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It probably has a flame failure device..
This is to cut off the gas if the flame goes out..
When you light the burner, the flame heats a sensor which keeps the gas on, if this is faulty, the gas will go out.
You have what we call a flame safe device fitted to the burner, (thermocouple lead), have you checked to make sure your flame on the burner is touching the tip of the "probe" on t'couple, if it isn't make sure that the ports on the burner are clear. If this does not solve problem then the thermocouple needs replacing by a Gas Safe engineer.
I have the Miele km342g cooktop. The ignition would continue firing intermittently after the burner was lit - click, click, click. Drove us crazy for years and we cursed the unit every time we used it. We assumed it was sensing unburned fumes and so we bought a small fan to "whisk" the gas fumes away. etc. etc. I finally figured out what a simple little thing it was. To start the burner, you turn the knob counter-clockwise. Therefore, once the burner is lit it's intuitive to turn the burner down by turning it clockwise. But in order to turn the burner down, you have to continue turning it counter-clockwise - or, "counter-intuitive". Once we figured that out, we haven't had a problem since.
Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.
Does the burner attempt to re-ignite after it goes out? If so, it's probably the therocouple. If not, it could be the burner valve. Be sure the caps and rings are correctly seated on the burners and be sure to firmly press the burner knob down to start the flame.
Make sure the little tiny flash holes are open. They allow a little bit of gas to seep out so the igniter can light the burner. If you can light the burners with a match, check those holes. If yours are the "sealed" type burners, make sure they are not a half a turn out (180° around)
Hi If the burner is not burning hot, and there is a low flame then this is often a pressure regulator problem. Most often the regulator is found where the gas line enters the gas range. I have a picture of what the flame characteristics should look like.If the igniter on different burner doesn’t work, and there is no spark at that burner then you will have to check the same items as mentioned above. This is a typical spark module wire diagram. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance. Thanks Rylee
Hello
Check the air mixture on that one and make sure is like the other ones, it should be a slide sleeve that rotates to adjust the air, and make sure that, no bigfire yellow tips when switch is on high.
Hope this help
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY
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