Blade stops and motor keeps running acts like a belt or something is slipping when i try to cut wood

The nut that holds the blade on May gave come loose. Or motor is shot

I'm not sure if you have a chop saw or circular saw. Either way, it sounds like the nut and washer are not tight enough to hold the blade. If you have a circular saw clockwise will tighten the nut and washer onto the blade and hold it in place. Most chop saws are a left hand thread and then you would turn the nut counter clockwise to hold the blade tighter. The blade wobbles because it is not tight.

Does the motor stay running when the blade stops? If so the belt could be slack if belt driven or the gear teeth could be worn. If motor stops it could be you are putting too much pressure on the saw and the wood is dense or you have an armature fault.

Sounds like something is loose, maybe stretched belt or loose spring. This will be tough to diagnose with seeing the unit. Can you post pictures of belt drive on unit? Or maybe post a video of unit doing this problem? In the meantime, try turning unit off without disengaging pto, should keep belt from slipping off. Good luck and happy wrenching!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/layne_0fccff498c319c32

Try to install new blades. I've used 201 Haltbar blades in cutting pine before. Please get the right TPI too. But you may want to check the belt if it's slipping and try a slower feed rate.

Hi, W/D here.
Unplug the saw first. Raise the plastic around the blade on the table and look first for material around the arbor, particularly slivers of wood. These can sometimes act as a "brake" and cause the machine to rotate slower. Clean out all sawdust and wood slivers. You can get most of it with a vacuum. While you have access to the arbor, rotate the arbor by hand, feeling for excessive resistance. You can lubricate the arbor with a light machine oil. Look at the belt, and test the tension by squeezing the belt toward the other side, in the middle between the pulley on the motor and the pulley on the arbor. It should squeeze in (deflect) about an inch or so, and be tight in it's position. If the quality of the belt is not up to par; if you feel that it is stretched, or is cracked or otherwise deteriorated, replace it. You can get replacement belts from auto parts stores, at a significantly lower price than ordering through Sears. They'll match you up. While the belt is off, blow the windings of the motor out with compressed air. Sawdust infiltrated into the motor can also cause the motor to run slower. Lastly, take a very close look at the blade. A dull blade will cut slower, and this is especially noticeable in wetter and harder woods. Examples of wetter wood would include treated lumber; harder woods would include species like oak. If the blade is dull, have it sharpened, or replace it.
Best regards, --W/D--

Sounds like it but does it have a capacitor (start/run)--what model/type motor is it? and go from there.

This could have many causes...depending on the model of saw, the wood being cut, the blade you're using, etc. etc.
Check that the blade is correctly installed, up to tension, and sharp. Make sure the wheels run smoothly on their on, and under power. Check the horsepower of the motor, and make sure to keep the feed rate down within the motor's capacity. Finally, don't twist the work being cut to a smaller radius than the size blade will handle, or you will bind the blade in the cut.
If you are cutting wood with pitch or grain that is likely to be under tension, perhaps you need to insert a wedge into the cut to prevent the work from pinching the blade as it continues the cut.
I hope that leads to a solution. Sometimes all you can do is feed slowly and be patient...

Open the side cover and inspect the blade path and blade tension. Rotate the blade by hand looking for interference at any point. Make sure the drive pulley is not slipping on the shaft and that the belt is not loose or badly worn. Make sure the two large drums that carry the blade turn easily (dry bearing?). Does the motor slow down? Are the drum rim surfaces (rubber) in good shape? If the tension device is at limit, but not tightening the blade, the blade may be too long.

Make sure you're using a sharp blade, and try not to feed to fast for the motor to keep up. Make sure the belts are adjusted properly, ie not slipping.
Try not to use too long or light guage an extension cord to plug into, and make sure the power source where you are plugged in has enough amperage to run your motor without starving it for power.
Otherwise, it could just be a limitation of the motor and the hp of that saw. You'll have to be patient and feed slowly, or upgrade to a heavier duty saw.
What you're describing is undoubtedly the bane of many a weekend woodworker, but the alternative doesn't always come cheap.
Best of luck!

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
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