How old is your model you have. a weak pump will make the system slower to get to temp even a broken seal can do this. even just a few mil gap can make it do this. if you close the door then re-open it it should be harder to open the door. this is the seal being nice and tight to its fittings.
Testimonial: "Unit is 10 yrs old. Door seals seem to be fine including when trying to re-open."
with the unit on do you hear what would sound like water running round in side ? or does the unit make a ringing sound ? you can also test the units resistance at the plug wile unplugged see how much resistance there is at the pug with no doors open.defrost cycle brings the unit to room temp... unless your room temp is 0c then it would not be this. weak motor or broken pump will keep the unit going all the time even low gas... low gas can happen over time it does leak out as aske before in this reply if there is no running water sound it could be this. there are a few place that will refill the system but it has to have the valve fitted ton the line. does the pump and the element get hot? pump getting hot but not element is one sing there is no flow our uneven flow if half of the vented element gets hot and some times is just warm to touch should be fairly hot. when in good working order.
Room or outside weather is hot. It is normal for the freezer to work harder under these conditions.
Freezer had recently been disconnected for a period of time. Freezer requires 4 hours to cool down completely.
Large amounts of warm or hot food have been stored recently. Warm food will cause the freezer to run more until the desired temperature is reached.
Freezer gasket is dirty, worn, cracked, or poorly fitted. Clean or change gasket. Leaks in the door seal will cause freezer to run longer in order to maintain desired temperature
If the freezer does not get cold the evaporator fan motor might have stopped working. On the back wall of the freezer, normally behind a panel which can be removed, there is a small fan. This fan draws air over the evaporator cooling coils and moves it around inside the freezer. If the freezer does not get cold, the evaporator fan motor should be checked. Often the fan motor will not run when the door is open, activate the door switch for the fan to work. If the evaporator fan motor doesn't run when the freezer is cooling and the door switch is activated, it should be replaced.
If the freezer does not get cold the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. Try rotating the temperature control thermostat all the way from stop to stop and listen for a click. If there is a clicking sound the thermostat is probably good. If not, remove it and check it for continuity. It should have continuity when the freezer is calling for cooling.
If the freezer does not get cold the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will have to do the repair. sorry for the separation but would not let me put it all on
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Freezer Model #EV150NXENOO
This one sounds like the defrost timer is not working and you are not getting a defrost cycle every 6-8 hours (or when needed). Another issue could be that air (moisture) is getting in from a leaky door seal, etc. and causing the freeze up. If you have a sealed system problem where the cooling coils are not uniformly frosted up then the defrost thermostat will not "know" there is an ice condition and therefore not go into defrost mode (same issue if the defrost t-stat is bad). After you have ALL the ice out of the unit it would be a good idea to take the interior rear cover off so you can view the coils. Start the freezer back up and watch over the next 1/2 hour or so to see that the entire coil is frosting up uniformly. If it isn't you may have a plugged system, a leak causing low refrigerant, etc. If over time the coils look uniformly frosted up you may have a defective defrost heating element itself (no heat, no defrost sort of thing). The defrost elements can be checked with a multimeter for continuity if you know how to do that sort of thing. It's hard to know a person's ability by these forums or if they can tackle certain test procedures.
SOURCE: Kenmore Upright Freezer Model 253.9239780 Temp alarm, Temp rising slowly
you have a refrigeration issue partner let her go 16 yrs. is good service you can replace it for 3 to 5 hundred the repair will be that IF you can find someone with the r-12. don't go for a top it off and go deal the food you lose is to expensive for that to be economical.
SOURCE: freezer stops and start
ice cream is always the last to freeze and a temp of minus -10 degrees is usually required to get it to get hard. if you put the ice cream in the door it will be especially tough to freeze. a good thermometor is a good investment as you can observe the temps. usually ten degrees or 20 degrees is what they run. yes they do cycle on and off as long as they hold temps thats good. the outside of the freezer gets warm because the hot compressed refrigerant is spread through piping near its surface giving up its heat of compression . setting the stat to max will freeze the ice cream eventually but utility bill suffers . good luck
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