SOURCE: panasonic 1100W high power
It may have a blown fuse or - assuming yours is a model NN-H965 - a defective inverter. The fuse is generally located on the bottom of the chassis of the microwave. You have to remove the outer cover on a counter top model - or the front panel assembly on an over-the-range model. There are several reasons why it may blow. If the fuse is loose in the holder, the fuse and the holder should both be replaced. If - with the microwave disconnected from the wall - you can easily turn the fuse with your fingers while it's in the holder, then it's too loose. What happens is the loose connection generates too much heat, causing it to melt internally. If so, you'll usually see a ball of solder at a point where the cap meets the body of the fuse. If the fuse blows as soon as you plug the oven in the wall, or when you open the door, the problem is likely with the door switches. You can find my files "doorsw.txt" and "safety'txt" via Google. They give you the safety warnings and cover the diagnosis and replacement of the door switches. If the fuse blows as soon as you hit START, then it's likely that you have a shorted high-voltage capacitor. If the fuse blows a few seconds after you hit START, then it's likely that you have an overheating / shorting high-voltage transformer. While an inverter (switched-mode power supply) is more efficient from a power consumption standpoint, it is more complex, thus more statistically prone to fail. These should only be examined and worked on by someone who has the necessary technical qualifications. Seriously. Often the machine-soldered connections in a microwave inverter are too weak, so they eventually fail, especially if heat is high in the area. They sometimes fail catastrophically. When not catastrophically damaged, you may hear clicking and may smell an electrical odor, which is sometimes obscured by the cooling fan. Some manufacturers do not encourage or assist technicians to repair microwave inverters. They offer the inverter as a whole assembly. But sometimes that is actually cheaper than the time and labor required to fix the old one. If a technician is willing and able to troubleshoot and repair the inverter to component level, it will may be expensive, but may be worth it, especially if he or she will resolder and reinforce connections as needed as part of a thorough repair. That could easily make your inverter beter than a new one! You might be able to get some verbal estimates if you call Panasonic-authorized repair shops and ask then specifically about inverter repair and inverter replacement costs for your model number. Be safe!
SOURCE: Samsung Microwave model # SMH7178STD just stopped working.
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find Samsung-specific parts here: http://www.samsungparts.com/search/search.asp
SOURCE: GE JES1344SK01 countertop microwave, no power
A microwave can be dead
for many reasons.
It
may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the
floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If it goes dead for a
while during or after cooking
then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing
the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it
closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When
checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat,
that should read
open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If the cavity thermostat
needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the
wall, in which case you can download GE
owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few
seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing
high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open
or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or
random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a
continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse,
then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
There
should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very
helpful
when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams by entering your full
model number here. Once you have the part numbers, though, I would suggest ordering parts here at a much lower cost.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Microwave LG LMV1630 st is totally dead after power outage
yes it s a large ceramic fuse and you have to remove the outer cover to access this. it will be on the top of the M/wave frame either front L or front right. Cost is about $40.00
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