Solenoid diagram I need to turn t-stat on and off for the compressor and fan to run. Then it pull down to -7 but then never restarts. I try to do it again and i see the solenoid pulling in put nothing happens. What function does that 4 wire solenoid have just under the t-stat on front panel?

Are you sure its the condenser fan? The fan is attached to the compressor power and wont run unless the compressor is running. On the other hand the fans inside the cooler will run 24/7 and are designed for continuous duty. If someone has worked on the compressor wiring you may have to re establish the wiring following the wiring diagram. I have seen condenser fans wired in hot areas to run continuously to attempt to cool down a hot compressor or compensate for a worn out or damaged condenser that doesn't get rid of the heat from the system. If that is the case a new condensing unit is probably in your future. Hope this helps good luck.

You will need a meter. I wouldn't worry too much about the light unless you realy need it. There is a good chance some moisture has got into the connection and ruined the switch. But if you have no light and no compressor running I would have to check where the main connections are for power to the freezer. If you have power to the receiving end of thempower cord then I would move to the t-stat to see if the contacts are closing when you turn it colder. If they do and you have power through the t-stat then move to the compressor. Pull the little black cover off of the compressor when the power is off for safety reasons, then plug it in and check for incoming power to the compressor. If it is there then you may have a faulty compressor or overload or relay. But that is a slim to nun chance. Probubally the compressor. To check the compressor pull all of the wires off of the compressor remembering where they go( unplug freezer first). Then use the ohm meter and chech across all three terminals. Two terminals will have a low ohm reading 1-5. Then the other will be 5-10 the the last will add up the the others if it woes not then the compressor is shot.

good luck

If you have just turned it on it takes awhile for the fans to come on. The evaporator coil has to get cold about (10 to 20 degrees) and make a klixion fan switch to turn the fans ON.... Is the evaporator coils getting a frost pattern on them??? If not then the system may be low of Freon.. If the coil is completely froze up and you are getting frost back to the compressor..... then you have a bad fan switch or a door switch.... If you have a wiring diagram you can trace out the wiring.... It is usually down by the compressor or control panel... hope this helps.

Start off by cleaning the condenser coils. If you get up on a step ladder or chair look for the radiator in front of a fan. This radiator gets hot when running. If the air flow is stopped by dust or grease in the coils ther freezer will not work properly. Be sure the fan is running also whenever the compressor is running. The next most common problem is that the inside coils are frozen over. Your unit must defrost 3 or 4 times per day. When the door is opened frost accumulates on the inside coils and will eventually cover the coils with ice if your defrost cycle is not working. If the coil freezes over the temperature will go up, the compressor will continue to run and it the temperature will continue to increase. Check the inside coils for ice. If there is ice, you will have to unplug the unit and let the ice thaw completely before restart. If the unit pulls down to 0 after restart, it was probably frozen over. If that is the case you will need to either increase the number of defrost cycles or verify that the defrost cycle is working. Try this and repost if that does not resolve your problems.

When a compressor is burned out it will try to start and then quickly overheat and kick out on the safety. Listen closely to the fans when the compressor tries to start. A bad compressor will pull so many amps that the fans will actually slow down until you hear the click, then the fans will pick up speed again. If this is the case you will need a replacement compressor. Let me know how long it takes to click out when it tries to start.

Hi there, good job in doing maintenance as a place to start as all units need this done. Was the small condenser fan motor running along with the compressor? It has to run also. The refrigerator cold control/thermostat is what controls the temperature. It is working or the system would not be on. It could have lost its desire to maintain the correct temperature. Depending on the age of the unit, will depend on how well the compressor is pumping refrigerant up to the cap tube/ metering device to flood the evaporator with freon to cool the box and freezer down. You will also have the evaporator fan in the freezer that must be on and running, so make sure both fans are on when you here the compressor up and running. There is no way for you to check to freon and compressor valves to see if system pressures are normal as a service tech has to do this. I believe the problem will be in the thermostat control in the box, its not accurate anymore and has lost its ability to maintain the proper temperature. Slowly back off on the control knob until the compressor shuts off, and leave it at that point. Now, open up the refrigerator door and try and pull up a chair and sit and listen for it to come back on line again. Try and time it if possible. Remember where the control was set before you do this, write it down if need be. With the door open, it shouldn't take more than 5 min. at the most for the inside box to be calling for cooling and start up and run.If it does take much longer, the control is not accurate and you can replace it.If you have to turn it to its coldest setting and it is still not cool enough and all of the fans are on, you have either lost some freon a very small leak which I really doubt, or you need a new control/ stat. Take the model, serial, and product number if it has one with you. Unplug the unit and pull the knob off. You should have 2 screws holding it in place and a foot long give or take aluminum probe heading toward the center of the box that is mounted at near the end and a few wires you will need to mark of draw you a picture of. This is important so you don't forget as you will. Get one at a appliance parts house and install in the reverse way. If you would rather wait to take it out until you make sure they wont have to order one, that may be a good idea to. Please keep me posted on all you have checked and the motors I mentioned to check. I don't think it is the defrost stat or timer as the freezer would be warm, so just try and stick to our plan. Get back to me.
Good Luck,
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

You have a restriction in the system or a overcharge.
Recover the system.
Replace the filter/drier.
Pull a deep vacuum.
Recharge according to the nameplate charge.

thermostat is stuck on! set to medium setting and gently tap stat. does it turn off? it was stuck. does it still run? its still stuck. if you feel comfortable find stat and power in and out. disconnect - it has to turn off then. but 99 % of the time its the stat. they fail closed and run 24 -7 or fail open and temps get real hot and they never close and restart compressor . yours appears to have failed closed. sometimes you can firmly twist em max cold to min cold a few times and break the stuck contacts and they'll do ok for a while. try to reset at a little higher or warmer temp when done so its not making and breaking on the same old worn spot again. good luck.

check light inside .on? you got power. check compressor in back on? if no then you probably have a bad stat. open door and look inside for numbered dial. turn max hot to max cold back and forth. if compressor comes on you need a new stat probably. remember only a stat a compressor on these units. if its hot stat should send power to compressor. if power is arriving at compressor and not running then start relay and or start cap are probably bad. but if compressor is running and still no cool then your probably out of freon. unfortunitly these boxes are made with steel tubing in the cabinets. when you move them lots of times the tubing rusts and ruptures. then your all done. new freezer time. they are sealed to the point there are not even a place to apply gages to check charge. you can gently remove power and then stat and jump thermomstat to take it out of equation and if compressor runs you need a new stat. constant power comes in one side of the stat and when the sensing tube is heated it closes the points to the outlet side and puts power to the compressor. there may also be a ground wire usually green be sure to observe which two are power in and power out. usually side by side. good luck

YES GOOD ADVISE . ALWAYS START WITH THE BASICS. IS EVAPORATOR COIL CLEAN AND CLEAR? ALL EVAP FANS RUNNING? DRAIN PAN CLEAR? IS STAT CALLING FOR COOL? IS OUTDOOR COND COIL CLEAN? IS OUTRDOOR FAN RUNNING WITH NO PLAY IN BUSHING? DO RUN AND START CAPS TEST GOOD? DOES CONTACTOR LOOK GOOD? THEN TRY TO CATCH UNIT WHEN TEMP IS ABOVE DESIRED SETTING. FIRST TEST STAT. IS IT OPEN OR CLOSED? IF BOX IS HOT AND ITS OPEN THEN PROBLEM IS STAT. IF STAT IS CLOSED AND OUTDOOR FAN IS NOT RUNNING THEN COMPRESSOR PROBABLY OVERHEATING WHEN FAN QUITS. CHECK FOR VOLTS TO FAN GOT VOLTS? FAN IS BAD. NO VOLTS? TRACK BACK TO SOURCE OF POWER ( CONTACTOR) AN R22 BOX AT 52 PRESS IS NOT TO BAD ON START UP ON A HOT BOX BUT COULD BE HIGH ON 502 408 OR R12 STUFF TYPE OF REF IS DEFINITELY IMPORTANT. GOOD LUCK