Spin cycle not working on Malber washing machine, it is on a used boat we just bought and it is in Fort Lauderdale but coming to NY soon, boat broker says he cant locate a person to fix the Malber- an

SOURCE: Dryer doesn't dry clothes, doesn't start right after Wash

If the machine is brand new, I imagine all you want to do is check you're using the machine correctly before you claim on the warranty. Trouble is, the design of this machine is so weird, and the instructions so poor that it's easy to get it wrong. So far as I can make out from this distance, you need to have all of: Spin Cancel: Out Half Load: In Cold/Cold: In Hot/Cold: Out Cold water supply: Available Drain Hose: Connected .... and as with most condensing dryers, you need to let it run to the end of its cycle - if you take stuff out without running the final 12 minute cooldown period, everything will come out feeling a bit clammy. If those control settings don't help, try a functional faultfinding approach. To dry properly, the machine needs to do four things at once: 1. Tumble the clothes: You can see whether this is happening or not. From your description, it sounds like this is working. If this isn't right, see if changing control settings works, but then for a new machine make a warranty call. 2. Blow hot air over the clothes: You should be able to hear the fan running, and if you open the door, the air which comes out should be quite warm. If this isn't right, see if changing control settings works, but then for a new machine make a warranty call. 3. Condense the moisture out of the circulating air: If this isn't happening, the clothes don't get any dryer - they just get increasingly hot. Before making a warranty claim, all you need to do with this problem is ensure that the supplies and settings are such that cold water (and only cold water) is getting to the condenser. 4. Pump out the condensate: If you've just washed successfully, this is probably going to be working fine. If not, then you'll start to see the drum slowly filling with water. If this happens, check the filter (p12 of the manual), then get the warranty claim going. Welcome follow-on questions or news on how you get on posted as a comment to this query. A.

SOURCE: washer is jumping extremely only when spinning

I own a Malber WD1000, which is several years old. Recently, I had it transported a couple thousand miles across country, and due to the size of the pickup truck it was in, the machine had to lay on its side for the duration of the trip. Shortly afterward, the machine began making a loud banging noise during the spin cycle. Additionally, the door gasket had a "wrinkled" appearance.

After taking various panels off of the machine, I discovered the culprit. The insides of the machine (drum, etc), are more or less suspended inside the outer housing. This is accomplished by means of a pair of shock absorbers on the bottom, and a pair of large springs on top. This allows the inner workings to shake a little bit during the spin cycles, without transferring the vibrations to your floor. In my unit, one of the upper springs had come loose from the frame. The solution involved tipping the machine on its side, with the top cover off, and pulling the end of the spring back through the mounting hole in the frame, then finding a nut and bolt to occupy the additional space in the hole, so that the spring could not slip back out. Getting the end of the suspension spring properly seated again was no small task, but it solved the problem, and now the washer works just great again.

Long story short, I'd check to see if all the springs are in the proper place.

SOURCE: machine won't run through cycles automaticly

Sounds to me it might be a thermal pause, if your unit is running and then is required to heat up at a certain point and reach a certain tempurature before it advances, the heater is probably not coming on. The unit will therefore not advance.

Sgt 48

SOURCE: Drum does not spin

I had similar problem recently. It turned out the main controller right above the drain hose exit on the back was the problem. I got a new board from MALBER and replaced it myself. It is working now.

SOURCE: Need service for Malber 1000 heating element..

Hi. Mike here. I repair Malbers in the Washington D.C. area. The most likely problem is not the heating element, but the hi-temp (or "brown") thermostat. They cost about $25 and are very simple to install. A "Torx 1.5" screwdriver (asterisk tip) removes two screws, in back, holding top on. Lift off top, and (from the front) see silver-foil-wrapped heating assy. At lower right will be a small philips screw holding a thin wire "hasp" which holds the thermostat in place. Remove screw and hasp (without dropping in machine!), unplug two "quiik-connect" lugs (orange & red wires) and pull out thermostat to the right. New one slips right back in. Replace wires, hasp, phillips screw and top -and you're done! This is 90% sure to fix. The heating element is only about 5% likely.
One last thing ... when re-inserting new thermostat, you'll have to "wrestle" with it a bit, as the tip needs to slip into a tiny (hard to "find") hole. Keep trying, and eventually it'll fit ALL the way in, so the hasp can hold it. To purchase part, call Joel (at Malber): 800-600-8913
Oh yeah, one MORE last thing... That red wire may be burnt a little, or completely burnt in two. Radio Shack and Home Depot sell "crimp-on" lugs (1/4") like these (female). Trim back the wire, crimp a new lug on the end, and push it back onto lower terminal on thermostat. If wire is too short, of course, add a few inches of 16 guage "stranded" (lamp cord). The same stores also sell tubular "crimp-on" wire-connectors (little blue tubes) to join the old and new wires. May God bless.