed to have a certain amount of cubic feet per minute of air flow. Anything that changes that will effect your drying cycle time. Lint build up inside the dryer can also restrict air flow. A back up of hot air will cause the thermostats to cycle off prematurely.It can also cause the the drive motor to over heat, the thermal overloads on the drive motor will kick out and keep the dryer from restarting again until the motor cools off. 90% of the time airflow is the issue, The only other issue could be is that your motor is going and overheating either due to friction, bad belt or overloading of your dryer.
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Usually with a bad belt you'll hear some 'chirping' or sqeeling just like when your belt in your car goes bad, Will it run with no load or does it shut off after 30 minutes with that as well? Usually motor overheating and thermal overload is due to airflow issues I've covered or increased effort and load on the motor trying to spin the drum. That can be due to a dirty gummed up bearing roller drum assembly; http://www.partstore.com/Part/Maytag/May...
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I have never cleaned the vent since moving into the house. I just recently noticed that the vent is going into the attic. I suppose this is a big no no....I do see an exterior vent on the house. Is this an easy hookup? thanks for the quick response. I appreciate it.
My Maytag LSG7800AAW (combo) dryer started making a burnt rubber smell last week and I assumed the belt was wearing out.
Today the dryer ran for a couple of seconds and then stopped. I pushed the start button again and it just made a buzzing noise for a few seconds then the noise stopped and that was that.
I tried the start button a few more times and then I heard a small "pop" and now there is no noise at all when I push the start button.
This was followed up by a burnt smell.
I am familiar with the various parts of my dryer but don't know where to start to look. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
I cleaned the vent and took out a lot of lint. Same problem is happening. Shuts off after 20-30min and the start button makes a buzz noise if I try to start the dryer again, so I have to wait. Any other ideas? Thanks.
I've made a new observation. I held in the "safety" button while the door is open and pressed the start button and the tumbler seemed like it had a hard time starting up. It did start and I let it run w/out clothes. It ran for 40min and then stopped before the cycle was finished. Maybe a belt issue here too???
Airflow is good inside and out side and the vent is also clean. Is there anything else that it could be?
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