HOW DO YU GET THE SPNNER NUT KENMORE 90 SERIES WASHER? I DO NOT HAVE A SPANNER WRENCH.

Remove the agitator, you need a spanner wrench to remove the nut holding the spin tub down, then it will lift out. You will need a new tub donut seal that fits into the outer washtub, check for corrosion on the support tube, if it is corroded and not smooth, it will likely leak with the new seal.

If you take it slow and easy, there isn't a problem. These machines are relatively to repair.

First, see the Sears Parts Manual for your washer:\

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24822200&pathTaken=partSearch

Next, see the following:


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

See the section on removing the agitator(s) and the tub.
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

Also, see the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for topload, direct driive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Then see the following illustrated description:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=6b1146624f61fdea7417003c1fca58df

NOTE:

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about

$9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it

should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

Also see the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

This assumes that you have a basic Sears / Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washer.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

It sounds as if your brake shoes are worn / damaged.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


I'd pull the drive tube and check the springs, shoes and plastic cam that hooks onto the clutch spring.

Although Sears sells a complete drive tube assembly, you can probably get only the parts you need (shoes) from Whirlpool.

Assuming that you have a basic Whirlpool / Kenmore top load direct drive washer (prefix 110) see the following Sears Parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22032100

Following is an illustrated description of how to pull the agitators, pump, transmission and tub.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=3c7e8512ce834388040aec95dcdb0a56

NOTE:

A number of the diagnostics and repair procedures for these washers require you to remove the agitator(s).

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This assume that it is a basic top load, direct drive (no belt) washer

If the washer has never been taken apart, there are a number of places that a whining noise could come from.

The first thing I'd do is to completely tear the washer down and give the tub, agitators etc. a good cleaning. After 24 years, it probably needs it.

Following is a description of how to take it apart. (It's not as difficult as it looks).

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

Things to check are the clutch linings for wear, the Motor coupler, (Probably a good idea to replace it while you have the machine apart as these are designed to wear), and, if you don't mind being a bit messy, the plastic pieces in the transmission itself.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Following are the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for their top load, direct drive washers. The first one has a good diagnostics section as well as a description of how the transmission works.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

To remove the tub, you'll have to remove the agitator(s), cabinet, the spanner nut and drive block.

See the following illustrated guide. You don't have to pull the pump, motor or transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=bce33cd8b32f440a0adb6e8170d95aea

You also don't have to buy a special spanner wrench. I've used a short (10") pipe wrench hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and by tapping the handle of the wrench, the nut should come loose.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up.

Make sure that the tabs on the drive tube align with the slots in the drive block when putting the washer back together.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If everything else is working, I'd check the hoses to and from the pump and the pump itself.

Following is an explanation of how to remove the cabinet and pump from the motor.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Pull the hoses off the pump and check for obstructions.

Check inside the pump for any blockage and be sure that the impellers turn.

If necessary, pull the tub and check the discharge hole leading to the pump itself.

You don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. A 10" pipe wrench hooked onto one of the nut tabs and a short smack with a hammer on the wrench handle usually loosens the nut.

Don't directly hit the soft metal basket tub block. Put a short piece of wood under it and hit the wood up with the hammer.

Once you have the console open and the cabinet removed, take off your tub ring (the white plastic cover over basket) and you agitator. Unfortuneately, you're right there is a special tool for removing the 4 notched nut. I would check with my local appliance part store or order it from the manufactures web site. I belive they call it a spanner wrench. After that, your basket will lift out.