Does not cool on either ac or gas. there is green fluid to right of coils undera 1 ft cyliner tube.

talk with an ac specialist professional
generally 1/4 " is acceptable for distances of up to 10 ft and for longer it would be 3/8 " to 20 ft and possible 1/2" for over 20 ft
It all has to do with the flow restriction of the liquid and if the tube is too small then the evaporator is starved of liquid to convert to gas
At this point I would suggest that the 3/8" line would be more acceptable but as I said , talk with the professionals as to the on site situation

The thermostat has a metal tube that lays against the cooling coils. This tube is filled with a gas that operates a switch to control when the compressor runs. If the tube loses that gas from a leak, you get the result you have now. Replace the thermostat and you're problem will be solved.

the damage will be a punctured condenser for the ac system
the green oil is the compressor oil that is circulated with the gas
you will not see the gas as it evaporates as soon as it hits the air. Best have an accredited ac specialist shop replace the condenser and any other damaged pipe work

Sounds like not enough freon was put back in When you use a torch to heat the tubing a flake from the inside of the tube can travel to the capillary tubes in the evaporator plugging one or more of them. That would cause a very low suction pressure on the test gauges.

I would check the low and high readings with a gauge set first.
Its possible the compressor has failed internally.
If the orifice is plugged up one of the lines should be cold where the freon gas is concentrated.
The fan clutch is working ok, right ?
I'm showing an orifice tube in the front and an expansion valve in the back, so its doubtful both would fail at the same time.

When was the last time you cleaned the evaportor coil and condensor coil???? When its cool outside the condensor if its plugged with dirty can mantain the right condensor Head Pressure by useing the cool outside air when it has to run with 80 to 100 degree air it can't get the head pressure with in range to cool the freon. I would clean the condensor coil.......

First off - the 'rule of thumb' is 600' per ton of Air Conditioning. In other words your old unit is a 2 ton unit. So - 2 tons x 600' = 1200'. As you can see if you install the 2.5 ton unit - you will be installing a AC that 'could' cool a 1500 sq ft house (2.5 x 600' =1500 sq ft.). Slightly more than what you need; and the 3.5 ton unit is 'way to big,' (3.5 x 600' = 2100 sq ft.).

Note: fyi - many in the AC business will sometimes refer to tonnage in btu's, i.e. 1 ton = 12000 btu - hence a '2 ton unit' can also be referred to as a 24000 btu unit and vice versa.

So... from the above - you can easily see that "2 tons" of Air conditioning is what is required to cool the 'average' home of 1100 sq ft. "roughly speaking."

Note: it is always best to have a professional 'size' your cooling/heating needs.

One of your questions was could you 'mix tonnage?'

The answer is 'usually you don't mix the tonnage of your outside/inside units.' However, professionals sometimes do (mix the tonnage) in certain situations, and installing a 2.5 ton outside unit with an existing 2 ton inside unit is often done, however, there are some 'tech issues' here and - I would "again" recommend that you call a Service Tech to help you with the sizing/mixing of your cooling/heating needs.

hope this has helped

The capillary tubes are your metering device, without those, and the length of the tubes are determined by the design of the unit and tonnage.
On bigger units we use expansion valves to do the same job,

Your AC cooling efficiency is low when he ambient temperature is high and naturally it cools well when the outside temperature drops.

Please remove the filter on the grill and try to clean it under the tap water and after removing all the dust fix it back to the unit. This would increase the cooling efficiency of the unit.

Your AC is also five years old. Please avoid frequent opening of doors or windows.

Ensure that the exhaust fan and the blower of your unit are functioning normal.

The technician might not have done a proper job in fixing the area where the refrigerant would have leaked out. Please check the refrigerant pressure to ensure that no further refrigerant leak has taken place. Or even servicing your unit he would have punchered the tubes resulting in very slow leak of refrigerant resulting in no cooling or less cooling. It takes around a month to feel the pinch of it and the refrigerant. One fine morning after sometime the unit will run and it would start throwing hot air instead of cool breeze!

1. Disconnect AC Magneto Coupler. (Located on right side of sled under the black 2" cooling line)
2. Connect meter. OHM x 1

White/Red - White/Green
189 - 231 OHM at 20 degree C (68 degrees F)

Charge Coil Resistance
White - White
.36 - .44 OHM 20 degree C (68 degrees F)

If out of spec replace.