How to solder in a capacitor - Panasonic DMR-E85H DVD Recorder

likely a mainboard or power supply capacitor issue.
if you have the soldering skills fix it, otherwise time to replace the TV.
If you can de-solder and solder in new capacitors make sure you are using high quality capacitors be very causious of capacitors purchased from auction sites.

Sir the problem of your unit is the vertical section of your tv, first try to tap the side of your tv if the tv reacts there is a cold solder in the vertical section specially in the IC if you remove the cover of your unit, but be sure to unplug it first try to observe the solder part of the pcb look for this cold solder or loosed solder.


look for this sign. To fix this you should resolder it using soldering iron, soldering lead, desoldering pump. And also bulging capacitor is the cause of this fault try to look for this capacitor, this bad capacitor is producing a low and unfiltered dc output that causes your unit to malfunction, replace this bad capacitor with the same type and observe polarity.

This is the bulging capacitor, hope this help good day and best regards.

For the life of me I cannot think where a single lone transistor, would be used on the motherboard of a desktop computer.

Electrolytic Capacitors, Solid Capacitors, (Polymer usually), Choke Coils, Integrated Circuits, Diodes, etc, but not transistors.

I believe your reference is to an Electrolytic Capacitor.
A Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

But, the answer is yes in both cases.
Transistor, or Electrolytic Capacitor.

1) http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

2) http://www.capacitorlab.com/replacing-motherboard-capacitors-howto/index.htm

3) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

In link 3 above you can see the difference between an Axial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor, and a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

Look at the second photo down on the right.
The Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor has both leads coming out of the bottom.

Basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor:

Essentially it is a small aluminum can filled with three strips, and capped off with a flat aluminum disk on top, (Vent Cover), and a flat rubber disk on the bottom. (Bung)

The case is like a Coca-Cola can open at the top, and bottom.
The top is capped off with a flat, thin, aluminum disk that has a K or X etched part way into it.
The bottom is a synthetic rubber flat disk called the Bung.

The first strip is a thin foil metal strip. It is the Conducting Strip.
It has a lead (Wire) attached to it, and this lead is the Positive lead.

The second strip is also metal foil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
It is the Non-Conducting strip.
The Negative lead is attached to it.

The last strip is of a paper-like substance, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The paper-like strip is placed in-between the two metal foil strips, and all three are rolled up tightly, then inserted down into the aluminum can case.
The two leads, Positive and Negative, are inserted down through the synthetic rubber Bung.

When an Electrolytic Capacitor goes bad, one of two things happen with the Electrolytic Paste.
One it dries up.
or
Two it creates a gas.

The gas created is Hydrogen Gas. The gas expands, and eventually pushes Electrolytic Paste out of the capacitor.

The top vent cover's etched shape, K or X, breaks open, and paste oozes out,
and/or
one side of the rubber Bung disk pushes down, and out, and paste oozes out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

Capacitors are rated in Voltage, and Capacitance.

How much Voltage is the MAXIMUM they can use, and what the maximum capacitance rating is for them.
Capacitance, for the size of capacitors used on a desktop computers motherboard, are rated in MicroFarads. uf

The Voltage and Microfarad's are marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.
It may be plainly stated, (Printed/Stamped), or in a manufacturer's code.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/164

I lay the motherboard upside down on my lap. I then use a clean, well tinned soldering iron, (50 Watt or less), to melt a solder joint on one lead of the capacitor.

I have solder wick ready, and waiting to 'soak' up the solder as soon as it melts.
(Solder Wick = Soldering Braid. A bunch of thin copper wires woven into a braid )
You are just trying to remove as much excess solder as you can.

I prefer Soldering Braid (Solder Wick) over a Desoldering Tool. (Solder S-ucker Tool)

A tip of the soldering braid is laid over the solder joint, (Half a fingernail width), so that the braid covers the entire solder joint.
Then the soldering iron tip is laid on the soldering wick, right above the solder to be removed.
When the solder melts, and the braid soaks it up, the braid is quickly removed.

The small length of braid can only be used so many times. I cut the solder soaked area off after using it one time, and use a fresh area when going to remove some more solder.

You aren't going to remove all of the solder in the solder joint. Just enough so that when the solder joint is heated again, it won't flow back into your way when trying to remove the capacitor.

The thin, tiny copper strips going along the motherboard are Circuit Traces.
If you linger too long with the soldering iron, you can burn a circuit trace, and lift it right off of the motherboard, rendering it useless.

You can also heat the circuit trace area where the solder joint is, too much, and this will cause the circuit trace to Not accept solder anymore. (It is 'burned')
{The copper circuit trace is overheated, and will not 'tin' anymore. If it doesn't accept solder we have a problem, Houston}

You are just trying to heat the solder joint enough to remove some of the solder.

Melt the solder on the other lead, and remove as much excess solder as you can with the soldering wick.

Lay the motherboard turned over on your lap, so the bottom side is facing up and the capacitor leads are facing up.
Hold onto the capacitor with your fingers, and thumb, on the top side of the motherboard.

Use the front of your fingers, and the side of your thumb for a fulcrum, with the tips of your fingers, and thumb applying pressure against the capacitor. (Pressure = Gently prying the capacitor away from the motherboard)

Heat the remaining solder on one lead of the capacitor until it melts, and ease THAT lead out of the motherboard a LITTLE. It will only go so far as the other lead is still soldered in.

Now go to the other lead, and melt the remaining solder. Pull it up, and out of the motherboard a little.
Keep alternating back, and forth until one by one, the leads come up out of the motherboard.

The solder joint area on the circuit trace, where the capacitor lead was removed from, (Essentially a copper ring around a hole in the motherboard) needs to be cleaned, and re-tinned with solder.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol, and a small solder flux, and acid brush, to start cleaning the circuit trace area around the motherboard hole.

[ CAUTION!
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE, and burns colorless.
Use in a Well ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present ]

This helps to remove residue. I then carefully brush the circuit trace area around the hole with steel wool.
Follow with a light tinning on this area.

[ Tinning: Solder is applied in a light coat ]

NOTE*
A capacitor has a Positive lead ( + ), and a Negative lead. ( - )
The Negative lead is the one marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.

When you remove the bad capacitor, make SURE you know which hole is for the Positive lead.
If you put the leads back into the wrong holes with the new capacitor, the capacitor will explode when you fire the motherboard up. (Turn the computer on)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

If it is a transistor we are 'talking' about the procedure above still applies. IF you were going to keep the transistor, you would use a Heatsink on it's leads on the Top side of the motherboard, close to the transistor itself.

For additional questions please post in a Comment. (Believe upper right of your page. Our website is undergoing improvement changes)

Regards,
joecoolvette

It in the power supply you have to open it up take the back cover off. where the power cord goes in that the power supply look for blow Capacitors and Cap if they have some black burn mark or swoell it needs to be replace. You cannot just pull capacitors out. First you need a soldering iron, some solder wick and some solder resin. Turn the board over and with your wick and iron remove the solder from the legs of the capacitor being careful not to break the pad of the board. Once the solder is removed you can safely pull the bad capacitor out and slide the new capacitor in. Very important that you match the marking on the board with the marking on the capacitor. Once the capacitor is in, dab a little solder resin to the legs and the board. Now you can apply your fresh solder. Cut the legs down and you are done. Good luck to you.

Thanks for asking and trust our experience on Fix ya.
Normally we use a solder wick or special extractor to remove the solder. Sorry to tell you something that may confuse you, but there are several things you need to know before removing the capacitors. As the position of polarity, positive and negative terminals, be careful not damage electronic driving tracks, you should not leave any residual solder on the board. You can do it!, But be careful and calm doing it. I wish you luck, and let me know as it turned out your first job in electronics. Thank you for visiting fix ya!.

Providing a solution regarding replacing Electrolytic Capacitors on a Motherboard.
Low voltage, low capacitance.

(Not for a Power Supply)


This is not regarding the newer motherboard's that use Solid Capacitors.
This is regarding Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

First look at the manufacturer's identifying marks on the capacitor. The Capacitance, (Microfarad), and Voltage is not always shown.

This link will help in that regard,

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

Also look at the physical size in regards to the outer diameter of the capacitor, (How big around it is), and the height. (How tall it is)
You can't put an elephant into a gunny sack.

This is one place to procure Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. (There are lots of places online. Probably VERY, very few, in your local area. JMHO)

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw?Keyword=radial+aluminum+electrolytic+capacitor&FS=True

Need help in finding a particular radial aluminum electrolytic capacitor, or help in navigating the website above, please post in a Comment.

De-soldering/Soldering:

I recommend a soldering iron of no more than 50 Watts. No.2 Chisel tip. Have a soldering iron stand.
Have a damp sponge nearby for regularly cleaning the soldering iron tip, if the soldering iron stand does not have one in the base.

Rosin core solder. I use .055, but you can use .030 if that's all that is available. (Diameter of solder in thousandths)
Use in a WELL ventilated area. Have a fan pushing air over your shoulder.

Use Solder Wick (Desoldering Braid) for desoldering. I can't say enough bad things about a Vacuum Desoldering Tool)
(Solder S u c k e r Tool. {Another name, not a reference to being 'cute')

Use an ESD wrist strap. (Electro Static Discharge) Average cost is around $3 to $8, and will save your motherboard from static shock.
Computer case on the table you're working on, connect the alligator clip of the ESD wrist strap to the metal frame, of the empty desktop computer case.
If this is in reference to a laptop motherboard, find a good ground source to connect that alligator clip to.

Mark the leads of the capacitor/s you wish to remove, on the bottom of the motherboard. Make a mark nearby on the motherboard.

Observe the markings on the capacitor. A capacitor has a Positive lead, and a Negative lead. You DON'T want to mix them up as you install the new capacitor. Most of the time the Negative lead is marked with a negative symbol. ( - )
{NOTE*
IF you install a capacitor's leads backwards, it will explode, when you provide power to the computer, and/or power up the computer}


Motherboard upside down, on the top of the motherboard, hold the capacitor with your fingers, and thumb. As you apply heat to each lead of the capacitor, you are going to ease each lead out a little at a time.

You DON'T want excessive heat going to the motherboard. This can render the copper circuit trace useless. It will burn, and will not take solder tinning again.
Excessive heat can also lift the circuit trace right off of the motherboard.

[ Circuit Trace. Also known as Signal Trace:
A motherboard is made up of layers that are laminated together.

For simplification let me state that a copper sheet is laminated on the top side.
There is a masking agent applied to the copper sheet, then acid is used to wash away the area that is not needed.
{Again another simplification as there are many other methods used}

Areas that may be left are large copper areas, that have what looks to be flat, thin copper wires, connecting to them ]

Heat one lead's solder connection just enough that the solder starts to melt, while applying pressure on the body of the capacitor, to draw against THAT lead.
The lead will only come up so far.
This is okay.

Now go to the other lead, and do the same. Ease it up so far.
Let the solder cool for a moment, and the motherboard.
Now go back, and continue easing the leads up, until they come up, and out.

Clean the circuit trace area the capacitor lead came out of. There will be a residue left behind, and this needs to be removed.
I use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean off the residue. (Rubbing alcohol)

NOTE*
Make sure the soldering iron is unplugged, and well away from the motherboard.
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE!

Use an old toothbrush with the alcohol.

If all of the solder came off of the circuit trace area, where the capacitor lead was soldered to, (Hole and copper circuit trace area around the hole), you will have to lightly re-tin the area.
Tinning is to apply a thin coat of solder.

If the capacitor's leads are not pre-tinned, (Most are however), you need to tin them.
You may find that the tinning has covered the hole for the capacitor lead.
Not to worry.
Place the leads against the holes from the top side of the motherboard. As you heat the tinned area, the leads will poke up through the holes.

If you find this is not to your liking, you can use a solder pick to GENTLY ease the hole open.
I don't like this method, because there is a chance the solder pick's sides will grab the soft copper circuit trace going around the hole, and cause irreparable damage.

Once the capacitor's leads are in place, apply solder correctly to each lead at the circuit trace area.
Hold the capacitor from moving until the solder has cooled.

You may find this helpful,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

Regards,
joecoolvette

First you have to find replcament capacitors from the TV manufacturer on the internet. then you learn how to disassemble your TV and power supply, to use screw drivers and soldering iron. Then you can replace any capacitors. Radio Shack salesmen can help technically.

The capacitors are remove by melting the solder until it becomes soft and if you use solder braid it's much easier. The kind of solder to use should be lead free or just ask for leaded 63/37 solder wire. radio shack carries it.
I would suggest to google how to solder to have an idea before you replace the capacitors.
Let me know if you require further assistance.

No,around $50-75 by buy a soldering iron,solders and all those new capacitors replacement.U must know basic electronic,and soldering to do the capacitors replacement.You could buy capacitors many plaaces like ur local Radio Shack,Amazon.com or Ebay.com.

The hum is likely due to either a failed capacitor in the subwoofer power supply or as it was for me, a cold solder joint on the capacitor. The fix is simple, but does require soldering. Unplug the subwoofer and set it on a good working surface. Remove the screws holding the back panel to the cabinet. These screws are the ones near the edge of the panel. Take off the panel by pulling back on it, reach into the subwoofer and carefully unplug the red and black speaker leads noting which one goes to each connector. Orient the panel with the electronics side up and the power cord at the lower right of the panel. Just to the left of where the power cord is soldered to the board is a large cylindrical capacitor. It is by far the largest cylidrical component on the board. This capacitor filters the hum made by the step down transformer in the power supply. If the capacitor is not working the subwoofer hums. The capacitor is soldered to the back of the electronics board. We had to reach in with a modified soldering iron to remove the capacitor. Before removing the capacitor check the orientation, there is a plus and minus, make sure it goes back in the same way. After removing the capacitor inspect the capacitor leads to see if they were both soldered correctly. If one of the leads is not silver the most likely cause is a cold solder and the fix is to simply clean up the capacitor leads by scraping off anything that is not silver, tinning the capacitor leads and re-soldering it to the board. If the leads look like they had a good solder, test the capacitor by using an ohm meter (used to test resistance) between the capacitor leads. The meter should show low resitance and as the capacitor charges the resitance should go up to infinite. If the meter does not behave this way while testing the capacitor, replace the capacitor. Bring the old capacitor with you to the electronics part store to make sure you get one that has the same electrical properties as the one you are replacing. The form of the capacitor might be different but as long as it is has the right electrical properties it will work. - and don't foget to make sure the polarity is correct when you solder it in!