Ge transmission shaft wobbles

First, a huge thanks for including a video of your problem. I wish all answer seekers would do the same. It helps greatly.

The video helps greatly, but is missing many important parts/areas to help fully diagnose. One thing that I noticed, tho it was a "split second" shot, was the wobble in the agitator, which seemed to wobble/vibrate in greater magnitude than the tub. The agitator should sit firmly on the shaft, and not wobble so much. (if a 2 piece agitator, the smaller finned top section is normal to wobble a little bit more tho).

The roaring noise indicates another problem, most likely a worn tub bearing. I'll include a link to a YouTube video that shows replacement of a tub bearing. Also make sure the 4 short upper rubber "shock-dampening straps" (tubular in shape) are not overstretched or broken from age/use. If so, they need replacement.

The general movement of the tub and motor assembly in your video is within the realm of "normal". But is perhaps on the upper limit of normal movement.

Tub Bearing Replacement part WH2X1198 GE Washer Repair

Put old coupler back on transmission shaft. Can you now turn coupler? You should not be able to. If you can, grooves in coupler are stripped out. Replace coupler. Part # WH49X10042

The agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the transmission shaft.
Too much usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is not agitating.

Hello there:

The first thing to check when your GE washer is not agitating, is the belt. Let me tell you how to check the belt & the clutch with out having to take the washer apart.

The belt: Set the timer in the spin cycle and pull the timer knob to turn the washer on.
If the washer drains the water and then spins the way that it should, this tells you that the motor, belt & clutch are not the reason why your washer won't agitate.
A broken belt could be the reason your washer is not agitating or spinning.

The agitator: After making sure that the belt, motor & clutch are working ok, lets check the agitator.
The agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the transmission shaft.
Too much usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is not agitating.

The clutch: A bad clutch could also be the reason the washer won't agitate or spin. Usually when the clutch is bad the washer will be noisy, like when you have bad brakes on your car.

The transmission: The transmission could be the reason your washer is not agitating. A common problem with the transmission is oil leaking right on top of the motor pulley and the belt.
As you can see, there could be different reasons why your GE washer is not agitating. You just need to keep checking each part until you find the problem and replace the part responsible.

Try to move the base of the agitator, if you are able to move it freely then you probably have a stripped coupler which is under the agitator and attaches to the transmission shaft.

These are called "dogs" and they are replaceable and do not cost much. Basically, they keep the agitator locked in position when the shaft moves in an oppisite direction so the agitator can step forward.

They should be fairly simple to remove with a phillips screwdriver or a 1-4 in nut driver. take them to a reputable appliance parts store and they will be able to sell you replacements.

These are made to wear out and be replaced so the agitator itself doesnt wear, which is a whole different story to replace. Left-handed shaft screw. Undo it in a clockwise direction and slide the agitator off the shaft if you find that replacing the dogs does not work.

If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.

Your problem is the agitator coupling is stripped. Very common on your washer. Just pull up from the base of the agitator to release it. Lip your fingers under the bottom and work it from side to side while pulling up. The coupling is the brown plastic piece attached to the transmission shaft. Remove the bolt and oring. If that bolt is rusty or oring damaged get a new one with the new coupling. Sometimes the coupler is real stuck on the shaft. Becareful not to damage the transmission shaft or the threads for the bolt to hold the coupler if you use a gear puller.

There is a plastic coupler piece that goes bad under the agitator. The agitator pulls straight off with a little oooompf. The coupler is bolted to transmission shaft sometimes i have to use a puller to remove coupler as its seized to trans shaft PLEASE rate my help as solved as it darn good

There may be nothing wrong with the splie/gearbox shaft. At the top of the agitator on the inside is a brass "dog" That may be worn and you will need to replace it.