Fading picture rear

SOURCE: Tv color fading...

change the concergence stks

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SOURCE: Picture

Faded pictures it is caused by leaky or short capacitor it could also be power supply problem causing the optic engine and light not to work correctly, or you could have a bad DM board, or a bad light engine sounds like a bad DM board find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.

If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.

Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:

here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:


and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:

Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:



And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:


Hope it may help you; Regards;
VOTIT

SOURCE: The picture on my Mitsubishi ws-55315 fades away

It could be oxidized contacts in the lamp housing connector. Remove the lamp housing as you would to change the lamp (follow directions in the user's manual regarding proper cool-down first!) and check the metal contact pins or blades. If they are dull or dirty, polish them with a white pencil eraser (usually the kind found on a mechanical pencil works well). Also inspect the connections to the lamp itself. If it appears they are loose or oxidized, you will need to put on a pair of clean vinyl food handler's gloves and carefully open the lamp assembly and clean them. Reinstall the lamp assembly. Do not at any time touch the bulb with bare fingers - skin oil will ruin it!

The lamp connector is the most likely spot for intermittent problems since it is high current and high temperature. It is also possible that a solder connection on the power supply board section that drives the lamp is showing the effects of thermal fatigue (cracking and oxidizing), but you would probably see much more erratic behavior, including cutout and the flashing lamp error light in that case.

It is also possible the lamp filament is on its last legs and the vibration is knocking off loose material that reduces the light output. If that is the case, there will be gray particles visible in the lamp capsule. I've seen this with a dim tabletop projector that suddenly got considerably brighter when it was picked up and turned over while it was running.

SOURCE: This is a model #

since its so old you really only chance is to replace the bulb in the machine . also you may have to replace each color board here is a link to the bulbs and the three colored boards http://www.google.com/search?q=Mitsubishi+WS-65809+bulb&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#sclient=psy&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=2uY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial&biw=1280&bih=647&tbs=shop:1&q=Mitsubishi+WS-65809&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=d57722a22572de1d

SOURCE: We have a Mitsubishi VS-50VA2 projection tv. The

you need to clean the dust off lamps and the guns, if you don't know how. i can walk you thru it. but i would suggest having a repair shop do a full cleaning.